Replacing valve cover gaskets

dallas6778 · November 16th, 2007, 05:39 PM

so my '69 cutlass (350) has leaking valve cover gaskets. the engine still runs well but im tired of the drips and smoke. my mechanic is askin more money than im willing to spend. ive never had to do this before and was wondering what id need to know to do the job myself. thanks for any advice yall can give

Redog · November 16th, 2007, 06:21 PM

Cork gaskets, and a lot of silcone (get the black stuff)

My gaskets came in the kit from Mondellotwister.com. I like the gaskets a lot and highly recommend them.

Pull off the valve covers and undo any brackets that straddle the valve covers (back alt bracket) and remove the vavle cover by pulling straight up after undoing the bolts of course.

I forget what size the bolts are, but you can get to them pretty easy

O yeah, be sure to get all of the old gasket off first. If you don't it will leak again.

I only did the job once, and it took me 1 hour

Olds64 · November 17th, 2007, 08:42 PM

I prefer the rubber gaskets over cork, and make sure you don't overuse RTV. Also, you need to check the valve covers and make sure they aren't dimpled around the bolt holes. They sometimes get dimples in them because people over tighten them. If they are dimpled you can fit a socket around the bolt holes and flatten them out on a bench vise in your garage with a hammer. I usually adhere the gaskets to the valve cover with RTV and let it sit for a good long while before I put the valve covers back on the heads. This allows the RTV to act as a glue so the gasket doesn't fall of the valve cover when you put it in place.

Oldsguy · November 18th, 2007, 02:36 PM

I taught him that....

dallas6778 · November 18th, 2007, 05:51 PM

sounds good... and do i NEED a torque wrench or... if so what are the specs?

J-(Chicago) · November 18th, 2007, 06:11 PM

A torque wrench is always a good thing to use. It all depends on how much you trust yourself though.
A good local auto parts store will let you borrow one for a few hours for free with a deposit or a license.

I believe the spec is 70 Inch LBs

I don't know if they will have the seal breaker tool though.

Oldsguy · November 20th, 2007, 08:10 AM

Or you could use a 3/8 inch ratchet drive and just use your wrist to tighten them down, it doesn't take much as all you are doing is sealing down the gasket, whether cork, rubber or silicone sealant.

kevinkpk · November 20th, 2007, 11:04 AM

might be just tightening them down will do.

November 16th, 2007, 05:39 PM	#1 (permalink)
dallas6778 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 18	Replacing valve cover gaskets so my '69 cutlass (350) has leaking valve cover gaskets. the engine still runs well but im tired of the drips and smoke. my mechanic is askin more money than im willing to spend. ive never had to do this before and was wondering what id need to know to do the job myself. thanks for any advice yall can give

November 18th, 2007, 02:36 PM	#4 (permalink)
Oldsguy Hot Rodder at heart Administrator Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lees Summit MO Posts: 5,360	I taught him that.... __________________ Dan '77 Cutlass Supreme '46 2 door "The rocket 455.....it's a sledgehammer approach to a thumbtack world" LuxBlue of HAMB.

November 18th, 2007, 06:11 PM	#6 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 2,697	A torque wrench is always a good thing to use. It all depends on how much you trust yourself though. A good local auto parts store will let you borrow one for a few hours for free with a deposit or a license. I believe the spec is 70 Inch LBs I don't know if they will have the seal breaker tool though. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand.

November 20th, 2007, 08:10 AM	#7 (permalink)
Oldsguy Hot Rodder at heart Administrator Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lees Summit MO Posts: 5,360	Or you could use a 3/8 inch ratchet drive and just use your wrist to tighten them down, it doesn't take much as all you are doing is sealing down the gasket, whether cork, rubber or silicone sealant. __________________ Dan '77 Cutlass Supreme '46 2 door "The rocket 455.....it's a sledgehammer approach to a thumbtack world" LuxBlue of HAMB.

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November 16th, 2007, 06:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
Redog Alero Chapter Secretary Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Newtown, PA Posts: 1,145	Cork gaskets, and a lot of silcone (get the black stuff) My gaskets came in the kit from Mondellotwister.com. I like the gaskets a lot and highly recommend them. Pull off the valve covers and undo any brackets that straddle the valve covers (back alt bracket) and remove the vavle cover by pulling straight up after undoing the bolts of course. I forget what size the bolts are, but you can get to them pretty easy O yeah, be sure to get all of the old gasket off first. If you don't it will leak again. I only did the job once, and it took me 1 hour

November 17th, 2007, 08:42 PM	#3 (permalink)
Olds64 Landyacht Club President Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Lawton, OK Posts: 4,286	I prefer the rubber gaskets over cork, and make sure you don't overuse RTV. Also, you need to check the valve covers and make sure they aren't dimpled around the bolt holes. They sometimes get dimples in them because people over tighten them. If they are dimpled you can fit a socket around the bolt holes and flatten them out on a bench vise in your garage with a hammer. I usually adhere the gaskets to the valve cover with RTV and let it sit for a good long while before I put the valve covers back on the heads. This allows the RTV to act as a glue so the gasket doesn't fall of the valve cover when you put it in place.

November 18th, 2007, 05:51 PM	#5 (permalink)
dallas6778 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 18	sounds good... and do i NEED a torque wrench or... if so what are the specs?

November 20th, 2007, 11:04 AM	#8 (permalink)
kevinkpk Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: west Posts: 211	might be just tightening them down will do.

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