fatback

got a question for all you guys that changed over to pertronix ignition. what else did you have to change. the coil I'm sure, how bout the plugs? plug wires? cap? rotor? do you gap the plugs wider?

redoldsman

I changed to the Pertronix coil which I believe is about 40,000 volts. There is no need to change wires. I did widen the gap on my plugs to about 40 thousandths which is probably not necessary. The basic Pertronix is not an HEI but rather a breakerless ignition. Just be sure the cap, wires and rotor and in good condition and you should be good to go.

oldcutlass

All tuneup settings remain the same as do the ignition parts. It is a points replacement set up, so all your accomplishing is not having to set points periodically. Use the coil that goes with the pertronics ignition you select.

jaunty75

Nothing.

Remember, as noted by oldcutlass, all you've done is change the points to an electronic system. You have NOT changed to electronic ignition. So all other settings (timing, plug gap) and components (plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap) remain the same.

I did this conversion on both my '67 Delta 88 and '73 Custom Cruiser (which I no longer own). It was not difficult in either case, and both cars run like a top.

MDchanic

What Eric and Jaunty said.

- Eric

rcorrigan5

X2 or 3 now. I did the same thing with my '68 4-4-2 (in 2010) and '71 Corvette (in 2003). Coils are original for both and plugs and wires are replacements for the originals. No problems.


Randy C.

oldsmobiledave

I was told that Pertronix ignition requires that you run their coil. Is that correct or not?

brown7373

X4. I have converted numerous cars and only once changed to the Pertronix coil, on a 69 Vette 350/350 11:1 compression and 6000 red line. I always used a new distributor cap and rotor and did new plugs, and stock wires if they needed replacement. They DO NOT deliver more power, but rather maintain a fresh tune up all the time.

oldcutlass

It was the same for Pertronix I The resistance wire can be used in place of the resistor for stock coil, and bypassed for flame thrower coil.

MDchanic

Not.

- Eric

oldcutlass

If you want to get a bit more power, I recommend using theirs as you can run a full 12v.

redoldsman

The Pertronix coil only cost $40.00. That is pretty cheap insurance to me.

fatback

thanks fellers

MDchanic

Not to bust your chops too much, but...

Insurance against what?

You're replacing an American-made GM factory coil that's performed well for half a century with a new Chinese-made (Pertronix does not list country of origin for its coils on its web site, so we can ASSume) coil that is claimed to be better in advertising materials.

If you want to run one of those coils, that's certainly your choice, but I'd hesitate to believe that they are necessarily more reliable.

- Eric

redoldsman

Chops not busted Eric. You do make a good point. Often times I will buy rebuilt over new since the new is going to be Chinese made. I would rather have a good rebuilt USA made unit than a Chinese made one. I had not thought of the made in China aspect.

68-W46

Anyone wired one to an MSD box? What do you do with the resistor wire?

oldcutlass

You would just tape/cap and stow the resistance wire.

My442

Pertronix recommends a full 12 volts to the unit. 2 ways to accomplish:

1. Easier Way - Run a fused wire from the IGN spade on the fuse block to the coil.

2. Cleaner Way - Pull the engine harness and replace the resistor wire with a regular wire.

3. Best Way - Call M&H Electrical and have them make you an engine harness with the "HEI" modification.

68-W46

thanks good info.....want to put one in my 67....

anthonyP

Even though it has the preventive overload feature so if you accidently leave the ignition in the on position and the adaptive dwell & start-up sensors, is the Pertronix Ignitor II worth the extra cost over the Ignitor I?

MDchanic

The Pertronix III needs no separate trigger magnet - fewer parts = fewer failure points.

- Eric

Mark57

I put the ignitor III and flame thrower III in my 57 Oldsmobile and have been happy with the results. I did put a new distributor cap, plugs and wires on because it was time.

Mark

fatback

so for my 55 324, which pertronix do I need, 1,2,or 3?

redoldsman

fatback, I am running a 1 in my 54 and it works perfectly.

MDchanic

We've all just told you our opinions on that.

- Eric

allyolds68

And you get a Rev limiter

droldsmorland

Nobody has mentioned grounds yet so Ill get on my soap box....GROUNDS. Check them all. The module will be the first thing to go if the grounds are not there and in good shape. Run a dedicated ground from block to frame to firewall back to the battery neg to insure proper operation and longevity of the new module and everything else in the car that depends on 12VDC.

Eightbanger

More great info.

zii

I don't think this is true?

If you take a coil that is made for use with resistor and connect it properly through the resistor, and then compare it to a coil that is made for use with full 12 volts and connect this one without a resistor, they should normally give out the same voltage to the spark plugs.

So what's the point of the resistor?

When you start the car, the starter motor draws a lot of amps, and the battery voltage goes lower than the 12 (well, 13.2) volts it usually has.

This causes your 12V coil to get too low voltage and can make your car more difficult to start.

The coil with the resistor however, should, if properly connected, have a bypass wire that now feeds it power without going through the resistor, and therefore the resistored coil will suffer much less from the dropped voltage and your car should be easier to start than with the 12V coil.

So all the manufacturers that put coils with resistors on your cars from factory didn't do it just to mess with you. :P

That being said, I'm not exactly an expert on high performance coils, so I actually have no idea if they too are available with resistors, or if they use other means (capacitors?) to keep your car easy to start.

oldcutlass

I was referring to running volts in my statement. There are many different coils with different output voltages.

MDchanic

The ballast resistor is also there as an essential component of the LRC circuit (Inductance, Resistance, Capacitance) of the coil/points/condenser system. Its resistance varies predictably, and significantly, with temperature, which allows it to "self-adjust" to keep the LRC circuit tuned at various RPMs.

A "resistorless" coil very likely has a similar resistor inside of its case.

- Eric

Mark57

Just to add to this;
After running the Pertronix last season the one thing I noticed this spring is the amount of carbon on the tail pipe. It has basically disappeared and when I ran a can of carb cleaner through it the output was very clean compared to when I had run a can through prior to the Pertronix. That being said I have also been running Lucas Gas additive which could be keeping the combustion chamber cleaner as well. From what I have read if you have a hotter burning spark you should have a cleaner burn, this is what sold me on the III set up.My gas mileage did slightly improve but nothing worth boasting about.
I felt that the ease of the install and the results I have seen it was worth the extra money going to the III set up.

Mark

cmpcpro

I just bought the 2 for my 56, I would have bought the 3 but it wasn't available for my car.. I think 57 or 8 is the first year it does..