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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco bay area
Posts: 113
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Headers
Hello all,
I just bought headers last night and i'm planning on installing them Saturday morning.Can I have some insight as to what I might face during the install.I have a 350 rocket in a 72 cutlass supreme.They are full lenght headers. Thank you
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#2 (permalink) |
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feed the pig
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 178
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The passenger side is the easy side. You will have to remove the oil filter AND the adapter. The tranny cooling lines might get in your way a little, might need a little bend here and there.
The driver side is more challenging and you may need assistance from a buddy. The starter is what makes it more difficult. You'll need to remove it and install it the same same has the header goes in. Becarful with the battery postive cable, so it doesn't rub or melt on the header tube. The brake junction block often gets in the way and might need to be moved a little, to the top of frame from its side location. Beware the oil dipstick, they often break so take it easy.] Goodluck
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1971 Cutlass S 455/th400 3.23 rear. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Just a memory when I put headers on my 455 engine back in 1976. I didn't notice at the time, but one of the tubes was very close to one of my brake lines, and every time the engine twisted because of the torque, it was just enough to make contact with the brake line, and so after about 2 weeks of driving, the constant movement back and forth of the line caused it to crack near the flange(next to the proportioning valve if I remember correctly). An easy fix, but could have been avoided. Don't know if this would be an issue with a 350, but just make sure you have enough clearance all around the header tubes. Chumley
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#4 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
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depending also the kind of headers u get too. hooker headers are notorious for resting on the cross members
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#5 (permalink) |
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Landyacht Club President
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 1,811
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I have heard that headers on an Olds 350 can heat soak the starter and cause problems with starting once the car is hot. Oldsguy had this problem on his 71 Cutlass S he had years ago. I think he ended up using header tape to wrap the headers and prevent them from cooking the starter.
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"Some men are Baptists, others Catholics. My father was an OLDSMOBILE man." Ralphie Billingsley A Christmas Story 1983 "We rei-eign, supreme, ooooh god! Burrito supreme, and a chicken supreme, and a CUTLASS SUPREME!" Tenacious D 2007 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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I used to have that problem also with my Hedmans on my 455. Problem is the solenoid gets too hot and does not want to work. Some guys reroute the wiring and mount the solenoid on the firewall somewhere. ( This is one area where Ford was a step ahead of GM back in the early days.) Chumley
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 934
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Headers
Also you may have figured it out but when I put a set on I jacked the car way up high and fed them in from the bottom. I too move the brake distribution block to the top of the frame, and after changing one too many starter solenoids got a kit from Summit that connected the two small posts on the starter solenoid and ran that to a Ford solenoid that I put on the fender near the horn relay. I still ended up changing the Ford solenoid every couple years but at least it was easy to do! John
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1964 Cutlass Factory 4spd 1965 442 4spd 1967 442 Auto 1967 Cutlass Convertible 1968 442 Auto 1969 442 W30 Auto 1970 442 4spd 1971 Cutlass Flat Top Wagon 1973 Che*vy 3/4 Ton 454/TH400 Tow Vehicle Only the tow vehicle is finished! |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 236
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I think we've all had the heat soak problem.
Go to home depot or lowes or any other good hardware store. Ask for some aluminum tape of HVAC tape. (don't get the tape that's just silver colored paper) It's heavy aluminum foil with a sticky back. Degrease your starter and wrap a few pieces around the starter, covering everything but the ends. Stay away from the grounds and contacts. You won't have a starter problem on the hottest day. ![]() |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Landyacht Club President
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 1,811
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That is a cool idea to use the aluminum wrapping. Then you can use chrome polish on the tape every time you wash the car and keep the headers nice and shiny.
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"Some men are Baptists, others Catholics. My father was an OLDSMOBILE man." Ralphie Billingsley A Christmas Story 1983 "We rei-eign, supreme, ooooh god! Burrito supreme, and a chicken supreme, and a CUTLASS SUPREME!" Tenacious D 2007 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3
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i guess im the lucky one cause i aint never had to change out my starter in the last seven years and my headers sit right on it but now that i am saying this something will probably happen either way im getting ready to play with my electrical system on my car a lil battery rerouting and powermaster starter and alternator i am havin one problem with my car staying at 210 and i have replaced everything but i want it back down to 190 i think its because i pulled my valley pan off but other than that my whole cooling system is brand new
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#11 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 3,167
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You need an avatar, here is one.....
