Need help Deciphering a 68 442 Cowl Tag
#1
Need help Deciphering a 68 442 Cowl Tag
Body by Fisher
01C
St 68-336667 Lan 252907 Body
TR 947 A2 Paint
The Vin is 344678Mxxxxxx
This is a 68 Olds 2 dr 4-4-2 Convertible Factory 4 Speed.
How do I verify that it is indeed an original Factory 4 Speed, other than
the weld and boot on the floor?
Thanks,C
01C
St 68-336667 Lan 252907 Body
TR 947 A2 Paint
The Vin is 344678Mxxxxxx
This is a 68 Olds 2 dr 4-4-2 Convertible Factory 4 Speed.
How do I verify that it is indeed an original Factory 4 Speed, other than
the weld and boot on the floor?
Thanks,C
#2
The VIN tells you only that it's a '68 442 convertible built at Lansing.
I doubt the cowl tag will tell you anything about the transmission. Information on there is related to exterior and interior colors and trim plus options that would have been installed by Fisher Body. Others will chime in soon, I'm sure, to decode what you have.
The "01C" refers to the build date of the car, which translates to third week (C) of January (1), which would be January 1968.
I doubt the cowl tag will tell you anything about the transmission. Information on there is related to exterior and interior colors and trim plus options that would have been installed by Fisher Body. Others will chime in soon, I'm sure, to decode what you have.
The "01C" refers to the build date of the car, which translates to third week (C) of January (1), which would be January 1968.
#4
Deciphering cowl tag... Thanks
Hi, Thak you for the information regarding the cowl tag. I was not sure about the A2 code.They sure did not put much info on these cowl tags for 68 in Lansing.
So how does one verify a Factory 4 Speed car? The original weld,tac, etc is intact.
I am trying to sell it as I have not the funds to restore it to it's former glory. It is rare- it deserves to be brought back.
Thanks,J
So how does one verify a Factory 4 Speed car? The original weld,tac, etc is intact.
I am trying to sell it as I have not the funds to restore it to it's former glory. It is rare- it deserves to be brought back.
Thanks,J
#5
One way to tell if your 4-spd is original to the car is to look for the vehicle identification code (VIN) "derivative" stamped into the housing on the transmission. All '68 and newer manual transmissions have the final eight digits of the VIN (or what is referred to as the VIN derivative) stamped vertically into the driver side of the housing. If you are small enough you will be able to see it laying on the ground, squeezing in as far as you can and cleaning the surface area of the tranny to see the stamping. If not, you will have to put your car on a lift to see it. If the transmission in your car has "8MXXXXXX" (where the X spaces represent the last six numbers of your VIN) and it matches your VIN, then you know that transmission came with that car.
There is also a date code stamped into the passenger side of the tranny housing, also vertically, indicating the production date of your transmission. It should look like "P8(letter)(two digit number). The P means Muncie and the 8 means 1968 (based on the production date of your car, this number might be a 7, for late 1967). "letter" is the month the tranny was built (A to E is JAN to MAY respectively, H is JUN, K is JUL, M is AUG, P is SEP, R is OCT, S is NOV and T is DEC). The two digit number is the day of the month the tranny was built.
Your trim tag means this:
01C = time build code = January (01), third week of that month (C) 1968.
ST 68 = style/model year = 1968
33667 (I think you put an extra 6 in your message):
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (Lansing kept this designation on their trim tag for Cutlass V8 and 442 models; the 44 does appear in your VIN which makes your car a true 442
67 = body type = convertible
TR 947 = interior color and front seat type = parchment color interior with strato bucket seats
A - 2 PAINT = lower and upper body colors = ebony black lower body color (A) with a black convertible top (2)
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
There is also a date code stamped into the passenger side of the tranny housing, also vertically, indicating the production date of your transmission. It should look like "P8(letter)(two digit number). The P means Muncie and the 8 means 1968 (based on the production date of your car, this number might be a 7, for late 1967). "letter" is the month the tranny was built (A to E is JAN to MAY respectively, H is JUN, K is JUL, M is AUG, P is SEP, R is OCT, S is NOV and T is DEC). The two digit number is the day of the month the tranny was built.
Your trim tag means this:
01C = time build code = January (01), third week of that month (C) 1968.
ST 68 = style/model year = 1968
33667 (I think you put an extra 6 in your message):
3 = GM division = Oldsmobile
36 = model series = Cutlass V8 (Lansing kept this designation on their trim tag for Cutlass V8 and 442 models; the 44 does appear in your VIN which makes your car a true 442
67 = body type = convertible
TR 947 = interior color and front seat type = parchment color interior with strato bucket seats
A - 2 PAINT = lower and upper body colors = ebony black lower body color (A) with a black convertible top (2)
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
#6
Thank you Randy...Cowl decipher
Thanks Randy..
Lordy, I did put in an extra 6. Sometimes those fingers try to type too fast. Thank you .
unfortunately the previous owner (for 30 years) sold the trans.when he was going to convert to an automatic.
All I have is the factory weld where the trans connectin went thru the body . After owning her for 4 years, I am now trying to sell as I just do not have the funds to restore her to the former glory that she deserves. Not happy about it, and sure I will regret it down the road, but ....
Well,maybe someone will be able to do so.
Thanks again,
JW
Lordy, I did put in an extra 6. Sometimes those fingers try to type too fast. Thank you .
unfortunately the previous owner (for 30 years) sold the trans.when he was going to convert to an automatic.
All I have is the factory weld where the trans connectin went thru the body . After owning her for 4 years, I am now trying to sell as I just do not have the funds to restore her to the former glory that she deserves. Not happy about it, and sure I will regret it down the road, but ....
Well,maybe someone will be able to do so.
Thanks again,
JW
#7
There isn't any fool proof way to prove it's a 4 speed but things like the remnants of the original console hump or the Z bar bracket welded to the frame are a plus.
I bought mine as a total basket case. No motor or tranny and the kid I bought it from had hacked all but a small part of the shifter cut-out when he replaced the floors. That and the Z bar bracket were the only proof the car was originally a 4 speed. The steering column bracket where the clutch linkage passes through the firewall is specific to 4 speeds to but that can be swapped in.
I bought mine as a total basket case. No motor or tranny and the kid I bought it from had hacked all but a small part of the shifter cut-out when he replaced the floors. That and the Z bar bracket were the only proof the car was originally a 4 speed. The steering column bracket where the clutch linkage passes through the firewall is specific to 4 speeds to but that can be swapped in.
#8
4Speed verification
Hi Ally, thanks. THe hump is still there as is the floor opening and boot and of course the underside weld around the perimeter of the opening.Have to look where the clutch linkage passes through the firewall . The guy we bought it from put in a automatic shift steering column But I guess the linkage opening would still be there.
Thanks so much. I am trying to sell it on Ebay,just cannot afford to restore this project anymore. Sure was hoping to be able to.
Thanks again, Cindy
Thanks so much. I am trying to sell it on Ebay,just cannot afford to restore this project anymore. Sure was hoping to be able to.
Thanks again, Cindy
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