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I've got a 2006 Scion xB with a blown engine, and I've got a 1968 Toronado drivetrain. So naturally, I'm going to turn the Scion into a mid engine big block RWD. Naturally.
I figured I'd make a post here about it because you guys are kinda the gurus when it comes to 455s, and anything 442.com can't answer, you guys probably can . So, if you don't mind, I'm gonna make myself comfortable in here and post a little every now and then until I'm ready to start working on the engine!
Feel free to post any questions, comments, or general damnations!
EDIT: PLANS HAVE CHANGED - GOING WITH A DIFFERENT 455
Last edited by Nekrostatic; October 11th, 2018 at 07:41 AM.
Removing the original engine to lighten things up? What about power steering, using the toro ps pump plumbed to the original rack? Interesting project, please take lots of pictures when you get underway.
Removing the original engine to lighten things up? What about power steering, using the toro ps pump plumbed to the original rack? Interesting project, please take lots of pictures when you get underway.
I don't plan on having power steering. I drove the Scion for 3 years with no power steering belt. It's so light you don't even notice.
If you're interested in following the non-Olds progress, I do have a thread here (http://www.clubxb.com/#/topics/85833) that I update weekly if not more.
So the plan is to run the C heads, ported out a bit. Stock pistons and rods, it's already got the nodular crank installed. High rise intake manifold (sheet metal because I'm cheap). HEI distributor with MSD coil (and a clear distributor cap because I'm easily amused by lights and shiny things)
I don't want it to be a 5 second car but the idea is to have a little strip burner that I can take on the street every now and then. Keeping in mind that the Scion shell with everything stripped should weigh around 1850 lbs. (a few lbs less than a Toronado =P )
Would Comp 42-600-5 be a good choice for cam? Someone near me has one with rollers and lifters for a steal of a deal. Is this something I should pursue? Here are the copy-pasted specs.
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 241
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226 int./241 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 278
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 296
Advertised Duration: 278 int./296 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.491 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.476 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.491 int./0.476 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 107
Grind Number: 279TH7
I've never known much about cams. Any help is appreciated here!
Last edited by Nekrostatic; December 28th, 2017 at 10:31 AM.
Got her up on the stand this weekend and started tearing in.
Needs some freshening up. I see an N! Nodular crank confirmed! It's got the oil windage channels Standard GM pistons. Might keep these. ...might not. That's serif, right? An 8 on top of F1? What does that mean? Don't know what this means either. Those walls need some cleaning!
Seems to be a 1970 block (built Dec 3) with upgraded nodular crank, stock pistons and rods. Still waiting for the guy to find the heads. Seems that the F1 is a high zinc block, the best choice for high power applications!
Last edited by Nekrostatic; January 21st, 2018 at 04:22 PM.
Welcome. I think you will find better info here than you will at 442.com. This is the best Olds site on the internet. There are lots of good very knowledgeable folks here who are glad to help. That is an interesting build you have going.
I have seen lots of blocks with the F1 cast amp in the back of the block. I would bet the other numbers are probably numbers that correspond to what mold was used to cast the block.
Got a bunch done last night. Got the crank, cam, and pistons all out. Only broke 1 piston skirt in the process! Argh. Where can I order a single stock piston? I have the number in my last post. Ended with 666.
Got the harmonic balancer off with nothing but a hammer... Just taking pictures of where everything goes. Crank's out! I just thought this picture looked neat.
Long overdue update! Another car fell into my lap since the last update, so we got that done and gone. I also got my hands on another engine! It's a Marine 455 with KB pistons, an aluminum intake, Ka heads, and the piece-de-resistance, it's bolted up to a Cummins turbo. So that will be the new powerplant for this beast. All I have to do is swap out the stock RWD pan for the FWD pan and crank scrapers that I have, find a distributor, and decide if I want to go carb or EFI system.
Seems that the F1 is a high zinc block, the best choice for high power applications!
Another one of the 442.com tales. There never was a "High Zinc Block". Olds cast their blocks with a different alloy of nickle steel. The F1 in the back of the block was probably a foundry mark to designate which mold the block was cast in. Casting foundries generally had multiple mold cavities in which the steel was poured in case if one was destroyed in process they always had others to pour.
