6D7 442

I’m going to be pulling the engine on my ‘67 442 in the next month or so, it has 81,000 miles on it. It runs pretty good now, but has a tick, sounds like a lifter. I don’t think it’s ever been apart. I plan doing a compression test before I pull it. I’m going to pull the heads, check the cylinders, pistons, etc.. What typically has to be done to the heads, to run unleaded fuel, and just to repair wear? And cost. I tried searching the forums to no avail. Thanks

edzolz

Unless you plan on driving the car at sustained highway speeds for hours at a time, You do not need to do anything to the heads except check the valve guides for wear, do a light cleanup seat grind, and maybe a little port work if you want to. Do not let anyone talk you into new valve seats unless they are experts on Olds heads. I drove a stock 67 442 around town for 75,000 miles on unleaded gas and when I pulled the heads there was no recession at all.

Oldsmaniac

Remember the Amoco or going back further American Gas Stations? They sold premium and it was unleaded, white gas it was called... Never heard anything about engine issues for those who ran this gas exclusively... or maybe no-one did...

Run to Rund

Being in Wisconsin, if you want top notch work and are willing to pay a fair price for it, check out Rocket Racing which is near Milwaukee.

Fun71

I would say verify the noise isn't something simple such as an exhaust leak before you tear the engine apart.

6D7 442

I also want to replace all the 54 year old gaskets while the engine is out.

Sugar Bear

Pulling the heads to change the gaskets will lower the compression ratio due to thicker new head gaskets. Pulling the heads solely to inspect things if the compression is good may be a net loss. If the compression is good you could just replace the valve seals with the heads in place.

As Oldsmaniac stated​​​​​​ ​American which became Amoco which is now BP sold premium unleaded fuel back in the '60's. I've never seen a problem from its use, I wouldn't be overly concerned with installing hardened seats for a stock refresh.

Hopefully some of the forums Olds engine builders will comment about their experience and the need for hardened valve seats.

Good luck!!!

6D7 442

Thanks for all the great feedback. Food for thought.

442Shaker

Im not much of a guru on the engine side of my car, basic understanding though. Anyone know which parts from a late 70s 403 fit in a 66 E block (fuel pump, oil pan etc.) i have all the main parts from my 400 for a build but all the little chicken **** stuff was missing like oil filler stem, pan, valve covers intake , water pump timing cover etc. its my understanding alot of parts do fit.
So far the engine checks out been tanked and magged, just polishing the crank to check tolerances, block is now bored .040 over, heads have new valves/springs, decked a bit & 3 angle valve job. Any suggestions on choices for cam and pistons?

67OAI

Regarding the recommendation on cam, would depend on the transmission type and rear end gear ratio and also the final static compression ratio of the engine; also the type of driving you intend. The "E" block requires the .921" diameter lifter of which you need to be sure you buy a good quality piece. Since you already have the heads completed with new valve springs, that would restrict your choice of cam also. Regarding piston choice, aside from Egge engine parts pistons which are a decent rebuilder type piston although heavy and a casting not forged, you would be left with little to chose from; maybe Mark R. , "cutlassefi" on this forum, would have something available. Mark has brought many good parts to the Oldsmobile community through his contacts in the industry and has the better quality .921" lifters also. The timing cover is universal on all Olds V8s since 1965 and some 1964. Pretty much the same with valve covers although several designs throughout the years and if your 442 has power brakes you will need the notched valve cover on the driver side for clearance around the booster. All oil pans also interchange on that motor but you will want one with an integral baffle which I think are only found on the big blocks. Water pump needs to be specific to your year as there are several different lengths made throughout the years. The oil filler stem can be used from any of the Olds engines from 1965 up. Be sure to use a good quality timing set. You will need the fuel pump specific to that year 442 as it requires the vapor return line and has the 3/8" fuel line from the tank. Good luck!

joe_padavano

The only external difference between an SBO and a BBO is the deck height (which obviously effects intake width). Most engine sheet metal (oil pan, front cover, valve covers) interchange, but obviously there are some differences. BBO oil pans have an internal baffle, which makes the SBO pan a less desirable option. The valve covers have some differences over the years, and 403s have five bolt covers, but they bolt to early heads. Cams and timing chain interchange. Water, oil, and fuel pumps interchange, though obviously your water pump needs to match the pulleys and brackets you are using. 64-67 flexplates have a different bolt pattern than do 68-90 flexplates, so they have to go with the year of the crank. Distributors interchange. You can physically bolt SBO exhaust manifolds to BBO heads, but they will be restrictive.

442Shaker

355 rear position, 4 speed muncie hurst was an orig 442 car. I have the original flywheel I believe. Cam and pistons I think will be the biggest question mark. Want to run a bit of a lumpy cam but nothing crazy maybe a little over lap, will be mostly a combo of short highway and street cruising.

Fun71

Standard bore 350 pistons are an option. 4.057" diameter compared to 4.000" bore on an original 400E block.

67OAI

As Fun71 stated, the std bore 350 piston at 4.057" is a popular piston for use in the 400 CID "E" block. Speed Pro L2320F is the readily available forged flat top version. You will have to have the rotating assembly balanced no matter which piston choice. Since you have the 3.55 rear gear and 4 spd trans, cam selection should be plentiful. The EARLY ('66/'67) W30 cam (308 advertised duration) is a decent choice and can be used with power brakes if you have them; best installed slightly advanced. Also, not mentioned previously, you must have the connecting rods reconditioned! Others may contribute camshaft recommendations that they have had success with. Keep the questions coming to do it right!

6D7 442

[QUOTE= The EARLY ('66/'67) W30 cam (308 advertised duration) is a decent choice and can be used with power brakes if you have them.[/QUOTE]

As I read this I was laughing to myself. Back in 77-78 I had a 1969 Cutlass with a 350, and power brakes. it had 109,000 miles on it. Decided to rebuild it with flat top pistons, a Crane Fireball cam, and a flex fan. Boy was I young and dumb. It didn’t run well until I hit the mid to high rpm’s, and I didn’t have power brakes anymore, due to the lack of vacuum. It’s funny, when you’re young, you think you know it all. No one can tell you anything.

Run to Rund

If you end up using an E block, or a D from a Toro,I have a couple camshafts with lifters, broken in but not worn. One hydraulic, one solid with adjustable pushrods, both a bit stronger than the 328 degree Olds cam.