problems....

[punishercarr]

hey guys

i have an issues with my 1965 88 dynamic, i just had the egine rebuild, 425 and the trans, new intake manifold, duals system, carb, cam, the works,

but i still having and issue with my car stalling out after long drives, hard driving, and while turing sharp. i dont know what it could be.
additioanlly, my second problem is my idel is great but when i shift to drive of a another gear... is drastically dropps. i have had a thorque converter put on it due the new performan cam... but still have the same problem..
thirdly, my valcum has seem to be not workign becuase my break are stiff as heck; though i had a new brake system put in.

my car guy, told be that soem one told him that my year olds, can with a switch on the trans that turns onthe coverter that could not working and resulding in the idel issue. the other issues i just dont know.
can anyone help me out.

[Olds64]

As far as I know the early big blocks with the TH 400 had a switch pitch torque converter. This torque converter had a variable pitch stator in it that allowed for more torque multiplication at lower RPM (i.e. when taking off from a stop). I am not sure how the switch pitch torque converter is actuated but this could be part of your problem that your mechanic mentioned.

Also, if you are having stalling problems when turning corners I would suggest checking the float level on your carburetor.

BTW, what kind of carburetor do you have on it? You mentioned that everything is new... is the carburetor new or rebuilt?

[Modern Motoring]

Originally Posted by punishercarr

hey guys

i have an issues with my 1965 88 dynamic, i just had the egine rebuild, 425 and the trans, new intake manifold, duals system, carb, cam, the works,

but i still having and issue with my car stalling out after long drives, hard driving, and while turing sharp. i dont know what it could be.
additioanlly, my second problem is my idel is great but when i shift to drive of a another gear... is drastically dropps. i have had a thorque converter put on it due the new performan cam... but still have the same problem..
thirdly, my valcum has seem to be not workign becuase my break are stiff as heck; though i had a new brake system put in.

my car guy, told be that soem one told him that my year olds, can with a switch on the trans that turns onthe coverter that could not working and resulding in the idel issue. the other issues i just dont know.
can anyone help me out.

Your spelling and grammar makes my head hurt.

[J-(Chicago)]

LMAO! @ that.

[rocketraider]

If you still have the 4GC carb, float level is probably set a little low. Try raising it 1/16" at a time until the cornering stall goes away. Those are also really sensitive to which gasket is between the throttle body and float bowl; wrong gasket can create a vacuum leak that will wreak havoc with driveability on an engine that requires a different gasket, but work great on another engine.

A switch-pitch converter stuck in wrong angle can definitely cause idle stalling problems, but you say you've replaced it. Did you use an aftermarket non-SP converter or another switch pitch? You also say a lot has been changed on the engine. If you have say an Edelbrock carb or a QuadraJet in place of the 4GC, the throttle linkage needs to be adjusted for that carb because it will affect the switch-pitch converter angle switch (it's in the round thing with wires that is on your throttle linkage at back of the engine).

Also possible your brake booster diaphram is leaking causing a vacuum leak and hard brake pedal.

Last- how much cam did you put in this engine? Big cams cause low vacuum and all kinds of driveability problems unless everything else is matched to it. You need to make sure you have the correct angle cam for your 425. Most 65-67 big-blocks were 45 degree cams; Toronados and some of the 400s used the later-style 39 degree cam.

[Olds64]

I would also suggest using a vacuum gauge on your engine and seeing how much vacuum your engine creates at idle. You can adjust the idle mixture screws to improve your vacuum if it isn't acceptable. Let us know what you find out if you do this.

[punishercarr]

thanks everyone, the update is this...
my car guy, adam took the entire carb off checked it and tunded it... still stalling out. the breack pedal is still stiff as a rock, the ideal is still dropping.

i now i did have the trans rebuilt, such the switch pitch still be on there are should i order a new one? if not where can i buy or find one?

additionally, my guy, also thinks the cam my rebuilders put in the engine is too big, however, the car was stalling after long runs and on sharp turns when i initally bought it; ie when it was bone stock will 34k miles on it. so I dont think its the cam so much.

now the car has the same gas lines and fuel pump.... orig. i was thinking the fuel line be check,cleaned and a new fuel pump may be an issue.

additionally, Where can i buy a Switch Pitch? and whill a bigger tourque coverter help or hurt the situation?