Was about to order the distributor and starter when I found a guy with a 1975 455 with trans for $100. Engine is seized but I'm crossing fingers that the dizzy and starter are good enough that I can get this one running. Picking it up this weekend. Should be focusing on the frame right now but this fell in my lap so I don't wanna miss out on potentially saving a couple hundred bucks. I also could be wasting $100 on parts that aren't usable. Oh well, I can probably sell it to the next guy for what I paid.
Last few months have been getting the frame and subframe connected to the unibody, but I have hoarded some engine goodies in the meantime.
Timing gear kit
Found a used Fitech 800hp Throttle Body
Got a shift kit for the TH425
Buddy of mine is cleaning the heads up
Mr Gasket 4333 electric water pump drive
Got a welded HEI distributor at full advance (that I plan on replacing once the EFI is dialed in)
Edelbrock dual plane
I gotta find somewhere to get the block dipped so that I can start to paint it, then expect some progress reports again
Good luck. Hopefully the first time you hit the gas the engine wont rip out of the vehicle, or twist the body so much you can't open the doors.
I'd spend some time welding in frame elements to stiffen up the vehicle, or at least tie the engine subframe to the front suspension.
Sounds like a blast! Can't wait to hear about the progress.
BTW. I don't think you need to do anything special to the motor. It would be wild with a completely stock engine. Hopping up the motor will make marginal difference.
Good luck. Hopefully the first time you hit the gas the engine wont rip out of the vehicle, or twist the body so much you can't open the doors.
I'd spend some time welding in frame elements to stiffen up the vehicle, or at least tie the engine subframe to the front suspension.
I was trying not to talk too much about the non-Olds aspects of the build here, as I know how some members here can be, but this was all taken into consideration already. We cut the front off of the subframe where the bumper mounts would be and welded 4 foot 2x4" channels pointing forwards. Those are welded to the floor of the xb subframe, with gussets to the rockers. It shouldn't (?) destroy itself too much, hopefully.
Originally Posted by sysmg
BTW. I don't think you need to do anything special to the motor. It would be wild with a completely stock engine. Hopping up the motor will make marginal difference.
You're probably right, but I figure this way, if it DOES tear itself apart, I've got a usable hopped up motor ready to drop into something else equally stupid.
Progress stopped for a wedding, now we're back! Honeymoon was just me at the machine shop for a week learning how to do everything. Was able to reuse everything except for the keepers and an exhaust valve that was a bit bent. Obviously new gaskets.
Also I know our heads have a problem with draining oil down to the bottom and starving the pump, so I drilled some holes into the oil return passage, tapped them with some hose barbs and I'm gonna run that into a fitting I'm going to weld into the top of the pan. They flow really well when I had it on the test bench!
That mod you did to the oil galleys in the heads is interesting. I wounder what dedicated racers on our site would say about it? I know that restrictors are sometimes installed in the oil galleys.
That mod you did to the oil galleys in the heads is interesting. I wounder what dedicated racers on our site would say about it? I know that restrictors are sometimes installed in the oil galleys.
Thanks! I'm also really interested to hear some opinions on that. I know lots of people install the restrictors but I don't know, something about the idea of restricting oil flow to me seems... backwards? No offense meant to anyone with that, I just wanted to try something else. If it doesn't work, I can always just plug the holes and go a different direction.
Even more hilarious, the myth was about high NICKEL content in the cast iron. High zinc is for motor oil...
I've always heard that the high nickel blocks where the Mexican blocks, but someone told me that that casting meant it was a high zinc block?? I'm sure that's not the case
I've always heard that the high nickel blocks where the Mexican blocks, but someone told me that that casting meant it was a high zinc block?? I'm sure that's not the case
There are no Oldsmobile "Mexican" blocks, and zinc is pot metal. You need to stop believing hearsay.
Finally got to the point of compression testing it on the bench and every cylinder is at 80 psi almost exactly. We think it might be a lifter issue but does anywhere else have any ideas? Could I have skipped a tooth? Any other ideas or things I should be looking at?
December 27th, 2017, 02:45 PM
. So, if you don't mind, I'm gonna make myself comfortable in here and post a little every now and then until I'm ready to start working on the engine!
