1975 442 PrePurchase Considerations
#1
1975 442 PrePurchase Considerations
I am looking at a 1975 442 to purchase as a project vehicle. It is a true 442 with correct hood. It was (is) a 350 auto car. This is the usual started project-lost interest car. It has a massaged 350 in the engine bay now. Here is what he writes about the engine:
355 olds
350 trans
Heads were just redone, New springs,retainers, valves, milled .030 bottom and sides. With receipt (cost 1275 alone)
Motor bored .030 over. Forged aluminum flat top pistons not cast.
Edelbrock aluminum intake
And a 750 Holley carb
Headers
************************************************** ***************************
He has another 350 engine that can go with it with "#8 heads". Also a 307 I have no interest in.
So, IF I buy this car, I will purchase a 455 and likely a TH400. I have no interest in either the 355 (350) or the 2nd 350. I am in Des Moines, Iowa. The car is in northwest Iowa. Are these engines in any demand mode? I would like to get $350 for the engines. I am asking this ahead of time because if I buy the car, the 350's are going, I am not keeping them. Therefore, I am checking on possible demand. Also, can that 750 cfm carb work on a 455 aluminum intake?
Past the engine question, I am always open to advice and thoughts on the restoration of this car. I am a fan of 442's, have owned a 66 4 speed car, a 67, a Bittersweet and Parchment 1971 455 car. I am also a fan of the 73-77's, so this is not a desperation consideration. My grandmother had a 74 Cutlass Supreme. This car is set up the way I like except the lack of the 455, which I believe was pretty rare option in 1975.
It is that same Bittersweet Orange, my favorite color, has the 442 hood, bucket seats and console interior. I see I can get interior seat covers and door vinyl parts, carpet. An Olds expert told me the rear axles are 8.5 and parts and upgrades are easily available. My thinking is a massaged 455 - meaning, rebuilt with better flowing heads, roller rockers, aluminum dual plane intake, stock exhaust manifolds, maybe smoothed, and a 3.23 or so rear posi.
355 olds
350 trans
Heads were just redone, New springs,retainers, valves, milled .030 bottom and sides. With receipt (cost 1275 alone)
Motor bored .030 over. Forged aluminum flat top pistons not cast.
Edelbrock aluminum intake
And a 750 Holley carb
Headers
************************************************** ***************************
He has another 350 engine that can go with it with "#8 heads". Also a 307 I have no interest in.
So, IF I buy this car, I will purchase a 455 and likely a TH400. I have no interest in either the 355 (350) or the 2nd 350. I am in Des Moines, Iowa. The car is in northwest Iowa. Are these engines in any demand mode? I would like to get $350 for the engines. I am asking this ahead of time because if I buy the car, the 350's are going, I am not keeping them. Therefore, I am checking on possible demand. Also, can that 750 cfm carb work on a 455 aluminum intake?
Past the engine question, I am always open to advice and thoughts on the restoration of this car. I am a fan of 442's, have owned a 66 4 speed car, a 67, a Bittersweet and Parchment 1971 455 car. I am also a fan of the 73-77's, so this is not a desperation consideration. My grandmother had a 74 Cutlass Supreme. This car is set up the way I like except the lack of the 455, which I believe was pretty rare option in 1975.
It is that same Bittersweet Orange, my favorite color, has the 442 hood, bucket seats and console interior. I see I can get interior seat covers and door vinyl parts, carpet. An Olds expert told me the rear axles are 8.5 and parts and upgrades are easily available. My thinking is a massaged 455 - meaning, rebuilt with better flowing heads, roller rockers, aluminum dual plane intake, stock exhaust manifolds, maybe smoothed, and a 3.23 or so rear posi.
#2
Sounds like a good plan to me. The 750 CFM carb will work on most aftermarket manifolds, some will work with both square bore and spread bore carbs. Selling engines is always a crapshoot, I'm sure with some time you can move them.
#3
Yes, the engines thing is bunmming me out. This seller wants everything to go away. This is one of the few times I would want to buy a car without the drivetrain.
I have heard to run dual exhaust, you need a pre 1975 transmission cross member. A little worried about getting stuck at a certain point needing something "special" to complete the project. Otherwise I am getting closer to making the decision.
I have heard to run dual exhaust, you need a pre 1975 transmission cross member. A little worried about getting stuck at a certain point needing something "special" to complete the project. Otherwise I am getting closer to making the decision.
#4
Yes, you need a 1973-74 crossmember. I've heard that 68-72 crossmembers can be made to work but have no first-hand experience there. As a last resort, you can buy an aftermarket double hump crossmember for the 73-77 cars. These are readily available, just spendy.
#5
Your existing cross-member can be modified by anyone with welding experience, basically a piece [approx 4" long] is cut out in line with the left hand main pipe, and its 'flipped' over and welded in place to create a 'tunnel' for clearance. I've had muffler shops do it as part of an installation. Easy Peasy.
A 73-4 dual hump goes for $125-150 and there are 2 different styles, flat stamped, and round-ish tubular
Brett
A 73-4 dual hump goes for $125-150 and there are 2 different styles, flat stamped, and round-ish tubular
Brett
#7
Dave
I don't have the car yet, am just considering purchase. I don't know the heads but he said (said) he has $1275 in the heads alone and has a 2nd Oldsmobile 350 engine with "#8" heads. I used to know enough to be dangerous about Olds numbers but don't know what that means.
I don't have the car yet, am just considering purchase. I don't know the heads but he said (said) he has $1275 in the heads alone and has a 2nd Oldsmobile 350 engine with "#8" heads. I used to know enough to be dangerous about Olds numbers but don't know what that means.
#8
Your existing cross-member can be modified by anyone with welding experience, basically a piece [approx 4" long] is cut out in line with the left hand main pipe, and its 'flipped' over and welded in place to create a 'tunnel' for clearance. I've had muffler shops do it as part of an installation. Easy Peasy.
A 73-4 dual hump goes for $125-150 and there are 2 different styles, flat stamped, and round-ish tubular
Brett
A 73-4 dual hump goes for $125-150 and there are 2 different styles, flat stamped, and round-ish tubular
Brett
#9
Depends, if it comes as a running engine and the seller has all the paperwork for the engine rebuild, not just the heads. And even then if the receipts are years old.
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June 18th, 2023 06:58 PM