Oldsr4me

I have a '49 76 with a Hydra-Matic. Engine runs great but I'm having a problem with the transmission.
The car hadn't been driven in several years before I bought it. At first, the car seemed to begin in one of the high gears. It might be I wasn't used to driving a car this slow in a while.
I've put on a couple hundred miles since I bought it a month ago. I'm now used to the slower takeoff but I read that if I started in Low, I would go through 1st and 2nd gear, and shifting into Drive would take me through 3rd and 4th.
Low gear stays in 1st gear, and if I start in Drive it seems to go 1st, 3rd, and 4th skipping 2nd gear. I checked the fluid and it was full. I added a pint of that additive good for breaking in new clutch plates hoping it was a sticky clutch plate, but no luck.
Fastco has most of the parts I need for an overhaul for about $400 and an old tranny mechanic wants about $1200 to do the overhaul. I tried to get him to do a band adjustment and he refused saying it was internal. The tranny is leaking.
Am I being ripped off? I live in the Bay Area, and I can't find any shops familiar with the old Hydra-Matic.
Any Ideas?

Rocketowner

If you don't have the Olds shop manual for the '49 , find one, it will have a considerable amount of Info and explanations about your transmission.The throttle linkage controls the timing of the shifts and is adjustable at the carburetor.The manual will cover all adjustments,especially those that can be done from the outside. Larry

Charlie Jones

Your first step should be to get your hands on a 49 Olds shop manual. Your problem may be related to throttle to trans linkage adjustment. The shop manual will tell you how to check or adjust it.
Second, drain and re-fill the trans with new fluid. Use the current Dextron, not synthetic.
Do not use any additives . The bottom pan has a drain plug and there are also two drain plugs on the torque converter. It should take about 11 quarts to re-fill.
I doubt your problem is due to band adjustment . And the "old timer " is wrong . The bands can be adjusted externally without disassembly, although it requires special tools.
I'm not sure on this, so check it in your 1949 shop manual when you get one. But I believe some early Hydra-Matics started in second gear and low gear was only accessed by manually shifting to low. I could be wrong so check the shop manual. 49 Olds shop manuals are usually for sale on E-Bay.
Where is the leak? You should be able to repair the leak by replacing a seal or a pan gasket, without disassembling the whole trans.

Rocketowner

The starting in second gear was not Until 1950.They blocked the low gear because of complaints that on the '49 V-8's would spin tires too easily. I had a '50 and my two brothers unblocked the transmission making it just like the 1949 transmission,and sure enough,it would squeal tires anytime you were taking off without "feather footing it" Oh by the way, that's a great looking '49. Larry

Oldsr4me

[QUOTE=Rocketowner;865790]The starting in second gear was not Until 1950.They blocked the low gear because of complaints that on the '49 V-8's would spin tires too easily. I had a '50 and my two brothers unblocked the transmission making it just like the 1949 transmission,and sure enough,it would squeal tires anytime you were taking off without "feather footing it" Oh by the way, that's a great looking '49. Larry[/QUOTE

Mine is the original flat head six. 115 of raging horsepower.
I'm ordering a manual I found on Craigslist for $20.00. Otherwise I can probably find something online.
I may go ahead and have the seals done and fill it back up with Dextron II. I believe I read that's the correct one to use.
I can tackle the throttle linkage, but the bands are a little too much for me.
Bob

d2_willys

I have a 50 Olds 98 that indeed starts in 2nd while in DR. How do you unlock it? Does it have something to do with G1 governor, or is it in the valve body?

d2_willys

Your problem may be in the valve body or governor or both. 2nd gear is one band on and one clutch on. If you have 1st gear, then both bands are applied. If you have 4th gear then both clutches are applied. Sounds to me it is not bands or clutches, but in valve body or governor.

Rocketowner

Could be in the valve body or governor ,as stated above.I remember my brothers talking about valve body and governor problems on the early Hydramatics ( they rebuilt these for several years on a regular basis).Theres a large Internet site (autotrans.us/HMRAdj1.html)that addresses the 1949- 1955 Hydramatic Transmissions completely.It should be of help. Just to let you know how tough the Hydramatics were ,there were over 25000 of them used in Army tanks following World War 11. Larry

Oldsr4me

They must have been very versatile, because I can't believe a standard Hydra-matic would have done the job. It had to be "Juiced' up.
I never got involved with transmissions...manual or automatics, so I'd be out of my realm trying to adjust one of these puppies. I might try messing with the idle speeds and throttle adjustments.

Rocketowner

Concerning The Tanks,they were Equipped with 2 Cadillac Engines and 2 Hydramatic Transmissions. My brother was in the Army stationed in Korea,and that's where he was taught how to rebuild them. As far as I know, they were just stock Hydramatics. Larry

Oldsr4me

That's interesting, because from what I've read an HM tranny from a six will not work on a V8. They're supposedly not interchangeable.

Rocketowner

They were probably using mid 50's trannies (V-8's)because in think he went in service around 1954. Larry

Charlie Jones

The tanks you are referring to were "Chaffee" tanks produced during WWII by Cadillac and The Massey-Harris Co.
They were probably still in service in 1954.

