TKO in a 442
#1
TKO in a 442
Has anyone put a Tremec TKO 500 in a 68 - 72 442?
Mine is a '68.
What part of the floor has to be cut to fit?
Is there an available template for same?
I knows GM a-bodies etc. do have interference w/stock floor humps.
Thanks
Bud
Mine is a '68.
What part of the floor has to be cut to fit?
Is there an available template for same?
I knows GM a-bodies etc. do have interference w/stock floor humps.
Thanks
Bud
#4
Thanks,
I will also need a FORD oldschool speedo cable a little longer than normal it seems
(std 60" need 64"+ -), there has to be a std item out there at this length. Not lucky enough to have Keisler kit, a just tool box, SUPER CLEAN, rattle cans, and time.
Bud
That cleaner took a grundgie, totally dirt and oil black BBC engine in my 72 Dodge work van and showed it used to be a yellow block and heads, steering parts turned out to be red!
Spray on, wait to soak in, water from another spray bottle to remove and maybe a parts cleaner brush for chunks and amazing.......
I will also need a FORD oldschool speedo cable a little longer than normal it seems
(std 60" need 64"+ -), there has to be a std item out there at this length. Not lucky enough to have Keisler kit, a just tool box, SUPER CLEAN, rattle cans, and time.
Bud
That cleaner took a grundgie, totally dirt and oil black BBC engine in my 72 Dodge work van and showed it used to be a yellow block and heads, steering parts turned out to be red!
Spray on, wait to soak in, water from another spray bottle to remove and maybe a parts cleaner brush for chunks and amazing.......
#5
A guy on ROP did one in a 68 and I saw it in person. He said it was a pain in the rear, but it was the best thing he ever did as he liked it much better than the muncie he ran for years. His author name was GregVM. Try searching for that because I know he posted some threads.
#6
I'm not familiar with the TKO-500, if there are any diffs with a 600.....but
for my '68 TKO-600 w/.64 overdrive:
1)cut tunnel in front near bellhousing and rear near shifter
2)make sure you get the CORRECT speedo cable('68's have a thread on NOT clip on end to the speedo)
3)shorter driveshaft than muncie
4)move crossmember back(I just elongated factory frame holes for the rear two)
5)custom length intermediate parking brake cable(from moving crossmember rearward)
I went with the HYDRAULIC release bearing.....absolutely smooth as glass,even with a 3000 lb static pressure plate,easy to release.
With 3.73's in the rear, I cruise @ 2200 @70 MPH, with plenty of torque to pass a slower moving vehicle like a freight train past a bum.
I got my kit from Keisler, but not the "Perfect fit"(which is basically a stock unit with some shaving done to the case to fit easier)
They seem to be confused about the shifter location: a '68's is NOT offset to the left, I had to exchange the shifter for a straight one from the offset one(easy swap)
With a little metal working, common sense, and money(ugh), do it: you'll be impressed with the results. Best money I every spent on my project.
NEVER a missed shift(even at 6000)
My .02
Greg
for my '68 TKO-600 w/.64 overdrive:
1)cut tunnel in front near bellhousing and rear near shifter
2)make sure you get the CORRECT speedo cable('68's have a thread on NOT clip on end to the speedo)
3)shorter driveshaft than muncie
4)move crossmember back(I just elongated factory frame holes for the rear two)
5)custom length intermediate parking brake cable(from moving crossmember rearward)
I went with the HYDRAULIC release bearing.....absolutely smooth as glass,even with a 3000 lb static pressure plate,easy to release.
With 3.73's in the rear, I cruise @ 2200 @70 MPH, with plenty of torque to pass a slower moving vehicle like a freight train past a bum.
I got my kit from Keisler, but not the "Perfect fit"(which is basically a stock unit with some shaving done to the case to fit easier)
They seem to be confused about the shifter location: a '68's is NOT offset to the left, I had to exchange the shifter for a straight one from the offset one(easy swap)
With a little metal working, common sense, and money(ugh), do it: you'll be impressed with the results. Best money I every spent on my project.
NEVER a missed shift(even at 6000)
My .02
Greg
#8
Trans all in. (Re-built the '65 425 to .030 while it was out.)
From other GM sites that had replaced 4's to 5's I got an idea of how much floor to cut. Only a few extra trims and grinds. No pattern avail.
Must keep trans and pinion angles as close to stock as possible. New drive shaft and yoke. Cross member hole elongation minor.
Still need ford t-5 speedo cable and some panel beating for the trans cover. But its sweet, stronger, and makes the fun last longer.
Even with the 4.33 to 3.30 gear swap and 29" tires, the grunt is still there.
From other GM sites that had replaced 4's to 5's I got an idea of how much floor to cut. Only a few extra trims and grinds. No pattern avail.
Must keep trans and pinion angles as close to stock as possible. New drive shaft and yoke. Cross member hole elongation minor.
Still need ford t-5 speedo cable and some panel beating for the trans cover. But its sweet, stronger, and makes the fun last longer.
Even with the 4.33 to 3.30 gear swap and 29" tires, the grunt is still there.
#13
#14
#16
One major item not accounted for was the crank. Being an original t400 auto crank it should have been drilled deeper when the motor was rebuilt to accept the manual trans nose length difference.
Oh so obvious when mocked up prior to installation, should have mocked up prior to sending the motor out for rebuild.
Soooo.... a FWC (friend with connections) came thru with a 1/2" aluminum spacer between the trans and bell housing ensuring freedom of movement.
Oh so obvious when mocked up prior to installation, should have mocked up prior to sending the motor out for rebuild.
Soooo.... a FWC (friend with connections) came thru with a 1/2" aluminum spacer between the trans and bell housing ensuring freedom of movement.
Last edited by buds68a77; December 16th, 2011 at 07:34 AM.
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