350 Valvetrain Question

[SPEEDROCKET]

Anybody know this one? I'm looking at part number CCA-1441-KIT on summit racing. Does anybody know if this set up is considered adjustable? The cam I want to get says it requires adjustable pushrods or rocker arms. Any help would be great.

[kevinkpk]

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

Anybody know this one? I'm looking at part number CCA-1441-KIT on summit racing. Does anybody know if this set up is considered adjustable? The cam I want to get says it requires adjustable pushrods or rocker arms. Any help would be great.

I have to assume these are hydraulic push rod lifters.?

[SPEEDROCKET]

From what I can tell. I'm researching using these on hydraulic lifters, so I hope so, if not I'll have to go back to plan A and get the harland sharp roller rockers and have machine shop custom the rods.

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ part number CCA-1441-KIT ........

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=32&N=700+115

........ if this set up is considered adjustable? ........

Considered?

By design, it cannot be anything but adjustable.

........ The cam I want to get says it requires adjustable pushrods or rocker arms ........

Mandatory for solid lifter cams. Adjustable pushrods are not the best choice. Whether they are actually needed for hydraulics, depends on the cam lift.

If your stock setup needs to be replaced, the Comp kit should be a good substitute. Although not adjustable, the original style http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350-4...sid=p1638.m118 will work just as well.

What cam are you looking at?

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ if not I'll have to go back to plan A and get the harland sharp roller rockers and have machine shop custom the rods.

It you choose to go that way, http://www.pushrods.net/ might be a better choice.

Norm

[SPEEDROCKET]

As far as cam... I was reading on 442.com that the guy had a good experience with the EDL-7112, once again off of summit racing. That is why I'm also opting for the performer rpm intake, edelbrock.com says the cam is designed for that intake. So are you saying that it's better to have adjustable rocker arms then adjustable pushrods? My personal experience with anything but stock valvetrains are limited. And as far as needing things replaced, the motor is sitting completly tore apart right now in my garage so I'm just trying to come up with a set up that will work for street/strip application. It had about 5000 or so miles on it and then the head gaskets went on it. So I figured, complete rebuild since I didn't build the motor the first time. If I new how to put pics up I could put one up to show casting numbers for that engine, but to new to this forum.

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ EDL-7112 ........

As long as the heads are done correctly, there is no need for an adjustable valvetrain.

........ are you saying that it's better to have adjustable rocker arms then adjustable pushrods? ........

Isn't that what I said? Adjustable pushrods were/are used in applications that do have rocker arms.

........ so I'm just trying to come up with a set up that will work for street/strip application .........

First, I suggest you get a handle on the basics.

........ then the head gaskets went on it ........

What was the cause?

Norm

[SPEEDROCKET]

Originally Posted by 88 coupe

As long as the heads are done correctly, there is no need for an adjustable valvetrain.

What would be done correctly with the heads?

Isn't that what I said? Adjustable pushrods were/are used in applications that do have rocker arms.

I know what you said, I was just asking what was better.

First, I suggest you get a handle on the basics.

I've had the basics since my first oldsmobile, which was my first car I ever bought, its time to get way past that. I'm gunning for high 300's in the hp range and even more TQ. Basics would be just taking a motor that hasn't been machined and adding a new filter and changing out your mufflers. This motor is already .30 over, no wear marks in the cylinders, it's time to put it together for what it was designed for. But last time I centered myself around a few people who talked a good game but didn't deliver when it was time to put this motor together and told me a bunch of crap that didn't work together. This time research is the key.

What was the cause?

My factory gauges failed, mainly tempature gauge, then one day the gauge pegged out all the way right after reading 190 for the longest time, before I could get off the interstate, gaskets went out. So overheating caused it. I am also ordering a 3 core radiator, new water pump, clutch, fan, thermostat with the rest of this engine. Problem elimanated! Lucky for me ther was no further damage to block or heads.

Norm

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ What would be done correctly with the heads? ........

Standard head job, done by a competent machinist. He can walk you through it.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ Basics would be just taking a motor that hasn't been machined and adding a new filter and changing out your mufflers ........

Looks like we do not speak the same language.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ last time I centered myself around a few people who talked a good game but didn't deliver ........

Any competent automotive machinist would have delivered.

Originally Posted by 88 Coupe

........ then one day the gauge pegged out all the way right after reading 190 for the longest time ........

Very clear now. We can see why your engine was a "dud".

........ I am also ordering a 3 core radiator, new water pump, clutch, fan, thermostat with the rest of this engine. Problem elimanated ........

It's your money.

Norm

[Oldsguy]

speedrocket,

Be careful with the information you get on the internet. I realize that you are researching now for the best combination and build for what you want but there are two glaring problems with doing that over the internet. The first is that it can be hard for others to understand what your goals are and what you have to begin with and where you want to end up. The second is that a lot of places can be self serving, any website related to selling products are going to be SELLING first, their recommendations will naturally steer you toward one of their products. Nothing wrong with that but it makes your job harder. Don't let limited knowledge of a subject combined with exuberance for it cloud your decision making process. As Norm noted, you could really help yourself out by finding a local machinist and trusting on his experience when it comes to rebuilding the engine. You could tell him what products you are considering and then he might help you decide if they are needed or not since he is physically there with you and the engine. We just hate to see people throw lots of money at an engine when it may not be necessary. Oldsmobile engines have pretty good torque, especially the big blocks, but the 350 is a very strong engine and a lot of power is available with a fairly stock rebuild if it is done correctly. I am sure you will be happy with it in the end if you just take your time before deciding to buy a lot of stuff you might not need. Good luck.