[Modern Motoring]

I have a headache THIS BIG, and it has your post written all over it.

[Dapapadon]

I think you guys are on track with two problems causing all these symptoms. A switch pitch torque converter problem and a vacuum problem on the power brakes.

punishercarr, would you clarify the "while turning sharp" stalling problem? Is this a slow speed turning sharp, like pulling in and out of a parking space? Or while you are driving at say 20 - 30 miles per hour?

It sounds like you are not working on your car, correct? Either way, you or your mechanic might concentrate on your hard brake pedal problem. It's a safety concern. And if it turns out to be a large vacuum leak it could be the cause of your other symptoms.

If the vacuum issue doesn't get resolved while repairing the brakes that should be the next item to deal with. I say this because a vacuum leak will cause stalling problems. Also, you say the idle is great but it (engine RPM's) drastically drops when you shift into gear. This, to me, sounds like your idle is set a little too high. Possibly to compensate for a vacuum problem.

If the stalling continues after the brakes and vacuum problems are corrected then it might be time for a trip back to the transmission shop. But you'll need to find a shop that is familiar with the Switch Pitch Torque Converter system.

This is my understanding of the switch pitch. At idle and under hard acceleration the converter acts like a normal torque converter (high angle). And at part throttle, cruise the stator vane angle changes and it acts similar to a lockup converter (low angle). So if it stays at low angle it might cause stalling. (My 66 service manual says Poor Performance & Rough Idle) There is a long list of things that might cause a problem. Rocketraider's suggestion to check & adjust the throttle switch is a good place to start. From what I read in the service manual - The stator solenoid is activated at idle & under hard acceleration. So if the switch or the connection at the transmission is disconnected the blade angle would be stuck in cruise position. And could cause stalling.

Rocketraider - Would his engine even run if the cam had the wrong bank angle? Sorry buddy, had to get that in there.

Don

[punishercarr]

Well, the car Flies.... but when im on the street after long drivign or hard driving it begans to stall out. this happens at lights or durring a simple stop sign turn. additionally, the switch pitch coverter is not and issue becuase i had the trans rebuild by and throw a torque converter on the engine. the brakes work when you intially press then, and then suck on the pump; you really have to push it to the floor some times.

here what i concluded, its maybe the perfomance cam that put in by my rebuilder (didnt ask for that) or i need a digger torque converter.
now the other issue is the car was stall the same way when i first bought it, stock with 34k orig miles; it would drive hard and then begin to stall on the way back home and on simple turns.
for this reason i think it could be muck in the gas lines or in the old orig gas pump that cause me to stall out.

furthermore the ideal issue, may be due to a cam that is too big; but the car somewhat holds well until you drive it for a while; then the ideal weakens; and we slowed the ideal all the way down to see if it would still drop in drive or reverse and it did.

i had a new boster put in the braking system along with new brakes... and so far my guy says that he could find any leaks in anything.

let me know what yall think.

fyi

i put dual exhaust on the 425, and new intake manifold, drive side exhause manafold, new sinors, 750 elderbrock electric choke carb, rebuild egine, with a one stage above stock performance cam ( but my egine ass guy couldnt clearly tell me the specks on the cam, just gave me the part number and where he got it from. crazy i know but thats another story) Rebuilt tans with a 2200 ( believe) torque converter (i could get a bigger one for free becuase Im trans guy now i got hosed on the price of the rebuild)

Thus, i can get a new torque converter a bigger one, but would that help or hurt the ideal issue more or help help it?

thus, i can go have my cam pulled and put the orig specked cam in the place of the performance cam

thus, i can get a new fuel pump and have the fuel lines clean and tank boiled

Let me know, its really killing me.

i just want my car to be able drive strong and consistant; burn some of these garbage new cars off the road every now and then.

