Zabbs22

Hey everyone ,

I recently did some over due head gaskets on my 68 olds 455 and now I’m fighting to get clean oil out of the thing . I know I’m no longer leaking coolant but EVERYTIME I dump the oil it’s a little milky , not terrible , but not a nice golden color I’d like to see after 100 miles. With that being said when I was taking it apart I did notice very thick white sludge build up on the inside of both valve covers . I replaced both valve covers with new ones but I can’t help but to think that same white sludge is at the bottom of the oil pan mixing with my clean oil.

I’ve been told to just keep running it and dumping the oil and eventually it will burn off but I was thinking of adding rislone engine treatment . Would this help or hurt my cause ?

The odd part about this is when you check the oil on the dipstick the level is perfect and the oil is a perfect gold color . But when you drain it out it’s not .

looking for any advice or tips/tricks to clean out this motor . I’ve changed the oil 4 times now and have driven probably 400 miles .

Motor only has 44,000 miles
coolant level is holding steady
oil level is holding steady
car is not blowing white smoke

Sugar Bear

Keep changing the oil when the oil is hot. Don't do short starts, confirm with a temp gauge that the engine fully reaches temperature and drive it on long runs

Good luck!!!

BangScreech4-4-2

No experience with them, but there are commercially available engine flushes which you can add to your crankcase and run for a bit prior to an oil change. This sounds like just the ticket for your situation.

Koda

High detergent oils, or running a quart of ATF for a while in the mix will clean that out. I have long thought that the indicator will "hold oil" on it, so, while one can get level, to get condition, one needs to pull it, wipe it, reinsert, and pull again. Rislone would work, too.

edzolz

Usually whitish sludge inside of valve covers is due to condensation caused by not running the engine long enough to bring it up to a warm temperature to evaporate the moisture. But it could also be caused by a faulty PCV system, maybe a stuck PCV valve or leaking hose.

Zabbs22

I replaced the pcv when I changed the valve covers . The original “A” code pcv was still in there so I just wen to auto one and bought another duralast A code pcv and stuck it in there . Seems to be working .

Sugar Bear

If the engine still has the original rope type rear main seal which it probably does at 44k miles I'd be hesitant to introduce flushes when there isn't a significant problem that needs to be addressed. Adding some ATF would be as potent as I would go.

Good luck!!!

rocketraider

Change oil and filter, check all fluid levels, then take the car on a 30 to 50 mile run at road speeds. Get everything warmed up.

Check the fluid levels again, then take it on another 30 to 50 mile run at highway speeds. Repeat for several days, keeping close check on fluid levels.

You need to get everything up to normalized temperature so the engine can boil off any moisture and other contaminants that may be in the crankcase. You may notice oil level dropping a little as the engine gets rid of them.

I'd be wary of using an engine flush product too unless you're planning on dropping the oil pan to clean it out after the flush has done its work. Blue Rislone, ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil won't hurt it.

matt69olds

I have noticed the milky crap inside the oil fill tube of many Oldsmobile’s. I’m betting that’s the last part of the engine to reach operating temp, especially on short trips.

Take the car for a long drive on the highway. I bet that cooks whatever moisture remains in the engine.

Olds64

Rotella T4 15W-40 is what I use in both of my Oldsmobiles. It's a high detergent oil made for diesel engines. You can even get a house brand at your local Farm & Home, Tractor Supply, Atwoods, etc.

Zabbs22

I’ve heard of people using that but having to use a zinc additive . ? Also would that be ok to run in the winter ?

BangScreech4-4-2

The zinc (ZDDP) additive is to avoid excessive valvetrain wear in older engines with flat tappet cams. There's no reason why Rotella of the appropriate weight can't be used in winter.

Olds64

Correct. 15W-40 is only marginally more viscous than your standard 10W-30. I use Rotella because I buy it in bulk (my diesel truck is a 10 quart oil change). I've heard of folks using a zinc additive. Snake oil IMHO.

Sugar Bear

In March '22 Shell advised that Rotella T4, T5 & T6 (except Multi-Vehicle 5W-30) has 1200 ppm of ZDDP.

Tedd Thompson

I have used Rotella T4 in almost everything I own with no problems. Works great on anything with sticky lifters...Tedd

Fun71

That’s good information. Thanks for posting.

OLDSter Ralph

Could you post the info ? Someone is going to question it being true.......because "they heard or read somewhere" something different.

Sugar Bear

Ralph,
I emailed Shell tech dept, the #'s were in that email which I no longer have. I found and referred back to the #'s that were in an old post of mine.
Be well,
Jeff

Olds64

Here's some data on Rotella T4 oil, take it with a grain of salt:

http://pqiadata.org/Shell_Rotella_T4_15W40_4192017.html

Truthfully, I don't plan on running any special oil additives in the 455 in my 71 when I reinstall the heads. It just suffered a blown head gasket. I'll just drain/refill the oil and replace the filter.

Zabbs22

If it does in fact have 1200ppm ZDDP that’s enough by itself isn’t it ? What do these flat tapper cams really need ?

OLDSter Ralph

Thank you, this will take care of discussions that come up. They can read it for themself.

matt69olds

If it’s an original high mileage engine, I doubt the cam and lifters will care. They have had decades to establish a good wear pattern, the cam timing is slow and lazy, and the valve springs are more than likely very tired and weak.

If in doubt, use Valvoline VR1 racing oil. It definitely has the zinc for flat tappet cams.

Zabbs22

Engine only has 44k

Zabbs22

I contacted shells tech support and this is the response I got. Thank you for contacting Shell Technical.



Shell Rotella T4 Triple Protection 15W-40 typically contains 1200ppm of zinc. This oil works great on its own for engines with a flat tappet.

Hope this helps.

Tedd Thompson

The zinc content is one reason I use Rotella T4 , but the main reason is the detergent package it contains. If you have sticky lifters, this oil will often clear them up./… Tedd

ELY442

Be careful using those "Engine Flush". I was told it is kerosene. It will wipe off the oil in the cylinders and damage the piston rings.

BangScreech4-4-2

Rather than just accepting a second or third hand story, if one is considering using one of these, a good idea might be to contact (one of the many) manufacturers and find out for sure what's in it.

rocketraider

Most of these flushes contain butyl cellosolve. They work, but they'll dislodge stuff and open up clearances that had heretofore been packed with sludge and cause leaks and loose bearings. All of it ends up in the oil pan where, if enough of it builds up, it blocks the oil pump pickup screen and starves the engine of lubricant. Not a good thing.

Kerosene itself is a very good solvent and cleaner but you don't want bearings etc running on pure kerosene for any length of time. Adding a pint or so to normal oil fill capacity won't destroy anything, but ATF, Mystery Oil or blue Rislone are a safer bet.

BillK

I am going to agree with the others that say you need to go take it for a nice long ride. Depending on where you live I would say 100 miles on the highway would do the trick.

The condensation is somewhat normal when it is really cold out. Most people just never notice it because you are not normally looking under valve covers.

As far as oil goes I know a lot of guys swear by Rotella but with the many "hot rod" type oils that are available now days I would rather use one of those. Rotella is a diesel oil and has a totally different additive package than an oil designed for gas engines. I use the "Driven" brand oils mainly because they are easy for me to get. The Brad Penn / Penngrade oils should be fine too https://penngrade1.com/products/high-performance-oils/