Adjusting linkage
#1
Adjusting linkage
Hey guys,
I finally found a spring for my downshift linkage. Cost me $56!! Anyway, I have it installed and I'm trying to adjust the kickdown to the book but I'm not sure I'm understanding it. The book says to bring it to wide open and then extend the trans rod as far as it will go and adjust the stop screw to hit the tang when it goes as far as it will. Well mine will extend all the way and stop at the screw hole! So I could take the screw out and it would still stop before it seems to max out. The car runs and shifts great. Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks!
I finally found a spring for my downshift linkage. Cost me $56!! Anyway, I have it installed and I'm trying to adjust the kickdown to the book but I'm not sure I'm understanding it. The book says to bring it to wide open and then extend the trans rod as far as it will go and adjust the stop screw to hit the tang when it goes as far as it will. Well mine will extend all the way and stop at the screw hole! So I could take the screw out and it would still stop before it seems to max out. The car runs and shifts great. Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks!
#2
Okay so I figured it all out and adjusted everything. My linkage was so far off on every adjustment it wasn't even funny! What was funny was besides the downshift not working it shifted amazing. I haven't driven it since I have adjusted it to spec, but I am hoping it will still drive good! The linkage from the carb to the firewall was off by over double the distance it should be, and the two rods for the trans were off quite a bit too!
#3
Did you check the link rods, bell crank and other accelerator linkage parts for wear grooves and ovaling. I welded the grooves and holes an redriiled for smoother action. I guess bushings did not come along until later.
#4
I actually don't seem to have any binding it's all pretty smooth. Maybe could use a couple more shims as it's a tad bit loose but judging by the book and talking about pulling on linkage to remove slack when adjusting im guessing it was like that from the start.
#8
The distance is 6 3/4" from back of trans case to center of hole on lever. Adjustment is made with special tool J-2029 that makes controlled bend in the arm to set distance. Also check that your throttle arm shaft from trans to carb linkage is not been bent or modified.
#9
Thanks but I have a jetaway not sure if it's the same. Would love to check the rod but don't have measurements to go off of. I tried to tighten up the big and little trans rods instead of all on just one in case one is more progressive I would keep it as close as possible.
#11
It's okay. Had a doul coupling Hydramatic in my 55 Pontiac.. they are stronger than the Jetaway but even rebuilt they don't shift as smooth as these Jetaways.. at least the ones I've been in.. still great transmissions when you think about it. 60 years later going strong.. The Hydramatic was used in WW2 in tanks so you know it has to be strong lol!
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June 30th, 2008 01:01 PM