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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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New and Confused
Greetings all. My name is Pauly and I have a 1956 Olds Super 88. I am having a hard time finding the correct answer to what engine is in this car. Just looking at it, it looks like a big block. But from what I read it could be a 324, 425, or a 455. I know its a super 88 because of the badges on it. Whatever engine is in it I think I got pretty damn lucky cuz it is the original engine and it only has 53k miles on it. Needs a new carb and some headers but everything else is working fine. It only had one previous owner and sat in a garage for the last 15 years. I will post some pics of her when I get them scanned. Thanks for any help you can provide and I look forward to some good topics. Fair times and good cheers.
Pauly Boy |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 371
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If the engine is original 1956 it would be a 324.3 cubic inch engine....It is not referred to a small block or big block as those terms came about in 1965 when the big brother to the 1964 330 modern rocket was introduced.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 2,862
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Paul, welcome to this site. The '56 88 is a very nice car, I like the lines almost as much as the '55. That curved rear window is a very nice feature. We are all looking forward to your pictures.
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Dan '46 2 door |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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okay, so that would make sense as to why it looks a little small for a big block except for some key points that made me guess on it being a big block. Now that all that is cleared up, on to scanning some pics!! I have searched this site a little and I am sure it has been brought up many times before, but can someone post a link to a thread about finding parts for this engine? I'm sure they are out there somewhere. I really need a power steering pump re-build kit or just one the works. I am getting a helluva workout driving this beast with no help from the pump. hahahaha. Thanks
Pauly |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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'56 Olds
Hello Pauly,
You likely have the top of the line '56 324 ci engine in your car if it is the origional. If the heads have the number "10" in raised cast numbers on top of the center of the exhaust ports,you hit the jackpot! What number do you see there? MickeyD |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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Yeah, it has a 10 on it. Checked it last night. So it would seem that this car is worth the 7k I paid for it?
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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324 Olds
Sounds like you got the best possible engine in the '56.
The heads with the "10" are the high compression heads. Also,the '56 heads have larger valves than the '54 & '55,and I think the ports are slightly larger. Sounds like it's a C@@L car! Let's see some pic's when you get a chance. I'm building a '40 ford coupe with a '56 324 engine.My block is bored out 1/8" to 4".The resulting size is about 346.3 cu. in. The pistons are new std. bore '57 pistons. I have a 3-2 barrel intake setup that I'm getting ready for it,and an old Mallory distributor for it. I'm doing an old school style hot rod like one that I built in high school. I will post pic's when I can figure out how. MickeyD |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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wow, see, thats what I want to do with this car. I see all the boydsters and the foose cars and they are cool, but I want to do it oldschool style. Like the real rods used to be. I have a lot to learn though. =)
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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You're Gonna' Love This Hobby!
Real hot rodding is about building and modifying cars.
"Wanna' be" hot rodders pay someone to build it for them. As we say down here in Texas about "Wanna' be cowboys", ..."Big hat,no cattle"! BTW,if you didn't know,the 4 speed Hydramatic transmission that your Olds has was the basic transmission used to create one of the first automatics used in serious drag racing.The B&M Stick Hydro. This transmission has been used for years behind blown Chryslers in the gas coupe and sedan classes. It can take ALOT of punishment.Seek out info on servicing and adjusting it properly and it will take anything you can dish out! Have Fun! MickeyD |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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thats really good to know. I just replaced the rear tranny seal last night. It got me wondering about the tranny. Now I know I just need to take care of it and it will do the job. Thanks. I am trying to figure out how to put up some pics right now.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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I give up, can I email these pics to someone who knows how to post them for me?
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Peace, Pauly |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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Don't feel bad about it Pauly.
I guess I rained on the moderator pretty severly a few days ago when I joined. Mostly about the "user unfriendlyness" of the site. He wrote that it was pretty much a canned program with few fancy features. I guess if it's free,we shouldn't be carping about it huh? It's "a" place to chat about Olds stuff,and that's cool enough for me! MickeyD |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 2,862
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Mickey,
Nah, you didn't rain on me too much I think posting a picture just needs you to upload a picture within the specs from your computer or a url, let me try something. ok then, that didn't work . I hope somebody may be able to figure this out. As I said to Admin when they asked me to moderate, I am not too computer literate. I am going to send a pm (private message) to them and see what happens.
