Variable Vane Torque Converter

[jimjr]

Joe- Can you tell me the switching sequence of the switch connected to the throttle linkage which controls the stator and detent solenoids in the '67 Cutlass two-speed Jetaway tranny? Mine has the round Delco -Remy switch with three terminals. Should the variable-vane (stator) solenoid activate at low-to-medium throttle and the down-shift (detent) activate at wide-open throttle, or should the variable-vane kick in again at W.O.T. ?
I've tried to keep my switch adjusted and have even opened it up and cleaned the contacts, but it seems to act funky at times (won't always down-shift at W.O.T.). Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jimjr.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by jimjr

Joe- Can you tell me the switching sequence of the switch connected to the throttle linkage which controls the stator and detent solenoids in the '67 Cutlass two-speed Jetaway tranny? Mine has the round Delco -Remy switch with three terminals. Should the variable-vane (stator) solenoid activate at low-to-medium throttle and the down-shift (detent) activate at wide-open throttle, or should the variable-vane kick in again at W.O.T. ?
I've tried to keep my switch adjusted and have even opened it up and cleaned the contacts, but it seems to act funky at times (won't always down-shift at W.O.T.). Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jimjr.

Jim,

To be honest, the exact timing of the switch pitch vs. kickdown is not in the CSM (at least not in my 66 CSM). Let me do a little digging.

[jimjr]

Hi Joe! Any news on the switching sequence? My activation sw. is very intermittent, but the car goes fine at lower speeds and acceleration without the stator sol. being sw'd. on. It just doesn't want to "down-shift" every time it's supposed to. No rush, just wondering if you have hit on any info. Thanks & HAPPY FOURTH of JULY!!! Jim

[jensenracing77]

my only experience is with the 400 with this variable pitch converter. on the 400 it only goes to the higher stall at WOT.

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by jimjr

........ Should the variable-vane (stator) solenoid activate at low-to-medium throttle and the down-shift (detent) activate at wide-open throttle ........

Yes.

Norm

[jimjr]

Thanks for the input. I'm now working on getting another switch to check out the mechanics of switch timing. Jim

[1k442]

Send me your email address. I have a few pdf sheets that may help.
Ken

[1k442]

This info is for a 67 400 trans and may apply. Let me know how you make out.
Ken

[Kennybill]

In my 67 Olds 98 it "use" to be in "high stall" at idle so little "Old Ladies" didn't have to have to put much pressure on the brake pedal at red lights and so the car wouldn't want to "creep.". As soon as one started giving it gas it went to "lower" stall which help move the car faster and smoother. When one kick it down into passing gear it went back into high stall probably to let the engine rev up quicker and downshift for faster accelleration in passing. Kennibell use to sell a "timer," primary use was drag racing. It was controlled by using brake light electric. I have my "switch-pitch" on a toggle switch. I leave the line on "high" stall, flipping the switch to low-stall at the 60' mark. My 60' time is 2 seconds. If I had the Kenni-Bell timer I would set it for 2 sec and after I leave off the brake, 2 sec's later, it would switch to high stall by itself. I leave mine in low-stall except when starting out. My car in fighting trim is a "slim" 4680 lbs. It's best is 14:18 @ 100mph.

[jimjr]

Thanks for the info. I still want to delve into the mechanics of exactly what the switch is doing internally at any given time. I understand what the stator and detent solenoids do to the torque converter vanes and the resulting performance. I need to get my switch repaired, so I've got to get a good grasp on the technicalities of its switching action inside. I hope to locate a good used switch to bench test and document the results. When I do, I'll post the info. Does anybody have a good used Delco 3 terminal switch kicking around? Thanks! Jim

[ijasond]

I have the same problem. Down shifting and changing the pitch at any given time with no rhyme or reason to it. I was thinking about cracking the switch open and trying to fix it myself. Have you done yours yet? This toggle switch has got to go.
Missed an NOS switch on ebay a couple weeks ago, sold for about $135

[jimjr]

I opened up my switch and found a set of contacts were burned & pitted. I cleaned all cotacts & used lamp grease on them. I epoxied the housing back together and reinstalled the sw. assembly onto the firewall & hooked up the throttle linkage. I then adjusted ("calibrated", as the manual states) the switch and gave it a try. The switch still acted funky, sometimes the variable-vane worked, sometimes not. The same goes for the kick-down. I wired two dash-mounted 12V lamps to the outputs of the kick-down switch (one=stator/variable-vane & the other=detent/kick-down). If the stator light comes on at lower speeds, it only stays on for a second or two, then shuts off. I feel no noticeable change in the torque converter no matter if the light is on or off. When I go to wide-open throttle, most of the time I get no kick-down (power downshift). But when it does kick in, both the stator and detent lights come on and I get the downshift. I'm not sure if both are supposed to operate at the same time or if they were designed to work independently. Any feedback???

[oldcutlass]

I have 1967 Cutlass Holiday Coupe - 330/ 2speed Jetaway

My question is also the set-up (calibration) of the switch. Has anyone gotten anywhere with this. I can feel my torque converter change states under low load conditions, however don't know which state it is in, hi or low. The transmission feels sluggish and passing gear is intermittant, sometimes it works and sometimes does not.

[jimjr]

The adjustment goes as follows: Disconnect the carburetor rod (unsnap at ball & socket next to switch) and move the detent sw. lever to closed throttle position until the lever hits the stop. Reconnect the carb. rod while holding the detent sw. in this position. After the carb. rod is reconnected, push the accelerator pedal to wide open throttle (you can do the same from under the hood by moving the carb. rod to W.O.T.). Let the carb. rod and switch lever mechanism return to the resting position. This should align the internal switch contacts into the proper operating position. Start up the car and give it a try. You should feel the stator solenoid working at idle (variable vane mode). You may feel the car tending to try to creep ahead when in gear and at idle. This is normal. As you accelerate, the variable vane will shut off. When you go to wide-open-throttle ("floor" it), the detent switch will engage the detent solenoid, locking up the torque converter vanes and causing the "downshift". If the engine is running at too many R.P.M.'s, the downshift may not occur due to a safety built into the tranny.
I installed two 12V indicator lamps on my lower-left dash to allow me to monitor the status of the detent switch. One side of both lamps are grounded to the chassis and the other leads are connected to the switched lugs on the detent sw. Keep me posted & good luck!! Jim