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Dan '77 Cutlass Supreme '46 2 door |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Landyacht Club President
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 1,811
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I learned from the best!
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__________________
"Some men are Baptists, others Catholics. My father was an OLDSMOBILE man." Ralphie Billingsley A Christmas Story 1983 "We rei-eign, supreme, ooooh god! Burrito supreme, and a chicken supreme, and a CUTLASS SUPREME!" Tenacious D 2007 |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 14
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When my headers were put on the motor mounts needed to be moved because they wouldnt clear on the left side. this was in january and i had to learn the hard way that headers get very hot and burn anything that touches them so a bunch of wires got melted and crystalized. long story short buy some split loom and electrical tape to wrap any wires near the headers.
Last edited by gumbyssfakee : 04-22-2008 at 12:33 PM. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco bay area
Posts: 113
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headers
I got my passenger side headers on but im having a little trouble with the drivers side.I had to take the motor mount screws out and jack the motor up a little bit but it's a very tight fit and the header is resting on the frame a little bit.Has anyone else had these type of problems???
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#15 (permalink) |
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feed the pig
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 178
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You might have to "ding" the header tube with a hammer that contacts the area you describe. You only need a little space, not much, say 1/4".
Yea I know, this means you might have to take the header back out to do this. This should'nt be normal, but many header installs go like this. Some sets are better fit than others. Just keep at it. It can be challenging.
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1971 Cutlass S 455/th400 3.23 rear. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco bay area
Posts: 113
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Thanks Don71.I had to ding the passenger header in a little bit so I may need to do the drivers as well.I'll keep you posted.
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#17 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 3,167
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Buy a grease pencil at the art suppy store and mark the interfering spot, remove the header, and do it that way. You need to be able to support the header pipe you are "hammering" on by backing it with your work bench or a big block of wood or something. If you try to hammer it while it is in the car and perhaps even some of the bolts attached you might break a flange, bent a bolt or miss with the hammer and damage something else on the engine like the starter.
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Dan '77 Cutlass Supreme '46 2 door |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Landyacht Club President
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 1,811
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It is a shame that they were such a tight fit. I wonder if another brand fits better or if it is just the set you got?
I have heard of many people having to ding headers so they fit.
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"Some men are Baptists, others Catholics. My father was an OLDSMOBILE man." Ralphie Billingsley A Christmas Story 1983 "We rei-eign, supreme, ooooh god! Burrito supreme, and a chicken supreme, and a CUTLASS SUPREME!" Tenacious D 2007 |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 54
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You have the exact 72' that I have. I had the engine rebuilt and I'm breaking it in with the original exhaust manifold. I have Hooker Competition series that I had cermaic coated, but now I'm a bit worried to install them. What type of headers did you install? Hooker? Headman? How is it running now?
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#20 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Francisco bay area
Posts: 113
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I have flowtech headers.I installed them and drove to the exhaust shop sounding like a nascar.They are great.I can feel more power and the tone is loud like I wanted it. Definitely worth it.
I had to ding the passenger side in a little but the drivers side went in with no problem when I removed the starter.
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#21 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 54
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That's good news. I've got Hooker Headers and I'm hoping that they will drop in easy enough. I have to have the exhaust modified so I might just leave that up to the muffler shop guy to handle. Hopefully I won't have any problems with the starter once they're in.
Thanks for the follow up. Last edited by #1CutlassSupreme : 04-29-2008 at 01:15 PM. Reason: not finished. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Did you install those hooker headers yet? I have a set and I need to know what I'm looking ahead for.
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#23 (permalink) |
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Senior Moment Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 245
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Just in case someone is looking to buy a very nice set of coated headers for a 68-72 Cutlass I have some for sale in the sale section. Save some money. They are not dinged and fit very nice. They fit automatic only.
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