Balancer Slides on by Hand, Engine Making Noise ?
#1
Balancer Slides on by Hand, Engine Making Noise ?
Ok fresh 400 E block stock rebuild with Crane cam. Engine was a core short block history unknown. Rods serviced, crank polished standard, new pistons, rings, 030 bore, Cloyes timing set, new cam bearings, crank bore alignment checked true. Heads done, new lifters, preload checked. On assembly the balancer slid on all the way by hand which I have never experienced before. I torqued balancer bolt to specs and upon startup I heard a tapping noise that seemed to come from the front of the engine. It increases with speed and not there at Idle but if you goose the throttle you hear it. I removed the balancer today and tried another, same fit....did not run though just checked the fit. Could this be the source of the noise and what is the fix? Locktight or something similar or do I have another problem? Thanks
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; March 13th, 2021 at 06:08 PM.
#6
Is it loose or you are just able to slide it on and off with slight resistance? If there is any resistance it is probably fine as long as it can't wiggle/wobble. You could reassemble it with the appropriate Loctite compound.
This was not uncommon on Buicks in the 70's but I've not seen it on an Olds.
Good luck!!!
This was not uncommon on Buicks in the 70's but I've not seen it on an Olds.
Good luck!!!
#7
The balancer should slide all of the way back to the bottom timing gear. Then the bolt and washer snug it in place without any movement, when torqued correctly. If it still moves, you have a gear thickness issue or a short balancer..
#8
#9
I think all Buick’s have a slip fit balancer. I doubt that you will have any problems. As long as the key way or slot isn’t sloppy, I think you will be fine.
Last edited by matt69olds; March 14th, 2021 at 06:39 PM.
#10
More exploring today, ran the engine without the balancer and I could hear a noise still and still can't really pinpoint for sure. I am able to rock the balancer a slight bit by hand when I push it on the crank, key in place.... So after inspecting plugs, rockers while running I put everything back and started the engine.... the noise seemed almost gone.... So at this point I need to finish the car, paint and assembly, and actually take it down the road. Maybe lifters need a bit more preload.... Thanks for the replies!
#11
#13
If it is tight when torqued, the only issue you might have is the timing mark not lining up with zero degree on the balancer. Find TDC and see if the pointer is on zero, if not re-mark your balancer zero line.
#14
EDITED:
scrap the defective, failed damper. If it doesn't line up any more, it's moved. If it's moved some, it'll keep on moving because the rubber between hub and outer ring isn't bonded any more.
scrap the defective, failed damper. If it doesn't line up any more, it's moved. If it's moved some, it'll keep on moving because the rubber between hub and outer ring isn't bonded any more.
Last edited by Schurkey; March 16th, 2021 at 04:44 PM. Reason: No sense of humor
#15
find tdc and see if the pointer is on zero, if not, scrap the defective, failed damper.
I would really appreciate it if you would not add your comment to my reply, making it look like I said that. I did not mean his dampener was defective, only that the zero might not line up exactly with TDC.
I would really appreciate it if you would not add your comment to my reply, making it look like I said that. I did not mean his dampener was defective, only that the zero might not line up exactly with TDC.
#16
Yes it is fine has not slipped, I also checked it with another balancer to be sure.
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