Frank Allen

[QUOTE=Charlie Jones;865742]Your first step should be to get your hands on a 49 Olds shop manual. Your problem may be related to throttle to trans linkage adjustment. The shop manual will tell you how to check or adjust it.
Second, drain and re-fill the trans with new fluid. Use the current Dextron, not synthetic.
Do not use any additives . The bottom pan has a drain plug and there are also two drain plugs on the torque converter. It should take about 11 quarts to re-fill.
I doubt your problem is due to band adjustment . And the "old timer " is wrong . The bands can be adjusted externally without disassembly, although it requires special tools.
I'm not sure on this, so check it in your 1949 shop manual when you get one. But I believe some early Hydra-Matics started in second gear and low gear was only accessed by manually shifting to low. I could be wrong so check the shop manual. 49 Olds shop manuals are usually for sale on E-Bay.
Where is the leak? You should be able to repair the leak by replacing a seal or a pan gasket, without disassembling the whole tr

Frank Allen

Larry, you are right, early hydramatics started out in second gear, I had a mech do something to mine and it shifted all 4, the linkage from the carb to trans mission adjust ment often changes shift times 2-3 shift, can change with age, and skip second altogether going into second and to third instantly, if adjusted too short can stay in second gear a really long time. They told me back yrs ago I needed a rebuild and all it was is athat adjustment, went on to drive the car 100,000 miles without any transmission problem
Frank Allen

Frank Allen

These transmissions were used in 18 wheel trucks , GM buses early 50 s used in all kinds of things, they were tough. our school bought a new GM bus and a 6 cyl and hydramatic, ran for the next 20 yrs that I know of without maj reapirs including transmission. was told it was the same as the one used in the cars. I like them
Frank Allen

Frank Allen

wis I could answer your question, it can be done in a few minutes by a competent hydramatic mech, ill try to find out for you , I know a old timer that can tell me if I can find him. what ever he did it was a easy fast fix
Frank Allen

redoldsman

Part of the problem with these old hydramatics is finding anybody that knows anything about them and can work on them. Remember they have not built them for over 50 years. If the guy is taking it in and out of you car and rebuilding it for $1,200, you are getting a fair deal. I have found an older guy in Fort Worth that will rebuild mine in my 54 for about $$1,300-$1,400. That does not include the R&R of the transmission. He does not use any Chinese parts. He son who has a transmission shop charges about $400 to R&R the transmission. This is going over to him soon. Mine is not out but it leaks and shifts real funky. It goes about 10 feet in first and then shifts into second. If I put it in low to start, it will still shift into second automatically. I do most of the stuff on my car but this is one I want done correctly while there is still somebody around locally to do it.

Frank Allen

You are right about not many know what to do with hydramatic s and if you think yours shifts funky get it done, as for putting it in low and still shifting to second , it is suppose to do that and if you were to hold your foot in it it will wind up in second and shift to third and at 70 mph will shift to fourth, they are made like that. in the 50 2 the mechics charged 45.00 to R and R them, about 400 would get you rolling again, but believe me these transmissions will take a tremendous amout of abuse. tested a few of them yrs ago and was unable to tear it up.Frank Allen

Ozzie

I agree with getting a copy of the Oldsmobile Service Manual for your exact year. It will be the best value for the cost.
Here's another manual which I have used for years:


It's a bit pricey at Amazon, but an excellent source if you can find it for a better price.

Oldsr4me

I found a manual on line and it's great, although a bit dated when it comes to fluids.
I finally got a chance to get into my '49 coupe 76. I'm restoring two '56 BelAir hard tops, And I had a couple of nagging problems with my '42 Merc.
Fixed the Merc this morning and the '56's are near complete, so I was able to spend some time on the coupe today. What I thought was a transmission leak, may be a leaking oil pan gasket...duh!!!
Replacing it doesn't seem like any easy task. It almost seems like the engine has to be pulled out.
The shocks and the steering box have got to be dry. I'm wondering if 80-90 weight gear oil will work for the steering box. I couldn't figure out the front shocks, and I haven't even looked at the rears. Also wondering if tube shocks can be used all around.
I want a dual master cylinder and front disc brakes, but I haven't begun to look for what's available..
Other than that, rechrome bumpers, polish trim, and repaint top to a burgundy color.
Pictured are my four cars. My '49 Olds 98 convertible is still in it's basket case state.
Thanks for the help.
Bob

Ozzie

I don't have the '49 shop manual. The one for '55 asks for SAE 80 Multipurpose Gear Lubricant for the steering gear, so your suggestion should work well if '49 is the same. But if yours is dry there might be a leak. When they got to '65 they put grease in the steering gear boxes. That probably leaked less.

Tedd Thompson

As a broke kid we filled our leaky knee action shocks with type A transmission fluid and it worked fine. Anything thicker and the shocks would bind up and not work. Best thing of course is to have them rebuilt, not cheap though.... Tedd

Oldsr4me

I've seen the design for these shocks, and they seem a lot more complex than the ones on my '42 Merc. I like the design, and I think in good operating condition I wouldn't have to think about converting them over to tube style shocks.
On that note, is it possible to install a tube shock inside, or in place of the coil springs?

Oldsr4me

IMG_7868.JPG

Ready To Roll 09-29-16.jpgFinally getting my baby back after five months. I'll be bringing it home tomorrow.
First the tranny was worked on for three months. It was overhauled, torn apart again and reassembled at least two or three times. It was shifting through all four gears but the shifts were really hard. Harder than usual. That was finally fixed, then it wouldn't kick down. More recalibration. Finally got it working right after three months.
Then over to my buddy Rudy's place to overhaul the brakes, suspension, and steering system. Bumpers went out to get chromed and reinstalled.
Car is now finished. Big Six Engine has been overhauled, and now operates on a 12volt system. It's been upholstered and re painted, but needs a headliner, tires and radio. Heater is also non op.
This puppy is running good!!! I'm Happy!
Bob

jamestank

Sounds like an internal problem. If it's leaking you're gonna have to pull it any way.
Could be a stuck shift valve or a shift adjustment..

jamestank

Spring in the valve body. Remove "fat" spring in the middle of the body to make 1st gear start.
I did mine and it works great..