[Modern Motoring]

Google Tool Bar comes with free spell check !

[rocketraider]

You would be amazed at some of the stuff I've seen fire up and run. Not that it ran well...

I'm wondering if the car is overheating some and causing all this grief, since it appears to do it only after some run time. Could also be slight vapor lock. How about heat riser valve on the exhaust manifold? if it sticks shut it will cause hateful things too. If the converter stall is too high, you could have excessive slippage which will also create performance problems.

This is why my advice to young hotrodders has always been go smaller and match things up.

MM- give it a rest. Some of the sharpest people I know can't spell or write worth a hoot.

[Modern Motoring]

Originally Posted by rocketraider

MM- give it a rest. Some of the sharpest people I know can't spell or write worth a hoot.

I would help him out if I could read and understand what he is trying to say. He is just a reflection of our poor educational system. I feel sorry for the guy. Really, I do ! A basic tool bar like Google or Yahoo has spell check built in. It will go a long way in making these posts more understandable.

[Dapapadon]

M & M - Every time the guy posts? That's what's getting annoying on 'his' thread.

Don

[Olds64]

Don't diss people because of writing problems and grammatical errors. This isn't English 101. I have a Masters Degree and see mistakes on the board all of the time that would never pass for graduate level or professional work but don't put people down about it.

Punishercarr, I suggest you make sure you car is completely tuned up before changing the torque converter. You need to check for vacuum leaks as well. You can do this by using a Vac-U-Tec machine, or spraying starting fluid around the base of the intake manifold and power brake booster. If your idle changes while spraying the starting fluid you know you have a vacuum leak. Your mechanic should have a Vac-U-Tec machine if it is a full service shop, this method is preferred since it is safer and more conclusive.

You can also check your fuel pump by removing the coil wire and cranking the engine with the fuel line removed from the carburetor. Let the fuel spew into an old coffee can. Look for good positive flow and a decent amount of fuel in the bottom of the coffee can after a few moments of cranking. I know this is very subjective but you will be able to tell if your fuel pump is good. If not you then your mechanic.

[Oldsmaniac]

As mentioned before you may want to check your fuel lines and fuel pump. I recently had an acceleration problem with my 66 Sfire. Would start fine and run fine but on hard acceleration it would not stall but fall flat on its face...then pick up then fall again. The longer the trip the worse it got and at times I had trouble accelerating at all up a hill or on to a highway. When I put the car together I used a new pump, new gas tank, I checked the filter sock on the tank pickup tube. The carb was rebuilt. When this problem was noticed I did some trouble shooting and after I was almost out of things to check I found that the inlet to the fuel pump was blocked by what looked like curled pieces of thin brown paper. I identified them as varnish that must have coated the metal fuel line and now was coming loose. I used air to blow out the line and cleared the pump inlet tube...the car never ran better.

[shaks 442 clone]

Originally Posted by Olds64

Don't diss people because of writing problems and grammatical errors. This isn't English 101. I have a Masters Degree and see mistakes on the board all of the time that would never pass for graduate level or professional work but don't put people down about it.

Punishercarr, I suggest you make sure you car is completely tuned up before changing the torque converter. You need to check for vacuum leaks as well. You can do this by using a Vac-U-Tec machine, or spraying starting fluid around the base of the intake manifold and power brake booster. If your idle changes while spraying the starting fluid you know you have a vacuum leak. Your mechanic should have a Vac-U-Tec machine if it is a full service shop, this method is preferred since it is safer and more conclusive.

You can also check your fuel pump by removing the coil wire and cranking the engine with the fuel line removed from the carburetor. Let the fuel spew into an old coffee can. Look for good positive flow and a decent amount of fuel in the bottom of the coffee can after a few moments of cranking. I know this is very subjective but you will be able to tell if your fuel pump is good. If not you then your mechanic.

don't forget to ground the coil wire with some jumper leads