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Dan '46 2 door |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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No worries. I started a cardomain page. here is the link. Enjoy!!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2338246
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Peace, Pauly |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
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Wish I had one.
This past December I bought a 56 Super 88 from a Internet dealer that advertises in all the major classic car sights. I new the body and interior would need a lot of work. But I wanted that #10 324 and Jetaway. After waiting two months for delivery I got my 56 super 88. But it seems that the respectable dealer needed the 324 and Jetaway for another bigger bucks project and stuck a 55 324 and Hydramatic in the car. I suppose that they sell cars as is and not as advertised. You have a great Harley Earl car treat her right. Check out Fusick.com and Kanter.com you can find most of what you need there. Take care
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#16 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
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Check out
Check out realoldspower.com and jalopyjournal.com to meet some real old school hot rodders. Take care
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#17 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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Olds Headers?
Hey Pauly,
I was just re-reading the comments about your car and noticed that you said you needed some headers for it. If you mean the cast iron stock exhaust manifolds,I have a pair that I will not be using that you can have if that's what you need. I'm in McKinney,TX. MickeyD |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 2,862
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Dan '46 2 door |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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this is probably a noob question but what do you mean by a "harley earl" car?
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Peace, Pauly |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 806
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Quote:
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#21 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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Manifolds
Hey Pauly,
I checked the 324 manifolds and one of them has an ear broken off. The good one has a extended mounting bracket on the end. I think it's for the generator. Hopefully that's the one you need. MickeyD |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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I need the one on the drivers side. Actually, all I need is the manifold bolts. I was trying to fix an exhaust leak that was happening because of a loose bolt and the bolt ended up shearing off. I also need some tips on how to get the half of the bolt that is still in the head out. I will still take both of the manifolds if you want to get rid of them. I need them to design some headers with. Thanks. I sent you my cell # in a pm, did you get it?
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Peace, Pauly |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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Hey mickey3d, just wondering if my PM got to you.
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Peace, Pauly |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 2,862
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Pauly, if there is any bolt shaft left at all, remove the manifold if you can to expose the remaining bolt that was broken. Soak that sucker with PB Blaster about six times, one time a day for six days. Each time you soak it, tap the end with a small hammer, just enough to loosen any old rust or debris in the hole or on the bolt shaft, exhaust bolts and hardware rust a lot. On the seventh day, hit it one more time with blaster, dry it well on the shaft and grip it with a pair of vise grips and try to break it loose "righty tighty, lefty loosey". If the bolt shaft itself isn't too damaged or rusted through you have a good chance of loosening it. If it breaks off again flush with the head surface then it's time to take it to the machine shop.
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Dan '46 2 door |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 37
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manifolds
Hi Pauly,
Yes I did receive your PM. I have been sick the last couple of days and have not been in the office. I put the manifolds in the car Sunday night to bring to you Monday. I don't have any extra bolts for manifold to heads.The 2 manifolds both have a stub of header pipe,the flanges and 3 bolts each on them. Maybe tomorrow.Yeah I got your cell number.I will call when I'm back. r.e. the broken off bolt;I had one of my exhaust mfld. bolts break off too when I disassembled my engine.I had it removed at an automotive machine shop for $12.I have never tried the PB Blaster that Oldsguy suggested.I will be interested to see what kind of success you have if you try it. I saw a neat method on the flathead Ford forum that you can do without having to remove the head. You need to slip a flat washer over the stub left when the bolt broke off. Next you need to put a new nut on the end of the stub by welding it through the hole in the nut.You pull the washer up to the back of the nut and weld it on all sides and weld it as solid as you can.Then you use an impact wrench (to avoid any bending moment from a hand wrench)and carefully,meaning apply the force slowly,remove the bolt. Sounds like a good excuse to pull the heads and take them in to get a valve job done on them.The heads come off and go on pretty easy on these.The exhaust system disconnect is usually the biggest problem from frozen bolts. MickeyD |
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#26 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 34
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I'll give that PB blaster a shot if there is any bolt peeking out the top. If not then mickey3d got it right, time to take the heads in for a valve job!!! I kinda hope I can't get it out so I have a good excuse for the wife to chew on. hahahahaha!!
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Peace, Pauly |
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