$64,000 Question
#1
$64,000 Question
Hi Guys,
Here's the one question I've been meaning to ask since the day I joined the forum, and keep forgetting to do so. I've asked a million people this question and no one has an answer. Let's see how you do.
The car in question is my 72 W30. All original with 50K miles. Here's the question: Behind the pedals on the firewall is a plastic "carpet protector" for lack of a better word. You've all seen them for sale...black plastic and they run between $10 and $25 bucks. Mine is cracked where the clutch petal smacks into it at full travel. I've looked everywhere for a way to limit clutch pedal travel to stop cracking the protector....but don't see a way. When you're driving it's impossible to not push the clutch to the firewall, so I can't be the only one having this problem. So...for $64,000.....how do you limit clutch pedal travel to stop cracking the plastic carpet protector????
thanks,
bob
Here's the one question I've been meaning to ask since the day I joined the forum, and keep forgetting to do so. I've asked a million people this question and no one has an answer. Let's see how you do.
The car in question is my 72 W30. All original with 50K miles. Here's the question: Behind the pedals on the firewall is a plastic "carpet protector" for lack of a better word. You've all seen them for sale...black plastic and they run between $10 and $25 bucks. Mine is cracked where the clutch petal smacks into it at full travel. I've looked everywhere for a way to limit clutch pedal travel to stop cracking the protector....but don't see a way. When you're driving it's impossible to not push the clutch to the firewall, so I can't be the only one having this problem. So...for $64,000.....how do you limit clutch pedal travel to stop cracking the plastic carpet protector????
thanks,
bob
#3
Hi 442Harv,
I hear ya, but even if the clutch pedal touches the plastic lightly it's gonna crack it....there's nothing hard behind the protector....only insulation. And as you're implying, it must be me. When I push the clutch in it's to the firewall. It's not a light feeling clutch, so engaged is out and disengaged is to the wall. I've tried to modulate.....but can't.
regards,
bob
I hear ya, but even if the clutch pedal touches the plastic lightly it's gonna crack it....there's nothing hard behind the protector....only insulation. And as you're implying, it must be me. When I push the clutch in it's to the firewall. It's not a light feeling clutch, so engaged is out and disengaged is to the wall. I've tried to modulate.....but can't.
regards,
bob
#5
Now Run......do you really think that answer is worth the whole $64,000? What I'm really asking is why isn't everone with a stock 4 speed cracking their carpet protector like I am? Same thing would apply for all GM A-bodies I presume....yet no one has ever complained...except me.
But I guess if no one can answer the question I'll have to send you a check. You DO take checks, right???
Have a great night!
bob
But I guess if no one can answer the question I'll have to send you a check. You DO take checks, right???
Have a great night!
bob
#6
They're all cracked on MT A-bodies.
Fortunately, they made more AT's, so there's always a supply of replacements .
If you made a stop, you'd have to be darn sure you still had enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
- Eric
Fortunately, they made more AT's, so there's always a supply of replacements .
If you made a stop, you'd have to be darn sure you still had enough pedal travel to completely disengage the clutch.
- Eric
#8
AND, if you wanted to put in a stop, but retain the same travel, and didn't mind the clutch pedal sitting higher than the brake, you could pull the clutch pedal off the pivot, drill through the pedal arm itself (clutch rod attaches to a tab welded to the arm), attach the rod directly to the arm, and it will sit about an inch higher, and away from the firewall.
- Eric
- Eric
#9
Ok....so I'm making that check out to E-R-I-C......
Seriously, it just surprises me that if this problem occured with all the 4-speed A-bodies you'd think GM would have fixed it by 1972. I'm sure lots of owners would have complained....no? Or maybe nobody ever looked at their plastic carpet protector. Just seems funny this type of quality issue existed back in the day when GM was on top of their quality game.
Eric.....I'm not into modifying my cars. I'm one of those "keep it stock" nuts......but I do appreciate the suggestion. I've probably got one or two spare protectors out in the shed.....it's just that crap like this drives us "**** retentive" types nuts. )
Have a good one,
bob
Seriously, it just surprises me that if this problem occured with all the 4-speed A-bodies you'd think GM would have fixed it by 1972. I'm sure lots of owners would have complained....no? Or maybe nobody ever looked at their plastic carpet protector. Just seems funny this type of quality issue existed back in the day when GM was on top of their quality game.
Eric.....I'm not into modifying my cars. I'm one of those "keep it stock" nuts......but I do appreciate the suggestion. I've probably got one or two spare protectors out in the shed.....it's just that crap like this drives us "**** retentive" types nuts. )
Have a good one,
bob
#10
I stopped putting my spare ones on - they kept cracking.
I replaced a couple over the years, and at first wasn't sure whether I had replaced it, or just THOUGHT I'd replaced it, then realized what was happening.
Just remember, "Continuous Quality Improvement" were not words in GM's vocabulary in the '70's (or even in the '90's).
[If you're interested, there's an interesting radio broadcast about the subject of GM quality.
Here's a pay link and a free link - let your conscience be your guide.]
