Rebuliding an olds 350

[xlntryde]

I wanted some suggestions from all you guys out there that know the olds engine.. I got a 72 442 350 4bbl.. I would like to get high 300's - 400 hp.Its already bored out .30, I plan on getting it decked.. I just want some suggestions on what size cams to get, intake manifold, headers and all that stuff from you guys who build engines on a daily basis.

[Oldsguy]

I don't build on a daily basis so I don't qualify to make any good suggestions but I do want to welcome you to our site. What you have for a goal is attainable but I would suggest to watch how high you make that static cr since gas is high as a kite and it is hard to find good high octane fuel in many places.

[Olds64]

I think you should put a K&N air filter on it. That would give you a good HP boost. Actually, I know little about building engines, but welcome to the site.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by Olds64

I think you should put a K&N air filter on it. That would give you a good HP boost. Actually, I know little about building engines, but welcome to the site.

Once again, I'll caution against the K&N and similar filters. The reason they flow more air is because they let more dirt through. Many, many tests have been done that show increased engine wear when using these filters. I'd recommend frequent changes of AC filters.

[J-(Chicago)]

I'm with Joe on this one. I put a k&n on at 40000 miles and was rebuilding the carb at 80000. After that I went back to stock, and now I'm at 143000 miles with no troubles at all. Change it when you change the oil. I bought 15 filters at 3 or 4 bucks a pop a few years ago.

[J-(Chicago)]

as far as builds go, you'd be better off looking at hod rod magazine's various builds. they always have a lot of info on what they did.

And when you're bored check out this Dick Miller build. http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng...ler/index.html

[Oldsguy]

Olds64 was kidding, but I think you all knew that. He has been doing that since he was a kid..........wonder where he got that from???

[Redog]

Rebuild a 350 for 300 to 400 HP?

Easy

New Cam (.496/.512 is the hiest I'd go for street)
Dual Plain high rise manifold (Edelbrock makes a nice one)
750 CFM carb (to feed that hungry engine)
new pistons (12.1 CR pistions for BB heads)
new rods (stronger)
new rocker arms (need with new cam)
new pushrods (need with new cam)
stainless valves (Lighter)
3 angle valve job
big block heads, .010 milled (Bring CR down from 79 or 80cc back to 69 to 70cc)
headers (helps move exhaust)
x pipe dual exhasut (Proven to make more power than true dual)
chambered mufflers (Proven to make more power than staigth thrus)
electric fan (reduces drag on motor)
also doesn't hurt to have
tranny cooler
2000 to 2500 torqure convertor
tach
oil pressure gauge

[Oldsguy]

Originally Posted by Redog

electric fan (reduces drag on motor)

I read/witnessed a really nasty thread over at another site where about five guys argued to the "end of the world" about whether electric accessories like fans and water pumps would put more drag on an engine than their mechanical counterparts. The sad thing, not a single person was an electrical engineer or a mechanical engineer nor had any scientific measurements or proof to back up their respective claims. It got down to name calling and flaming and nobody benefited from the entire thread. Except to know who to avoid in future threads.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by Oldsguy

I read/witnessed a really nasty thread over at another site where about five guys argued to the "end of the world" about whether electric accessories like fans and water pumps would put more drag on an engine than their mechanical counterparts. The sad thing, not a single person was an electrical engineer or a mechanical engineer nor had any scientific measurements or proof to back up their respective claims. It got down to name calling and flaming and nobody benefited from the entire thread. Except to know who to avoid in future threads.

I'm not sure about the HP drag, but I've always been of the belief that a mechanical fan will more more air than an electric. Now, having said that, I just read an article about the move by automakers to convert accessories like the PS pump and the A/C compressor to electric drive to safe fuel. The hybrid cars have already done this (so the A/C runs with the car on electric power only, for example).

[xlntryde]

I ordered some parts last week.. I got the edelbrock performer rpm intake, comp cam .496/.520 ,new magnum rocker arms with forged pushrods, 650 holly carb, hooker headers, going with a 3 angle valve job port and polished

[Redog]

^^ That will help you out a lot

[xlntryde]

how rough of an idle is that??

[Redog]

Should still be "streetable" and will have a nice "lopy" idle

[texasred]

Originally Posted by xlntryde

I ordered some parts last week.. I got the edelbrock performer rpm intake, comp cam .496/.520 ,new magnum rocker arms with forged pushrods, 650 holly carb, hooker headers, going with a 3 angle valve job port and polished

I'll witness to all that being a good street combo, cause that's my setup...except for the carburetor.

You simply can not beat a well-built QJet. I ran a 650 Ebrock (squarebore like a Holley) and it did not outperform my QJet...except in wasting a lot of gas in town. The QJet gives you streetability and raceability and can be pro-built for much less than a new carburetor that won't perform as well.

BTW, that's a great cam. Nice lope (if you care about the sound). You can run power brakes and AC with it and still kick some major @ss when needed.

Just my experience....your mileage may vary.

C.J.

[captjim]

Originally Posted by Redog

Rebuild a 350 for 300 to 400 HP?

Easy

New Cam (.496/.512 is the hiest I'd go for street)
Dual Plain high rise manifold (Edelbrock makes a nice one)
750 CFM carb (to feed that hungry engine)
new pistons (12.1 CR pistions for BB heads)
new rods (stronger)
new rocker arms (need with new cam)
new pushrods (need with new cam)
stainless valves (Lighter)
3 angle valve job
big block heads, .010 milled (Bring CR down from 79 or 80cc back to 69 to 70cc)
headers (helps move exhaust)
x pipe dual exhasut (Proven to make more power than true dual)
chambered mufflers (Proven to make more power than staigth thrus)
electric fan (reduces drag on motor)
also doesn't hurt to have
tranny cooler
2000 to 2500 torqure convertor
tach
oil pressure gauge

I find this post extremely confusing. Why would you want to put BBO heads on a SBO? 12 to 1 pistons???? Stronger rods where? Who makes affordable aftermarket SBO rods? As for the electric fan, doing tests in my high 13 second car I found that underdrive pulleys and the electric fan were both worth about a tenth. But, I turn the fan off so there is no drag on the alt. Also, I believe Joe is correct that a mechanical fan will move more air. Also with "Red", if you already have the Q-jet, get it rebuilt. But, I will dissent about that cam. Lazy ramps. There are MUCH better ones out there now. Of course, it depends on which pistons you choose the the cr you end up with. Use the 7a heads, 6cc Speed Pros and you end up with right around 10 to 1, give or take. Look at the new Lunati Voodoo cams, VERY nice!! I like this one, 60801;

• Advertised Duration IN/EX: 256/262
• Duration @ .050 IN/EX: 213/219
• Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .485"/.499"
• LSA / ICL: 112/108
• Valve Lash IN/EX: Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-5300

Great looking #s for a street car, IMO.

[xlntryde]

i'll try to post up some pics of the car and parts i got

[xlntryde]

Here are some pics so you guys get an idea of what I'm working with here..

[xlntryde]

[Dapapadon]

Nice car!

Don

[Jim's rare 80]

[url="http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g238/anamccleary/pavement%20sucks%20stuff/?action=view&current=IMG_0933.jpg"][

Isn't your breather facing the wrong way. It should look like this.

[xlntryde]

yea, I'm rebuilding the top end though so I'll fix it then...