Exhaust manifold springs
#1
Exhaust manifold springs
Ha HA, sounds like s sky hook or something equally ridiculous.
The connection between the manifolds and the primary pipes are connected by a donut with an integral sleeve. The pipes are supposed to be able to flex a bit by the addition of long bolts with springs and sleeves.
I am installing an aftermarket exhaust so the springs and sleeves don't fit right and the manuals have a drawing that is sort of vague. (8-3.2)
I know I will need longer bolts to use the sleeve and spring arrangement, do the sleeves go thru the flange? The sleeves I have are longer than the springs and would not function otherwise.
Of course some or all of these parts could have been substituted by the PO and the exhaust was a total rotted hack job when I got the car.
Any photos or advise greatly appreciated!
The connection between the manifolds and the primary pipes are connected by a donut with an integral sleeve. The pipes are supposed to be able to flex a bit by the addition of long bolts with springs and sleeves.
I am installing an aftermarket exhaust so the springs and sleeves don't fit right and the manuals have a drawing that is sort of vague. (8-3.2)
I know I will need longer bolts to use the sleeve and spring arrangement, do the sleeves go thru the flange? The sleeves I have are longer than the springs and would not function otherwise.
Of course some or all of these parts could have been substituted by the PO and the exhaust was a total rotted hack job when I got the car.
Any photos or advise greatly appreciated!
#10
It seems to me the spacer should not go through the spring... The spring seats between the spacer and the washer... Once the bolt has bottomed out, the spring tension then comes into play... How long is the shank (un-threaded portion) of the bolt? It must be longer then the spacer for the spring to function as it was designed...
#11
This is a common set up. Its a thermal expansion joint which maintains the seal on the doughnut, hot warm cold. The springs are designed to keep tension on the flange throughout the thermal cycles. So some movement is engineered in to the flange. Note the opposite bolt is shown with just the threads going through to the manifold. The spacer bottoms out between the washer and the flange. The spring also bottoms on the flange and washer. When the springs lose their temper or things get rotted out the joint will begin to leak. You can eliminate all this and bolt it up solid with shorter fasteners or replace the hardware.
Side note...eliminate that thermal stove in the manifold and install riser block offs in the intake. Boost in performance, though it will be cold blooded. Choke adjustments are necessary.
Side note...eliminate that thermal stove in the manifold and install riser block offs in the intake. Boost in performance, though it will be cold blooded. Choke adjustments are necessary.
#12
That's pretty much what I thought. I'll have to drill out the flanges so the spacers will go thru.
I did eliminate the thermo stove flap in the manifold as it looked like trouble, but I left the crossover in the intake manifold for now.
Also discovered that there is a very specific order to the assembly of the exhaust system and that going up to 2.5 inches on the tube size thru off some of the dimensions so that the muffler assembly would not fit between the rear frame rails without trimming the 90* bends that go into it.
I did eliminate the thermo stove flap in the manifold as it looked like trouble, but I left the crossover in the intake manifold for now.
Also discovered that there is a very specific order to the assembly of the exhaust system and that going up to 2.5 inches on the tube size thru off some of the dimensions so that the muffler assembly would not fit between the rear frame rails without trimming the 90* bends that go into it.
#15
The springs that I have are shorter than the spacers, which is what made the whole thing confusing.
I think I'll just leave it bolted up solid for now and see how it seals when I get the car on the road.
Thanks for the help!
I think I'll just leave it bolted up solid for now and see how it seals when I get the car on the road.
Thanks for the help!
#17
I think the spacer is supposed to go through the flange and seat on the manifold. On modern vehicles that use this setup with shoulder bolts; the shoulder bolt goes through the flange and seats on the manifold or opposing flange. if the spacer was to seat on the flange, it would be the same as bolting it solid.
#18
If you look close at the drawing you will see that the arrangement is that the spacer does go through the flange and the spring does go over the spacer - Hence, the spring pushes against the flange thus providing the spring tension against the flange and donut and holding the pipe tight against the donut/manifold and keeping that tension constant during thermal changes as noted by someone above! Hope this explains it!.The drawing is correct, albeit a bit confusing and "under explained"!
After the spacer is installed through the flange the spring will be longer than the spacer when you put the bolt in, thus providing for the spring tension. Eliminating it is definitely a workable option
TIMB's pic abov is correct
After the spacer is installed through the flange the spring will be longer than the spacer when you put the bolt in, thus providing for the spring tension. Eliminating it is definitely a workable option
TIMB's pic abov is correct
Last edited by Chesrown 67 OAI; February 12th, 2016 at 06:28 AM.
#20
71-76 Ninety Eights use the springs on passenger side at downpipe. Other Olds use them too.
69-70 Toronados also have a metal exhaust heat shield for the steering column in addition to the spring/spacer setup. Not sure on 66-68. I think it was to keep exhaust heat off the collapsible steering column. MIA on most Toro.
69-70 Toronados also have a metal exhaust heat shield for the steering column in addition to the spring/spacer setup. Not sure on 66-68. I think it was to keep exhaust heat off the collapsible steering column. MIA on most Toro.
#21
Yes I agree with the others that the spacer goes through the flange. If the holes in your flange are not large enough you could drill them out. Or if its not all welded up yet I've got some original flanges that are in good shape.
John
John
#22
OK I may be wrong on the spacer? At least for this set up. They are all different yet similar in the goal. The bottom line is you need to induce the ability for the spring to push between the bolt and the flange however you need to make it happen. This set up is used everywhere in different configs. Chesrown thanks for the insite. It only uses one, thats a new one? Ive always seen a set. Im not a Toro specialist. Ill bet someone has an old motors manual that will show it. ill dig through my manuals. I think I have a pic of this. Anytime Ive dealt with these spring loaded connections they leak. I remove the springs n spacer and make it a solid joint. The ones Ive seen the spacer does not go though to the mani. There were all non olds. as gs72 puts it....True wisdom is knowing that you know nothing! lol...
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