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usually that ground wire is attached to one of the gas tank support ribs on the bottom side of the trunk floor close to where the tank strap attaches on the front.
Backing up what Joe and Cherokee have said, here it is attached /screwed into the underside of the trunk/floorpan, on the driver side. Looks like it is on one of the ribs.
Backing up what Joe and Cherokee have said, here it is attached /screwed into the underside of the trunk/floorpan, on the driver side. Looks like it is on one of the ribs.
Originally Posted by cherokeepeople
usually that ground wire is attached to one of the gas tank support ribs on the bottom side of the trunk floor close to where the tank strap attaches on the front.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
There's a sheet metal screw that attaches it to the underside of the floorpan. The exact location isn't critical, so long as it makes good electrical contact to ground.
thank you for clarifying that! Really helped out!
Just an update on getting it started: Fuel lines all attached. Now just gotta work on the starter wiring with the HEI and the rest of the engine wiring. Brake lines all attached but it doesnt seem to actually brake. Maybe it needs brake fuel?? Going to check on that as well. As far as the engine i think just wiring it up.
Thank you everyone for all the help so far!! Gettin close to hearing her roar!
Hey everybody. Been slowly making progress on the 69 442. I actually got her started the other week. Used the Remflex exhaust gaskets. Twas a glorious day!
Trying to figure out a couple things before I move on:
I have confirmed the carb is for a 72 olds (7044250)
I'm thinking about trying to sell/trade for the correct 69 442 carb (7029251).
1)Do you think it is worth it?
Next questions. How do I find these parts?
2) choke stove pipe nut?
3) What aluminum radiator would you recommend? Going to to keep the original but want to install a new lighter radiator.
Last edited by arruv89; May 3rd, 2021 at 11:32 PM.
How does the carb run? You can get the correct numbered carb, expect the cost of a complete rebuild on top of the core price, it is over 50 years old. That nut should be available at you local hardware store. Look for a brass nut that comes with ferrels to replace it. Or reach out to a Qjet specialist like Cliff Ruggles for that part.
How does the carb run? You can get the correct numbered carb, expect the cost of a complete rebuild on top of the core price, it is over 50 years old. That nut should be available at you local hardware store. Look for a brass nut that comes with ferrels to replace it. Or reach out to a Qjet specialist like Cliff Ruggles for that part.
I got the car started but not driving just yet. Still need the exhaust system and brake lines installed (which I just ordered). But it sounded great when I started it. I was planning to have this carb rebuilt either way but since it's not the original I was wondering if I should just the get 69 correct carb. Is there any performance differences?
Thank you for letting me know I can get the piece at the local hardware store. 🙌🏽✊🏽
I have a few notes as someone who just got into the Olds world myself with a 68 442. I've been working on cars since I could talk, but always owned Mustangs. So the Oldsmobile and in-fact some of the GM stuff is new to me.
Don't worry about getting it 100% correct and attempt to restore the car now. Just get it safe and running well so you can enjoy it. I'm not saying that I would truly half-*** anything. I'm just saying use what you've got when you can. Maybe put seat covers on instead of restoring the seats now, or use some rubber line properly secured if you can't find the hardline pieces you need. Because, if you try to do it all as a restoration from the beginning, you will end up going broke and possibly loosing interest.
Once running, you can slowly tackle it as a rolling restoration. Installing the correct pieces one by one, or in chunks as you go and as funds and time allow.
In the past I've always bitten off too much at once on almost all of my projects because I wanted it all to be perfect, and thought the only way to achieve that was to rip it all apart and start from the ground up with all the best parts I could find. This time I've made a rule that I will not take something apart unless I have the new parts to replace it, and I will limit the car's time spent non-running to two-day intervals max. Unless something catastrophic happens.
If you have a working carb that might just need a little tuning, keep it, use it, and keep your eyes open for a 69 core that you can rebuild at your leisure.
Pypes makes a nice modern exhaust system with an X pipe in stainless that isn't too expensive, actually fits the chassis pretty well, has several muffler options to choose from, can be had without mufflers, and can even be had with provisions already installed for electric cutouts. (Hey, it's an option)
I just bought the Pypes 3" 409 stainless kit without mufflers for my 68 P/N SGA13. I used Black Widow Venom 250 mufflers and the Pypes 3" trumpet tips. Although I have long tube headers and also had an exhaust shop modify the system to tuck up as high as possible while providing as much tire clearance as was possible. It turned out a little louder than I planned, due to my muffler selection and the lack of space to fit my resonators. Otherwise it came out fantastic and the exhaust shop said that it would've been a bolt-in fit had I not needed the extra clearance. Yes, the Dynomax Super Turbo has been tested to provide a good sound without robbing you of horsepower. Although I do prefer stainless exhaust, as they will not rust out nearly as quickly or as easily.
Don't sweat the small stuff. While trim pieces and perfectly restored bumpers are nice, they are also very expensive. Prioritize running/driving over looking good and having every piece of trim.
Realize that most reproduction parts don't fit correctly, and will require some "modification" to work.
Aftermarket parts are not a sin. If you want an aftermarket aluminum radiator, headers, upgraded stereo. Do it! After all, it's your car. Just try to make as of your modifications reversable as possible. So, try not to cut up any factory parts or good sheet metal that can't be easily repaired or replaced.
BTW, if you want a good Aluminum radiator that is also a pretty good price. My car came with a Northern brand radiator. Other than it not being a 100% direct fit. It's pretty close. With the engine driven fan without a clutch, it almost ran too cool for the heater to work properly. But I know my timing and carb tuning were also off. Looks like the Northern Radiator 205026 would be the fit for your car with an automatic trans. If you have an upgraded charging system, they also have some good electric fan assemblies with thermostatic controllers.
October 6th, 2020, 10:43 AM
