A Few 350 Questions

[MDC]

We finally got the 350 out of the cutlass (72) and pulled it apart. Looks like it just spun a rod bearing. Everything else looked pretty normal.
Questions;
Can someone recomend a machine shop in DFW that is good with Olds?

When we pulled the main cap bolts there was much gray gunk like oil in the water but nowhere else. The oil was nasty but had no water in it. Any thoughts on this?

What parts if any would you reuse? If the block doesn't have to bored, would you reuse the pistons? They are pretty clean except for some carbon on the tops. Will I need a new rod to replace the one that spun the bearing? etc, etc, etc...

I can't find the post, but at some point it was being discussed which were better heads #5 or #7. Mine are #7. What to do with them?

What is your opinion as to what machine work should cost in general?
Lets say worst case. Complete valve job w/ hard seats, bore and hone block, grind crank, press pistons to rods, install cam bearings freeze plugs and anything else I forgot. Just looking for opinions for labor only.

We have already had the Quadrajet rebuilt and it will be going back on the car. Should I run the stock maniold or buy an edelbrock?

I'm not looking for a tire burner, just a good solid daily driver with some pep. Per the VIN it was a 180hp car. I think we can do better than that. Maybe 225-250. Anyone want to recomend a cam/intake/head combo? Or what can I get out of the #7's and the stack intake?

Richard, you want to build a longblock?

Thanks
Mike

[cutlassefi]

I have the exact same car/engine. If you're going to keep the car, then do it right. Bore it, balance it etc. Bore and Hone runs about $120.00. R&R rods, $120.00, Balance $200.00. Head Work? Could go from $500.00 to $1000.00 depending on what it needs. #7 heads are good, not the best but good, they already have hardened seats in them. Put in 2.00 inch intake valves and unless you have a low numerical gear get an Edelbrock Performer RPM, even if you put just a small cam in it. Raise the compression to roughly 9.5 to 1 and you'll have a great running car. Mine has EFI and a Hydraulic Roller now which I wouldn't trade for anything. I started with a carb and an Engle Hydraulic flat tappet cam. Not impressed with the cam. There are alot of other good cams out there for your application.
One other thing, worry more about getting a shop that does good work, not one that just knows Oldsmobiles. When it comes to machine work, a good shop will be able to handle everything you need.

Mark

[Oldsguy]

Originally Posted by MDC

Can someone recomend a machine shop in DFW that is good with Olds?Thanks
Mike

Contact Gearheads78, he lives in your area and has worked in the business. I bet he can help you find a good machinist.