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Wheel offset and bolt pattern for 66 Oldsmobile 88

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Old December 13th, 2016, 06:23 PM
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Wheel offset and bolt pattern for 66 Oldsmobile 88

Hi all,
This is my first post. I'm hoping to get some guidance on how to proceed with getting new wheels on my 66 Olds 88. I've seen a few different answers on the bolt pattern which I think is due to a change right around the year of my 88. I've seen 5x4.75 bolt pattern responses and 5x5. Can anybody reply definitively with what the bolt pattern is along with what the offset is for the wheels? Also, I'm looking to get a front brake disc brake conversion done. As much as I would like to keep all components stock, it comes down to safety on the road. With getting the brakes converted to disc, would that likely change the wheel offset to accommodate for the rotors and disc brake system? A few questions in here, but all interrelated in terms of how I move forward with both the wheels and brakes and the timing for each. Any help on these questions would be much appreciated. Thanks very much!
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Old December 13th, 2016, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Sledhead
Hi all,
This is my first post. I'm hoping to get some guidance on how to proceed with getting new wheels on my 66 Olds 88. I've seen a few different answers on the bolt pattern which I think is due to a change right around the year of my 88. I've seen 5x4.75 bolt pattern responses and 5x5. Can anybody reply definitively with what the bolt pattern is along with what the offset is for the wheels? Also, I'm looking to get a front brake disc brake conversion done. As much as I would like to keep all components stock, it comes down to safety on the road. With getting the brakes converted to disc, would that likely change the wheel offset to accommodate for the rotors and disc brake system? A few questions in here, but all interrelated in terms of how I move forward with both the wheels and brakes and the timing for each. Any help on these questions would be much appreciated. Thanks very much!
In 1966, Olds made a Jetstar 88 that came with a 5 x 4.75" bolt pattern and a Dynamic 88 and Delta 88, which both came with a 5 x 5" bolt pattern. Which model do you have? The Jetstar VIN will start with 352xxx, the Dynamic with 356xxx, and the Delta with 358xxx. In all cases the offset should be zero or as close to zero as possible.
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Old December 13th, 2016, 10:47 PM
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Hi Joe, Thanks for the reply. I have the Dynamic. I was leaning towards the 5x5, but wasn't comfortable with the varying patterns across models to make the call. I appreciate it. Do you happen to know what the offset would likely be once the front end disc conversion goes in? I assume there needs to be some spacing to accommodate for the rotors and calipers, but maybe not? It would be great if I could stay with the same wheels for front and back so I can rotate them. Thoughts? Thx
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Old December 14th, 2016, 08:13 AM
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Converting to front disc brakes is a little pricey. Look in the full size 88 section for information. Get 1971 to 1976 88/98 5x5 rims to clear disc brakes. Pre 1971 disc brakes rims would be very hard to find.
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Old December 14th, 2016, 08:55 AM
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If you're looking for aftermarket wheels the 5x5" bolt pattern is less common than the 5x4.75". Don't even consider bolt pattern adapters unless you want to loose a wheel while in motion (happened to my father in his 69 Delta 88).
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Old December 14th, 2016, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Sledhead
As much as I would like to keep all components stock, it comes down to safety on the road.
What is the safety problem with the stock brakes?

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric
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Old December 14th, 2016, 10:20 AM
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A low cost alternative if you are looking for steel wheels are Chevy 9C1 Caprice police option wheels from 1994 to 1996. 15" by 7", 5 by 5 bolt pattern, will clear disc brakes, and are very heavy duty. I have used them on my 63 Starfire for years with 235-70-R15 tires and they fit perfectly.
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Old December 14th, 2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
What is the safety problem with the stock brakes?
- Eric
I would ask the same question, seems these days the younger crown thinks stock brakes were junk. I don't remember chronic happenings of 60's and 70's cars crashing due to lack of braking. My 66 Delta was my daily driver for years and the brakes worked VERY WELL and you barely had to exert any pressure on the pedal. For these cars though it is important to replace all 3 rubber brake lines if they are old or original, inspect all metal lines for rust/rot and check for any leaks at the master cylinder and wheel cylinders. If all checks good your brakes are more than adequate. Also make sure the wheel cylinders actually work and are not stuck.

Last edited by Oldsmaniac; December 14th, 2016 at 10:24 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old December 14th, 2016, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
What is the safety problem with the stock brakes?
Originally Posted by Oldsmaniac
I would ask the same question, seems these days the younger crowd thinks stock brakes were junk.
There is no safety problem, and they're not junk. It's just that people look at braking systems back then by the standards of today and assume the worst.