[Olds64]

That is a bummer that the engine overheated and killed itself. What type of build up are you looking for in your engine? Do you want a streetable motor that you can cruise with on the weekends, or are you looking for a tire shreeding, strip motor?

[SPEEDROCKET]

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

speedrocket,

Be careful with the information you get on the internet. I realize that you are researching now for the best combination and build for what you want but there are two glaring problems with doing that over the internet. The first is that it can be hard for others to understand what your goals are and what you have to begin with and where you want to end up. The second is that a lot of places can be self serving, any website related to selling products are going to be SELLING first, their recommendations will naturally steer you toward one of their products. Nothing wrong with that but it makes your job harder. Don't let limited knowledge of a subject combined with exuberance for it cloud your decision making process. As Norm noted, you could really help yourself out by finding a local machinist and trusting on his experience when it comes to rebuilding the engine. You could tell him what products you are considering and then he might help you decide if they are needed or not since he is physically there with you and the engine. We just hate to see people throw lots of money at an engine when it may not be necessary. Oldsmobile engines have pretty good torque, especially the big blocks, but the 350 is a very strong engine and a lot of power is available with a fairly stock rebuild if it is done correctly. I am sure you will be happy with it in the end if you just take your time before deciding to buy a lot of stuff you might not need. Good luck.

I agree with this information 100%. I do have a very well respected machinist in my town who does motors for people all over the country. I'm not on these sites for a final solution (that's what failed me last time). But I'm on here for ideas and directions to go with this project. Thanks.

[J-(Chicago)]

Just curious....
Why are you not building the 403 instead? I would trade 2 350 blocks for a 403 block.

[SPEEDROCKET]

Originally Posted by Olds64

That is a bummer that the engine overheated and killed itself. What type of build up are you looking for in your engine? Do you want a streetable motor that you can cruise with on the weekends, or are you looking for a tire shreeding, strip motor?

Hey thanks for the reply. I was just in Lawton last week. Toll roads in, toll roads out, whew! Anyway, I'm not looking to do a full race engine by any means. However, I do want something I can cruise some in but still go to the track with and do some damage. I'd like to come as close to 400HP as possible. If this info helps any.

[SPEEDROCKET]

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

Just curious....
Why are you not building the 403 instead? I would trade 2 350 blocks for a 403 block.

Hell, I'll sell you the 403 if you want it. Don't know how many miles are on it for sure, but just playing around I ripped both the motor mounts apart. It runs smooth, and quiet under the hood. Starts right up. I just don't want to deal with the windowed mains.

[J-(Chicago)]

I'll PM you.

[SPEEDROCKET]

Originally Posted by 88 coupe

Standard head job, done by a competent machinist. He can walk you through it.

I was planning on having him check the heads and make sure they are true on the block side. Also, 3 angle valve job, have him check the valve guides. As far as I know they have been all replaced.


Looks like we do not speak the same language.

I apoligize if I'm confusing what your saying, I may have taken that the wrong way.

Any competent automotive machinist would have delivered.

Yes, this is correct. But I thought it would of been better to go with some of these guys who have front tires jerking off the ground when they take off at the line. Even though I'm not exactly looking to put that kind of money into this, still would like to have more than enough power to ripped up so compitition at the track.

Very clear now. We can see why your engine was a "dud".

The guy I traded another car for the motor said that there was paper thin head gaskets used, now, I put all my engines together myself, built seven already very successful so far, but still couldn't understand as to why the head gaskets had to be paper thin.

It's your money.

I understand this, but I just shooting ideas around right now. If you were to have a better suggestion, the by all means, lay it on me. I know I'm very upfront with my comments and belief's, but I am listening. The only reason I was considering replacinig all the coolant system is because it was all stock. Do you think the stock 2-core radiator is adequate?

Norm

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

I was planning on having him check the heads and make sure ........

Part of a standard head job.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ Also, 3 angle valve job ........

Also, part of a standard head job.

I suggest, you let your machinist do his job. Odds are, he knows something you do not.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ I thought it would of been better to go with some of these guys who have front tires jerking off the ground ........

Then, I would go where they hang out. http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewforum....7f98312c35ef2b

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ enough power to ripped up so compitition at the track .........

Then, I would go to the "track" to find out who your "competition" is, and what they might be doing.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ If you were to have a better suggestion ........

My advice is always based on the information given. So far, you have given us little to work with.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ I was considering replacinig all the coolant system is because it was all stock ........

It's your money.

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ Do you think the stock 2-core radiator is adequate?

Did it go 5000 miles with no problems? Isn't your 350 smaller than the 403? Did you lose that head gasket because you let it overheat?

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ there was paper thin head gaskets used ........

What someone else may, or may not, have said, has nothing to do with anything. What did you find when you took the engine apart? What did your machinist tell you about what you found?

Originally Posted by SPEEDROCKET

........ but still couldn't understand as to why the head gaskets had to be paper thin ........

How thin were they? What did your machinist tell you, about them?

Norm

[SPEEDROCKET]

Haven't talk to machinist yet, because I drive truck and haven't been in town. I will fill in the blanks when I get the answers though.