cutlass47

I plan to get the Quadrajet carburetor rebuilt on my 1972 Cutlass Supreme. A Olds dealer overhauled the carb at 46,000 miles in 1976, and it has 192,000 miles on it now. I do not remember the problems I was having with the carb at the time that caused the overhaul. It looks pretty straight forward as to how you remove the carburetor, but wanted to get any tips on best and easiest way to remove. It would be great if anyone knows of any instructional website or video on the internet that would walk you through the process. I am probably making too much of the removal, but I have limited mechanical skills.

A local shop, Carburetor Specialist, in Alpharetta (suburb of Atlanta) that has been in business since 1977, gave me a quote to rebuild the carburetor for $279 with a 1 year warranty. They indicated that they no longer have a repair shop in which they can remove and reinstall the carburetor. Is this a reasonable rebuild cost? Has anyone in Atlanta area had any experience with carburetor rebuilds by this shop or any suggestions for a other reputable shops that rebuild Q-jet carburetors ? Also, I would appreciate any helpful tips for making sure that whoever rebuilds it does a proper job.

Jamesbo

I've never heard of Carb Specialist [not sure that means anything but I do live just north of Alpharetta] Call Peach State Classic in Alpharetta and ask Randy 770-664-4803 about their work. He's in the area and works on alot of muscle cars

MDchanic

1. Photograph carburetor and top of engine from all angles.
2. Draw each side of carburetor on a pad of paper, with each vacuum line connection clearly indicated with a number or letter.
3. Use masking tape to place a corresponding number or letter on each vacuum line as you disconnect them from the carb.
4. Unclip the throttle linkage.
5. Unscrew little flare nuts that hold choke air tubes to choke unit.
6. Using TWO flare-nut wrenches (the kind that are like box wrenches, with five sides and one missing side), remove the fuel line from the filter chamber - Hold the filter chamber wrench steady while sharply tapping on the fuel-line wrench with a heavy hammer, don't just pull hard on the wrench right off the bat. When the nut starts to turn, you can pull on the wrench normally.
7. Remove the four screws (bolts) that hold the carburetor to the intake manifold.
8. Remove whatever I forgot to tell you to remove.
9. Remove carburetor.

... Or just follow the instructions in the Chassis Service Manual.

- Good luck!

- Eric

gearheads78

You forgot remove air cleaner housing. Makes access to the rest easier.

MDchanic

There's one in every group...

jaunty75

Have you considered rebuilding it yourself? It may look like an intimidating thing, but it really isn't. Having never done it before, I rebuilt the 2-bbl carburetor on my '67 Delta 88. The kit cost $20 at Autozone, and it had everything including a number of extra parts so that every version of this or that gasket was available.

I also used this book. It was a tremendous help as it has lots of photos and clear, step-by-step directions. You can get used ones for about $6 plus $4 shipping at Amazon (which is where I stole this cover shot). Yes, I had the chassis service manual, too, but I found this book more helpful as it had many more photos.






As MDchanic notes, take lots of photos as you go. Digital cameras make that easy, and they're very helpful in seeing exactly how things are oriented or fitted or whatever as you're putting things back together.

It was very rewarding to get it back on the car, hook up the linkages, and have it fire right up. It ran pretty well right away, and then I did a full tune-up.

It all sure cost a lot less than $279!

The_Jeremiah

...This makes 2 then!

The_Jeremiah

you cant go wrong with pictures, i used to work at a carb shop where regardless of the vehicle i was expected to have the carb off in 15 minutes or less, some cars took 30 seconds or so, some motor homes on the other hand, were a different story. i think really the most important thing is the assembly, put everything back where it was, and DONT tighten anything too tight. the carb to intake is only about 6ft lbs, remember to a carburetor, we are a very strong species!

Eightupman

Until you have to take it back off because its running really lean and has a vacuum leak at the throttle shaft. The OP should at least take the base to a carb specialist to rebush the throttle plate. The $40 I spent to get it done made a world of difference in my (second) bench build.

John

Octania

Well, maybe you should OPEN THE HOOD first, talk about making the job easier!

I have found that a 1" quality open end wrench will hold the fuel filter housing OK, but yes, you MUST use a QUALITY [Snap-on, Matco, Mac, maybe Craftsman brand] lilne wrench to loosen a fuel line properly.

Teflon Tape is NOT to be used on fuel lilne fittings. They do not seal with the threads.

A quick n dirty no special plating or re-bush rebuild should take about 2 hrs at the most, so $280 seems like a reasonable shop rate. For a little more $ you can have Sparky do it up real nice, but there will be a wait.

You can buy one already done and keep yours as a spare or practice unit. I can get many such numbers for you, no core charge or core, $300 delivered in the USA 48 states. Consult me for specific numbers. Takes a week or so for me to verify availability and get exact item photos. Deposit required for that.

MDchanic

I think we scared him away.

- Eric

SBORule

It's so easy to remove, Stevie Wonder could do it in 15 minutes.

Or you could take back to a GM dealer, I'm sure they would only charge you a couple hours labor to remove and a couple hours labor to replace, they may even be able to find you a New one for $798 or so.

71Convertible

I have several related questions for a 7041250 Rochester for my 71 Cutlass Supreme. When I bought the car, it didn't have the correct carb, so I located a 7041250 and had it restored to stock specifications. Since I didn't remove the 7041250, I didn't have any reference for the various hose and vacuum connections. Does anyone have a complete description of each connection to this carb? The AIM and SM show only portions of the connections in a single diagram. Through the process of elimination, I think I have figured it out, but I'd like to be able to confirm each connection before proceeding to mess anything up.

For example, in the upper left on the attached Carb11 picture, there are 2 connections. I think that the larger diameter (nearer tube) is for the choke tube clean air. If that is correct, I think that the smaller diameter then connects to the DVCS on the front of the manifold.

Similiarly, I'd like to confirm the connection of the emission control charcoal canister hose. I think this goes to the base plate connection on the forward side of the carb, the connection just to the right side of fuel line connection in the Carb12 picture.

Am I off base?

Thanks in advance for your help.

cutlass47

Don, where did you have your carburetor rebuilt? It looks great! Did you have it replated to make the exterior look so good? Usually carburetor shops charge quite a bit to restore the exterior with zinc/chromate replating process to make it look like new! How much did the rebuild cost?

71Convertible

The carburetor restoration was done by Sparky's Carb Service in Milwaukee WI. Yes, it was replated. The filter threads were stripped so it was replaced with a helicoil.

71Convertible

Sparky was able to describe each connection to me and I have since taken pictures of all connections, so i can probably label each hose on the pictures and post that if there would be interest in that for others with a 71 Rochester Quadrajet

cutlass47

Thanks for the info on your new carburetor. Yes, that would be be helpful if you would post a photo of your carburetor with all of the connections labeled.

71Convertible

The hose or line connections for a 1971 Rochester Quadrajet 7041250 are labeled in the pictures below.

A - DCVS second port down from top
B - Choke Tube Clean Air pipe
C - Choke Tube Hot Air pipe
D - PCV hose
E - Fuel Line
F - Charcoal Canister hose
G - DCVS top port

71Convertible