I have a '67 Delta 88 with drums on all four wheels, and the car stops on a dime. Yes, disk brakes are a better design, don't suffer from fade, and that sort of thing, but they were certainly never unsafe, then or now.
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Old December 14th, 2016, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Sledhead
Hi Joe, Thanks for the reply. I have the Dynamic. I was leaning towards the 5x5, but wasn't comfortable with the varying patterns across models to make the call. I appreciate it. Do you happen to know what the offset would likely be once the front end disc conversion goes in? I assume there needs to be some spacing to accommodate for the rotors and calipers, but maybe not? It would be great if I could stay with the same wheels for front and back so I can rotate them. Thoughts? Thx
The offset wants to be near zero for drum or disk. It isn't offset that improves clearance to the calipers, it's the shape of the backside of the wheel. These are A-body 14" wheels, but they illustrate the issue. The LH wheel is a disk brake wheel, the RH is drum-only. Note the difference in the shape of the barrel section to provide more clearance for the caliper. The outside face of the wheel is on the left for both in this photo.

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Old December 14th, 2016, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
If you're looking for aftermarket wheels the 5x5" bolt pattern is less common than the 5x4.75".
Actually, there is a very wide selection of aftermarket wheels in the 5x5" pattern. Most catalogs like Summit or Jegs only show the most common products (namely 5x4.5 and 5x4.75) but if you talk to wheel vendors, you'll find that you can get nearly any wheel you want in the larger pattern. I just bought American Racing Torque Thrust Originals in the 5x5 pattern for my 67 Delta. No problems at all.
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Old December 14th, 2016, 04:02 PM
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Drum brakes are fine if you don't tailgate and pay attention ahead. Unless you rally or race. The trouble is when someone used to having discs then drives a drum car and expects the same.
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Old December 15th, 2016, 05:26 AM
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I bought these from Summit for my 71 98 a few years ago:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...5750/overview/

I wanted the Cragar Soft 8s; however, when I called their 800 number to ask questions about the wheel they were rude. So, I ended up going with a different wheel.
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Old December 16th, 2016, 04:33 AM
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My Turquoise 98 has "police apprehender" wheel cylinders. They are the larger option wheel cylinders, the "police apprehender" is an inside joke about the folk lore about the "internal roll cage" in the police cars. Anytime I did something to my 98 I would call it the "police apprehender package." This 4680# car is @100 mph in the traps on the dragstrip. It stops fine. I feel a quick 2nd run it would still stop good but that 3rd stop could be trouble. Heat is the problem with drums. I let them cool off and I've never had a problem. Jmo.

Last edited by Kennybill; December 16th, 2016 at 02:08 PM. Reason: Change word
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Old December 16th, 2016, 06:20 PM
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The other problem is that a lot of cars on the road these days have 4 wheel disc, some with ABS too

If they can stop shorter than you or faster, unless you leave a lot of room (like enough for someone to cut in), you're in trouble.

The old stuff works great, but a 1966 car is 50 years old and other car's brakes have gotten lots better.

My solution on both my '66 big cars is '70 disc front / stock rear drums with a ~1970 master cylinder. Just for a little margin, I wired the pressure loss switch on the GM hydraulic divider to the 'Brake' light.

The 1968-1969 4 piston olds calipers are unseen by me in 35 years of playing with '66's. Aim at the 1970 1 piston caliper and see if you can find rotors for 1969 or 1970. In 71 eveything changed and nothing fits your '66.

You can go exotic with 4 wheel discs, but the cost of that probably approaches the value of the vehicle.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Cf
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Old December 17th, 2016, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cfair
The 1968-1969 4 piston olds calipers are unseen by me in 35 years of playing with '66's. Aim at the 1970 1 piston caliper and see if you can find rotors for 1969 or 1970.
To clarify, the 67-68 cars used the four-piston calipers. The 69-70 cars used the single piston sliding calipers. Rotors for either setup are nearly impossible to find.
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Old December 17th, 2016, 12:37 PM
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Well done Joe

Joe,
Thanks for the clarification. Since I've never seen them, I got the 4 pot caliper year wrong.

And to confirm the rotors are really hard to find. I looked for years for a spare set and finally got them last year for $300. And was glad to have them.

Rear drums of that vintage are getting scarce too.

It's occurred to me that sooner or later I might need to switch to chevy parts just to keep the olds on the road... but not for a long while yet.

Cheers
Cf
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