Andy

Hey friends,
I have been watching a youtube series on building a 455 by hutch hi perf.. Guy doing the video named Hutchinson seems very detailed. I am planning a rebuild on my 455, was going to let the machine shop do the build but I think I want to do it myself. I think with youtube guidance and guidance on this sight its definitely doable..
Question number one..Hutch shows using the ford 460 rear main seal but says its a little tight on the diameter so he takes a razor blade and removes that thin rubber cover that goes over the steel band on the outer diameter of the rear seal. Then he puts the seal in with the lip towards the internal side of the block..my question is this, is removing that thin rubber off the outer seal a necessary thing to do and if so do you remove from both halves of the seal?
question 2- he installs a milodon windage tray using the arp main studs, is this a necessary thing to do? I know some Pontiac engines had stock windage trays, not sure about Olds.
Question 3- he uses a standard not high volume pump but puts the high pressure spring in..your thoughts on that approach?
thanks
Andy

69 Hurst

My builder did exactly the same thing. Works fine.

ben442

I'm doing the same and I've been watching Hutch as well, very detailed series. Ask him questions in the comments, he has answered all of mine.

joe_padavano

I remain skeptical of Zoo-Tube certified mechanics. Get a factory service manual. I've used the Ford 429/460 rear main seal in a number of motors without any modifications needed. FelPro BS40032 is rubber, BS40654 is Viton. I always use the Melling high volume pump (M22FHV). Windage tray need depends on your intended use. A mild street cruiser doesn't really need one. A motor you plan to beat on should probably have one.

matt69olds

I have used the ford 429/460 rear main seal with zero modifications for years. Put it on, slightly offset the parting lines, use a tiny tab or sealer on the ends, torque the main cap.

If your planning to beat on the engine, a windage tray isn’t a bad idea.

rickw30

X2 - all correct.
I also installed rear main seal with no modifications. After installing, rotate crank and see how she feels.

Andy

I was reading in a post on here to use the viton seal and no seal trimming would be needed. That is what I will do..The utube video got that trimming the seal from Bill Travado as thats what he does. I am not an engine builder so for me watching a solid builder like Hutch Hi Perf is educational along with my Olds manual.

oddball

1) The almighty Bill Trovato started that back-trimming trend. I've done them both ways and it's fine either way. Main thing is make sure the grooves on the crank are polished down so it doesn't chew the seal apart. You do NOT remove the grooves! Just get the sharp edges off.
2) Not necessary, especially for a typical street engine. Fitting and clearancing can be a headache so not worth bothering with unless you have a specific need.
3) Either way. Standard is fine especially if your clearances are on the tight side. I always go with HV but mostly because of the bolt-on pickup. Makes me feel better. As with everything - take the pump apart and inspect it. Melling is pretty good, but it's worth checking. I usually clean up the base plate a little.

joe_padavano

If the seal is anywhere close to those grooves, you've got a bigger problem. Polished or not, if the seal is riding on the grooves, it isn't sealing. The grooves should be forward of the seal - the OEM rope seal is wider than the rubber seal and would have been chewed up instantaneously if the grooves were an issue. They are there to act as a "slinger" to pull the oil film away from the seal. I've never touched them on any Olds build.

sysmg

High pressure oil pump doesn't have much benefit. You only need 10lbs per 1k RPM. High Volume will help if there are any loose clearances.