Arrowstorm

Ever since my original tailgate motor went out back in November of last year, I've had nothing but problems with my tailgate.

First, I determined that it was, in fact, the motor that had gone bad, so I got a Cardone window motor that was exactly the same as the old one except for the mounting posts were too long. I cut them down a bit so that they were the same length from the casing as the old one.

At first, the window worked just fine. Until one day, the screws that held the little gear that works the regulator to the gear that is worked by the worm in the motor sheared their heads. This was remedied by new machine screws, and again, for a few weeks the window worked fine.

Until one day, the regulator roller on the driver's side wore out. I SEEM to have fixed that permanently, though.

But low and behold, once again, the machine screws in the gear mechanism sheared their heads! So this time, I went with something stronger than stainless steel and went to Fastenal and got Zinc machine screws.

That worked fine until I decided to just rebuild the window tracks with new felt and all that. Everything went fine and I put everything back together after I rebuilt the tracks and I worked the window up and down; up and down to make sure it would last another 43 years when all of a sudden, the gear sheared the machine screw heads AGAIN! So I replaced them. Again.

Has anyone else experience this much headache over their tailgate? Am I doing something wrong?

Also, sometimes when I bolt the motor onto the regulator bracket, the teeth for the gear don't connect fully with the regulator teeth and when I work the motor, it doesn't move and I can hear the teeth rubbing together; missing. This is remedied by nudging the motor as close to the regulator as I possibly can and torquing the mounting bolts pretty tight.

I have the fisher body manual for this car, but can't really find anything on the particulars of this motor; nor have I been able to really find anything on net.

AS of yesterday, I have brand new zinc screws in the gear assembly, greased to hell and back, of course, the motor nudged tightly against the regulator and mount and torqued rather tightly and the motor works fine. But to be honest, I expect something to go wrong in a month or so.

Any insight into the particulars of tailgate windows will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Buz

Arrowstorm

Some pictures of the screws and regulator gear assembly.

2blu442

I'm sorry your having the problems you are. I've had several wagons and never dealt with this. If the only thing you changed was the motor I'd be suspicious that's the problem. I might try a good used motor to see if that would fix it for you. John

Greg Rogers

x2

Arrowstorm

After a few pints friday night after seeing this issue arise yet again, I thought the same. The only thing different, really, was the motor.

So I pulled the motor and looked it over well and took some measurements and discovered that the mounting stud closest to the casing was STILL 1mm too long! I still have the old motor, so I took exact measurements and shaved the new studs down to the exact measurements of the old casing. I don't know why I didn't do that to begin with. Perhaps I thought I could let it go just in case I needed to make adjustments.

I used the window all day yesterday at a car show and all morning and not only does it seem to operate even smoother, I have not had this issue arise again.

One Millimeter off.

Perhaps this will also help with the gear assembly screws shearing, somehow.

oldcutlass

You might go to a flat socket head cap screw next time. They are harder.

willys33

I found a place called South Florida Window Lifts (Ft. Lauderdale, Fl.) a couple of years ago. I called them regarding my 67 Vista rear window motor. As it turned out, a good cleaning and some new window felt has it working good now. They said they have the parts to rebuild the motor and he told me specifically not to use a door motor. They are not strong enough for that big tailgate glass. Anyway, if you're interested in getting your original redone, you might want to call them at 800 552-4413. They said cost would be $65-$100 and they have a 72 hour turnaround time. Hope that helps.

Arrowstorm

I actually did all that myself. I took the tracks out and cleaned them up and repainted them and glued new felt inside. I also glued a new felt strip to the streak-guard.

Like I said in my last post, I took the motor out and shaved 1mm off one of the studs and a little bit off of all the rest and I have had zero problems with it since then. The new motor I got was a Cordone which was exactly the same as my old one aside from the length of the mounting studs.

Part of the problem I was having that I neglected to mention that also, sometimes the little brushing that is inserted into the regulator would pop out. This, combined with the teeth rattling due to the 1mm off mounting stud has led me to believe that that little 1mm is rather important. I think that put enough stress on the whole operation to throw it off like it did.

I haven't had any problems since then.

Arrowstorm

Posting a follow up to this thread. After many moons of my tailgate window working flawlessly (after repairing the lift motor gear a couple of times), that old gear finally gave out.

I knew it was going out because there was a delay in the operation of the window for a couple of days and then finally, I heard that old "Whirrrrrrr" of the motor without any movement. That means the gear gave out, and so I took it apart expecting to replace the two screws that hold the assembly together.

No joy. One screw and nut were GONE and the other one was up inside the assembly. Not sure what was causing the tension there. Perhaps, just the fact that it's a 44 year old plastic part?

Anyway, bought a new one after looking for a while to find out what that part is actually called. It's called a "Window lift motor gear" and no, no auto parts store will carry it. I finally found a generic one on ebay for about $30 and bought it. It's on the way now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/351825023135

I'll post about any fitment issues or anything like that I encounter. Should be straight, though. This one looks very different and more heavy duty for sure, but it's measurements and engineering is correct.

Here's to another 44 years of flawless tailgate window operation!!

Yellowstatue

As Wiiys33 said, a door motor is not the same as a tailgate motor, although they look the same. You had to modify the door motor mountings to fit your tailgate. The tailgate motor is also stronger. I bought a Vista in the 1900's and the person I bought it from said he removed the tailgate motor for usage in a wheel chair repair.

Arrowstorm

No, actually it's the exact same motors. Every parts site specifies that the tailgate motor is also used in one of the doors. It's just the orientation that is different depending on what side of the car it's going on. The only thing I modified were the mounting studs. I think that place probably tells people that to get the sale on a rebuild, which is costlier than or costs as much as a new/reman motor, I might add.

Trust me, the new motor is PLENTY strong enough. In fact, when it works, it works better than the old one ever did.

I think things will be just fine with the new lift gear.

Arrowstorm

This update is for anyone reading this in the future.

If you buy a new window motor and you find that the studs are too long like I did, you NEED to purchase a new "window motor lift gear" as well.

By shaving the mounting studs down so that the teeth in the original lift gear could meet up with the regulator, I guaranteed that no modern lift gear like the dorman or cardone gears will fit because the shaft AND the regulator gear will be too long. By exactly the amount that I shaved off the mounting studs!!! Lol.

I have two options. I messed up a little on one gear and cut the shaft too short, but it works for now, so I have another one coming. I can either

a) take the new gear apart and cut the regulator drive gear down by half (the thickness of the oem gear, as the "new" gear is about double that) and shave the spindle ever so slightly, or

b) shore up the mounting brackets on the motor with either some washers or something and get longer bolts.

I know a little about machining though. If you don't... just get the new drive gear with the new motor and you should be fine.

Sigh. Here's to another 44 years of smooth operation on the tailgate window!!!..... again.

tcolt

I like this thread and your persistence. After all this please don't forget to give us the final update that everything is fine in a few months :-)...