Joel

How much do 455 steel cranks in good shape change hands for now days?

Thanks, Joel

gearheads78

I see them pop up from time to time with 700.00-800.00 asking price.

Joel

OK, Thanks!

citcapp

I've got one laying around I'd sell for that Fresh and ready to go. Not drilled for a stick

Texas Jim

Are the steel cranks that much better "overall" than the Nodular(sp?)? My understanding is that the Nodular cranks are quite durable. I'm just wondering if it'd be worth spending the big money on the steel crank, even f/ racing purposes, considering you're staying below crazy blower power or something like this.

Run to Rund

Olds used a very good nodular iron back in the 60s-early 70s and the forgings were good but not exceptional, so somewhat stronger, but not night and day. Block strength is probably going to be an issue before the crank, unless your poor Olds is a drug addict using huge snorts of nitrous. lol

Joel

I don't need one for my current project. It will be pretty close to stock.
My old motor has a steel crank, and I was just wondering if it is worth trying to sell it to raise some $ for the new project.

Thanks, Joel

cutlassefi

The N or cn cranks are good to 550-600hp with a good balance and the right clearances. The forged ones are much heavier, about 15lbs more, and not necessary for the street. Sell it if you have no intention of ever using it.

Jmo.

507OLDS

That's what I always did.The N-cranks will work just fine.If the day comes that you will make a serious amount of power,go order a billet crank.Yes,I know the billet cranks are expensive,but if you look at the total cost of doing everything immaginable to a factory crank,like offset-grinding,lightening,cutting counterwesights,etc.,you'll be getting close to the cost of a billet crank,but you will still have a heavy crank,and not as strong.

The 507 crank came from a smogger 455,with the pilot bearing hole,and was offset ground to 4.550" with BBC journals.No lightening or other fancy stuff.I have about $500.00 worth of work into this crank.It's been fine for 11 years now.It weighed somewhere around 70lbs,maybe 72lbs.
My new engine has a 4.700" stroke billet crank,and it weighs a hair over 55lbs.That's a huge amount in a rotating assembly.

Texas Jim

Not prying, but about how much "horse power" and "torque" does your engine turn out?

507OLDS

Hard to say now,since I've change a few things up top over the years,but it has ran a best of 10:98 @122mph at 3850lbs,but wasn't too driveable like that.In the last few years it went consistent 11:20's,is driven anywhere,and gets 14mpg,still 3850lbs,full 3" exhaust,drag radials,and passes strict PA inspection.It now has EFI,and I have not made any passes with it yet.My own car is the last thing that gets worked-on.

67Olds442X2

Just sold my 455 steel crank for $400, thing weighed a ton.

507OLDS

If I remember correctly,I think a steel 455 weighs 76lbs.

Run to Rund

Yes, the steel 425 and 455 cranks weigh about 76 lb. vs. about 70 lb for a N 455 crank.

I'd probably pay around $400 for a 455 steel crank that was ready to use, but I can't see going 800 for one, especially when it would take several hundred more to grind and index it, and bore the hole for the pilot bearing.

cutlassefi

Just had a 455 N crank done, after balancing weighed 68lbs. A new cast BBC crank weighs 67, I'm o.k. with that.

Texas Jim

That's a beautiful ride, period. The color, the body style of that year, etc. It has everything going f/ it. In 1984 thru '88 I ran consistant 10.96 to 10.98 et w/ my '83 Honda CB1100F (the big Kawasakis and Suzukis w/ the same work and components were running 11.02s and 11.03s at that time) that had a wiseco 1123 kit, Yoshimura Cams, exhaust, Dana ign., smooth bore carbs, etc.etc. and ran a race compound Perelli tire w/ struts and wheelie bars. It was street legal, drove it to work everyday. Just saying that your car turning those times is "doin' it" IMO. Weighing damn near 4,000lbs, that's some power pushing that thing out of the hole and thru the mid 1/4 mile area. Nice going! Since I've seen that car when you post, I've always liked the looks of it, and the picture there in the "bleach box" (what we called it years ago, "way before" I ran my Honda) is too cool.

507OLDS

Here you go Jim.1st pic is from the 04 Dick Miller event.The next one is from 06,and the last one is from this past year.'



DSCN2062.jpg

VictorEFIintake001-1.jpg

Michal Robak

Hey does anyone still have a crankshaft to an old buick? 400 430 or 455 engine Best would be 430

Owen Miller

Newbie question. I have always been told the early 455s ha forged cranks and a
casting number of N. How do you identify a steel crank ?

HELP,
Owen

Joel

Owen, on any forged crankshaft, not just Oldsmobile, you can tell cast from forged as follows: stand the crankshaft on end, tap the counterweight with a wrench. A forged crankshaft will ring, a cast crankshaft will thud. Also a cast crankshaft has a very narrow sharp parting line visible on the non-machined areas . On a forged crankshaft, there is a wide line, approximately 3/8' wide​​​​​​​

Joel

By the way, the steel 455 crankshaft that I was pondering what to do with when I started this thread 10 years ago sold on eBay for $1,100