- Eric
I replaced a couple over the years, and at first wasn't sure whether I had replaced it, or just THOUGHT I'd replaced it, then realized what was happening.
Just remember, "Continuous Quality Improvement" were not words in GM's vocabulary in the '70's (or even in the '90's).
[If you're interested, there's an interesting radio broadcast about the subject of GM quality.
Here's a pay link and a free link - let your conscience be your guide.]
- Eric
#13
Well....I gotta say I'm a bit relieved I'm not the only guy cracking his carpet protector. )
Driving from the back seat...........hadn't thought of that. Who ever said Oldsmobile guys weren't innovative???
thanks,
bob
Driving from the back seat...........hadn't thought of that. Who ever said Oldsmobile guys weren't innovative???
thanks,
bob
#14
I've had five '72 4 speed Cutlass/442s - all of them had cracked protectors when I bought them. Nobody probably even noticed this issue to complain about it until years later when the first "restorations" and carpet replacements were needed on these cars. You're not alone.
Terry
Terry
#16
I assume this mounts similar to the AT version. If I am envisioning it correctly......
See if you can provide some support for the plastic piece from behind to limit the flexing. Cut away any carpet or jute from right behind the pedal area and glue in some small stacked up blocks of wood or so to get just the right height. Avoid gorilla-type pedal pushing after then.
The plastic becomes brittle with age. They probably all started cracking after 10 years or so. Plastic is not designed to last 40 years in car-type environments and they are probably lasting longer than i would have expected.
The other day i filled a 20 year old 5 gallon bucket half full of dirt. Upon picking it up witht he handle, the bucket broke cleanly in half before it got off the ground. when trying to lift it from the bottom edges, the bottom fell out.
So now the bucket has been tilled in with the dirt...
See if you can provide some support for the plastic piece from behind to limit the flexing. Cut away any carpet or jute from right behind the pedal area and glue in some small stacked up blocks of wood or so to get just the right height. Avoid gorilla-type pedal pushing after then.
The plastic becomes brittle with age. They probably all started cracking after 10 years or so. Plastic is not designed to last 40 years in car-type environments and they are probably lasting longer than i would have expected.
The other day i filled a 20 year old 5 gallon bucket half full of dirt. Upon picking it up witht he handle, the bucket broke cleanly in half before it got off the ground. when trying to lift it from the bottom edges, the bottom fell out.
So now the bucket has been tilled in with the dirt...
#17
Another suggestion. These are not to difficult to replace. So, keep one for driving (crack and all) and the other one for car shows. It's a bit of a PITA but you can have your cake and eat it too.
#19
Yes...I've got a cracked one also.Now, has anyone had to replace the clutch pedal assembly due to over agressive clutch engagement practices. [Now that I have matured,I'll try not to have to replace any clutch parts.]
Last edited by Bunser; October 22nd, 2010 at 07:35 AM. Reason: sp
#20
- Eric
#21
Put the seat back a little further, even if you've gotta move the tracks!!
Probably keep you outa the gas, too! [haha]
I'd think you could weld-in an adjustable stop around the crossbar, somewhere, if it's that important!
Probably keep you outa the gas, too! [haha]
I'd think you could weld-in an adjustable stop around the crossbar, somewhere, if it's that important!
#22
I assume this mounts similar to the AT version. If I am envisioning it correctly......
See if you can provide some support for the plastic piece from behind to limit the flexing. Cut away any carpet or jute from right behind the pedal area and glue in some small stacked up blocks of wood or so to get just the right height. Avoid gorilla-type pedal pushing after then.
The plastic becomes brittle with age. They probably all started cracking after 10 years or so. Plastic is not designed to last 40 years in car-type environments and they are probably lasting longer than i would have expected.
The other day i filled a 20 year old 5 gallon bucket half full of dirt. Upon picking it up witht he handle, the bucket broke cleanly in half before it got off the ground. when trying to lift it from the bottom edges, the bottom fell out.
So now the bucket has been tilled in with the dirt...
See if you can provide some support for the plastic piece from behind to limit the flexing. Cut away any carpet or jute from right behind the pedal area and glue in some small stacked up blocks of wood or so to get just the right height. Avoid gorilla-type pedal pushing after then.
The plastic becomes brittle with age. They probably all started cracking after 10 years or so. Plastic is not designed to last 40 years in car-type environments and they are probably lasting longer than i would have expected.
The other day i filled a 20 year old 5 gallon bucket half full of dirt. Upon picking it up witht he handle, the bucket broke cleanly in half before it got off the ground. when trying to lift it from the bottom edges, the bottom fell out.
So now the bucket has been tilled in with the dirt...
#24
Just find yourself some HIPS or PP the same color and stitch over or put in place of the cheap plastic. The stuff they use is not rated for impact values it's going to see, especially if it sees low temperatures. This way it looks original and you have a plastic that works. Just a thought, but you would have to custom order the plastic sheet, but it's doable to be sure.
I'll take the equivalent in olds parts if you have them, preferrably mid-60's???
I'll take the equivalent in olds parts if you have them, preferrably mid-60's???
Last edited by dmcianfa; October 26th, 2010 at 01:31 PM.
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