Cmpeirce123

I’ve got a 65 425 I swapped into my 1964 F85. I’ve got it bored .030 over, I believe it’s the 10.25:1 cr, edelbrock performer intake, msd ignition, Hei distributor, comp cam roller rockers, Howard’s cam .496/.498 lift, hooker headers to 3in hooker aero chamber mufflers, heads are stock besides dual springs and rockers, stock rear end not sure of the ratio. And I have 29in tall by 10in wide rear tires.

My question is I’m going to be swapping in a TH400 for the 2 speed here soon. I want to put a bigger cam in the car and I need to get a stall converter. What’s a good bigger cam and stall that’ll work good on the street but also on the strip now and then? I’m also going to be putting on a 800cfm Holley. I know I need to find the rear end ratio so I’ll have to do some digging on that. I know I need to look for a posi. Plus maybe some head work.

OLDSter Ralph

That 65 rear end is not that rugged. You might want something different, with a better choice of ratio's. You didn't mention cam duration of what you have now or the lifter bank angle of the block (45 or 39 degrees).
I always liked the '67 W-30/'68 H/O (308/308 advertised duration, .475/.475) cam in 4 speed or TH400 (with 2500 stall), 3.90 or 4.33 rear gears. It worked with a Quadrajet or 3 X 2's. Use adjustable rocker arms and use internal snap rings on the lifters, not those cheap "hair pin retainers". Be careful with valve spring seated pressure.
Cutlassefi might be able to help with a cam.
....Just my two cents worth.

67OAI

If the block is in fact a 1965 year 425 it will have the 45 degree cam lifter bank angle. When selecting a replacement cam for your current Howard's you will have to be aware of how much lift at the valve your heads will accept. The items you shall need to know are how much valve stem retainer to valve stem seal clearance you have and also how much clearance to valve spring coil bind. In most cases, not necessarily all, you should have adequate clearance for up to about .520" lift at the valve. I'm sure Mark, cutlassefi, can help you with cam selection. Regarding rear end, if you will be using drag slicks, you would be wise to upgrade to a 8.5" rear from a '71/'72 Cutlass; the stock 8.2" rear is adequate for street use with a good ratio gear, 3.55, 3.90, 4.33. Also if using slicks it is wise to tie the forward mounting points of the upper and lower rear control arms together. General Motors started using these reinforcement brackets on 4 speed equipped GTOs and big block Chevelles in 1966 or 1967 due to the instance of the upper rear frame cross member welds being torn loose. They are now available from many aftermarket performance chassis product manufacturers. Be aware that two different lengths are available, one for 1964 thru 1967 A-bodies and the other for 1968 thru 1972 A-bodies.

Cmpeirce123

I miss spoke on the cam. Yeah it is the 45 degree. It’ll be mostly street maybe 3-4 times at the track in the summer. When I get it all done. There’s the cam cards. I’m looking for something more aggressive than this.

cutlassefi

That’s just the generic 214/224 stuff done on a 45 that’s all. (They have the lifts listed backwards though)
I have a cam grind that’ll work well in your combination, and lift is still under .500. Let me know if I can be of help.
Thanks!!