Tjohn8573

I was going to go with the following for my 455 build as suggested on this forum.

Rebuild parts:
Wiseco Pistons PTS537A3
Eagle Rods CRS673503D $510
Federal Mogul Main Bearings 108M
Clevite Rod Bearings CB542P $104
Durabond Cam Bearings 06-B

My builder is suggesting going with Clevite H type rod and main bearings. Ant my reason why I should or shouldn’t.

Thanks Tim!

cutlassefi

Ask him why the H’s. I’m interested to hear his answer.

Tjohn8573

He said that he preferred the H type Bearings because they were more concentric than the P type bearings. He also said something about the main bearings that the federal mogul had a larger oil hole than the Clevite bearing is why he preferred the clevite over the federal mogul.

cutlassefi

He’s half right. The H is more concentric than the P. But the Federal Mogul main only has a 5/8 groove, Clevite has a full groove. Use the Federal Moguls.

Tjohn8573

Thanks Mark! So stay with federal mogul mIn Bearings ...got it. What do you think about the rod bearings then Clevite P type or H type?

thanks

cutlassefi

If you were using stock rods I’d say use the P bearing cuz otherwise they’ll pinch at the parting line. But with the Eagles you can use the H’s cuz that rod doesn’t flex like the stock ones do.

Tjohn8573

Thanks Mark! A couple more questions if you don’t mind? My builder is recommending a get a heat treatment done to my crank say it it will help harden it? Any advice? Also, is there any problem going 20 under in the crank main and rods. Thanks!

cutlassefi

No problem in going .020 under.
How much power do you plan to make because it’s very difficult to heat treat or harden a cast or nodular iron crankshaft effectively. Your builder is showing his lack of knowledge outside the box.
It would be money better spent to internally balance it instead. That’s always a better choice.

Tjohn8573

Thanks Mark I do plan on internally balancing. I’m not building anything crazy. I would like to say 450 to 500hp but more likely 430 to 450 range.

cutlassefi

How do you go from wanting 500 hp to settling for 430? 😎

Tjohn8573

Well if you care to read through below this is my plan so far. Big thing missing is cam which I know you can help with. Trying to keep some originality, want it to be dependable, want to run on pump gas, and want to keep my power brakes with no monkey business.




Hi All. I have a 1968 Cutlass Convert and the original 350 just gave out. I am. Starting a 455 build for a replacement engine. I’m trying to come up with a build plan before I start. Looking for any advice on my plans so far. Any pros cons anything I should change/add.
here are the details I have worked out so far. Need help filling in the gaps as well. Maybe you can give me an idea in horsepower?

1968 Cutlass
4 Speed M20
3.42 Rear Gear
Power Steering and Brakes
4 Core Radiator
Powermaster 9510 Mini XS Torque Starter $207
Would like to run my current W30 OAI setup since I already have it.
Want to run on pump gas. And I want to keep my power steering with no problems or monkey business.

Goal is to keep as much of the stock look as possible with main deviations being the following bolt on items:

Quick Fuel SS 830cfm Carburetor - mech secondaries, electric choke. $661
Edelbrock 2151 Performer Intake Manifold $395
Doug’s D741 Full Length 1 3/4” Ceramic Coated Headers - have full Gardner system now with their turbo mufflers. Would like to run headers through this system. $709
Engine parts the I’m starting with:
1968 .030 455 F Block
Factory manual crank .020
“C” Stock Iron Heads
Original Distributer Ignition System.

Rebuild parts:
Wiseco Pistons PTS537A3
Eagle Rods CRS673503D $510
Federal Mogul Main Bearings 108M
Clevite Rod Bearings CB542P $104
Durabond Cam Bearings 06-B
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers - Not Sure which ones. Would like to use original valve covers, not sure it’s possible.
HV Oil Pump M22FHV - not sure which pickup to go with. Using stock oil pan. $115
Cloyes Timing Chain - 9-3513X9 $83
Cam - not decided looking for suggestions.
Mechanical Fuel Pump High Flow - Holley?
General Gasket Set - Not sure on this.

Any my help or suggestions appreciated. Tim

cutlassefi

With a little head work and the right cam you can make 500 with that combination

Tjohn8573

Thanks again Mark! You are a wealth of knowledge. So my biggest unknown then is the cam and valve train. Any thoughts with my setup what cam and valve train makes sense. Off the the shelf cam custom grind?

cutlassefi

Roller or flat tappet?

Tjohn8573

Im thinking flat tappet unless you have any other advice between the two. The cam is a mystery to me that is why it is the last thing I need to figure out.

cutlassefi

Ok no problem. Roller is three times more anyway.

Tjohn8573

Hey Mark I’m stuck one way or another. I would like to learn more about “what you get” between flat tappet vs. roller cam. It’s not about the cost for me but more what you get for the money. How do they differ regarding the following:

Price - kinda already know about three times as much.
Reliability/dependability
Longevity
Power/hp/torque
Tunability/overall headaches

Kennybill

A roller camshaft is 20 minutes less "heart palpitations" on startup.

cutlassefi

They CAN make more power apples to apples but it depends on the grind as well.
In addition you will need different springs and a button to keep it from walking back and forth.