rctoyguy

Just completed full motor and trans rebuild - did the motor at home, had a local "do it all" shop rebuild the transmission. He has adjusted linkages and whatever else can be adjusted to the point he says it's as good as it will get, but it still shifts really hard *most* of the time, especially if I'm off the throttle.

I don't expect it to shift like my 2013 F150, but I'd think it should be pretty darned smooth - shouldn't it? This is my first adventure bringing back an old car from the brink of death, so I'm not real sure what to expect. By the way, the motor is smooth as silk and strong as an ox.

Olds Dad

The 1-2 and 3-4 shifts should be pretty smooth. The 2-3 shift on most Hydramatics is usually much more noticeable but can be fine tuned by someone who knows what they're doing. There are pretty complicated internal band adjustments that require special J-tools that are very hard to find and only a few transmission shops have these tools - requests to beg, borrow, or steal these tools are common on forums like this one because you can't get it right without them. I'm speculating, but I'd be willing to bet that this shop doesn't have access to them. If you have a service manual there is a pretty detailed desription of these adjustments. It very well may be 'as good as it's gonna get' from that shop - I would make some calls and specifically ask trans shops if they have the ability to properly adjust dual range (a.k.a "slant pan") Hydramatics. These are bullet proof units if properly adjusted and should make your "strong as an ox" 324 rip the pavement up

rctoyguy

Kinda what I thought.. I've found a real transmission shop close to home that I'm going to take it to this afternoon. I hope it's just adjustments that won't cost me another fortune or take weeks to complete. The original rebuild guy took for-ever to get it done, and it's still obviously not right. I'm just done dealing with him.

Ozzie

While harsh shifting can be caused by several things, the best places to start looking are the band adjustments and the throttle lever (linkage) adjustments. The band adjustments can be performed by removing the pan and using the following tools:
Front band: Kent-Moore J-1693-A or J-1693-B or Bonney 27030.
Rear band: Kent-Moore J-1460-A or J-5071 or Bonney 27040.
The procedures are shown in the Olds shop manual and the Hydramatic Transmission Service Manual (Paul Marsh HM-1001). I don't know of any way to do an accurate adjustment without these tools. Perhaps it can be done by someone thoroughly familiar with the Hydramatic without the tools, but I wouldn't trust it to the inexperienced.
I have a 1955 Hydramatic, and have made the adjustments with these tools. It shifts smoothly.
The throttle linkage adjustment tools are K.M. J-5605 & J-2029 or New Britain ATL-3B. Both manuals show the procedure. A "universal" throttle lever gauge is K.M. J-6188 or New Britain ATL-2B. If the throttle lever has been set approximately correct, you may be able to get the rod length done by trial & error. Keep in mind that this controls shift point speeds as well as downshifts. Best wishes.

rctoyguy

I dropped the car off at an Aamco transmission shop yesterday. The guy that's working on it has experience with Hydramatics - he drove it and agrees that it isn't right and says that he's confident he can fix it. Guess I'll see.

Olds Scott

These pictures might help with your search. The tool with the socket is for the older trans with the adjustment from inside the car. I still have not found the gauge for adjusting the shifting linkage, might have to make

Frank Allen

I had a 54 rebuilt and when I got it back it shifted rough, the mech told me it would be ok after driving it a while, it did and was just fine, as for the throttle linkage I used to adjust that myself, shorter makes shifts slower, longer quicker, you just drive and check until you get the shift points apced out about the same while holding throttle steady going through the gears. they stay adjusted pretty good.
Frank Allen

redoldsman

I can't believe you found somebody at Aamco that knew anything about a hydra-matic. These old transmissions can be pretty funky.

Frank Allen

I agree, my experience with ammco has definitely not been good.
Frank Allen

rctoyguy

Funny this thread comes back up... Friday I took mine back to the AAMCO that did the adjustments. They told me when they originally did it that they wanted it back at 1,000 miles to relook at things.
I don't think it's right - it's much rougher than I think it should be. Especially off throttle upshifts and pretty much all downshifts. Jarringly rough.
I'll see how they do with it this time, then I'm probably going to start seeing what "more modern" transmission can be dropped in.

Rocketowner

Just read the new Hemmings issue and someone wrote to Jim Howe that he had a street rod with the 302 CI Olds /Hydramatic and was wanting to go to another transmission.His advice was to call Tony @Ross Racing,and said they had fitment to a Turbo Hydromatic 350, 400 or 700-R4(with overdrive). Might call him @ 330-544-4466. Larry

oldcutlass

X2 for Ross racing.

redoldsman

Tony is a good guy. They make a kit including the transmission that is about $2,800 if I remember correctly. I don't know how you get the shift indicator to work since it is electric on the early Oldmobiles. I actually thought about doing this on my 54 but have decided to have the hydra-matic rebuilt and I have found somebody to do it.

Tedd Thompson

I wouldn't swap out the transmission unless it was damaged somehow by the re builder. If you can find someone who knows these transmissions and get it adjusted correctly, they are great tough bullet proof transmissions that will last the life of the engine. Maybe not quite as smooth as a modern transmissions but much better suited for getting that heavy car off the line with it's very low first gear.It's hard to beat a 4 speed hydramatic .... Tedd

redoldsman

I agree with you completely Tedd. These were what the original B&M Hydo's were built from. Besides, it is just part of the personality of the car.

Frank Allen

suggest you stay with the hydramatic, when you get it right you will love it, it is tougher than the ones they have now, and it probably would be a ton of work to adapt to the 324m also will take away from the value, like my friend has a lovely 56 with a chevy engine and 350 automatic, what a way to devalue this lovely car. just a opinion.

rctoyguy

Part of my problem is that I don't guess I know what it "should" feel like. I can't imagine that it is right now. I don't expect it to shift like a new Honda, but it's pretty bad at this point.
When I get it back, I'll shoot a video with a go-pro cam mounted to the dash or something so you can see/hear what I do and see what yall think. Wish I had thought to do this already.

d2_willys

Given the symptoms, perhaps the mainline pressure regulator is set too high and allowing more oil pressure to hit band servos and annular clutch pistons. I would have the mechanic hook a gauge to the mainline port, which is near the front of transmission on drivers side. The pressure regulator is the huge hex plug in that area. The mainline port is nearby and is an 1/8th inch pipe plug.

rctoyguy

They basically said that they can't do anything with it - but I have found a connection to a local guy that is supposed to be an old Olds guru. Hoping to hook up with him to let him drive it and tell me what it needs.

rctoyguy

Haven't done anything with this yet - still haven't found anyone that has a clue about working on this thing. But, I did have a thought while I'm grasping at straws... could the transmission fluid I'm using cause any of this? I don't know what was originally in it, the shop that did the rebuild said it had whale blubber in it. I took that to mean it was just gunked up (it had been parked for almost 40 years) but maybe I need thicker/heavier fluid? I know NOTHING about trans fluid, obviously. It currently has Castrol Transmax DEX/MERC on the recommendation of my engine rebuild guy.

Tedd Thompson

The early hydra-matics did have fluid made from whale oil but you won't find that anymore. We now use any one of the Dextron transmission fluids #1,2 or 3 or what ever number they are at now they all work fine. Probably what you have in there now will be good also.

As what D2Willy said above you probably have poorly adjusted pressure that is causing hard shifting both up and down.

Though not as smooth as a modern transmission these transmissions were used successfully by many auto manufactures for a number of years including Royal Royce. You just need someone that knows how to set up your transmission and not jerk you around.... MHO... Tedd