65 cutlass throttle linkage issue, edelbrock carb

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Old June 8th, 2011, 12:54 PM
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65 cutlass throttle linkage issue, edelbrock carb

so i was tinkering under the hood over the weekend, and realized that my accelerator pedal linkage is not opening the throttle on the carb itself all the way. i would say it's only opening it about 85%. i had a friend of mine sit in the car and stand on the gas pedal, and i could still puch the throttle with my thumb about another 1/4", and that's when the 2nd set of barrels open up....i feel like i am really missing out on some power without having that last 15% of throttle!! i mean, that's when the 2nd 2 barrels really come into play, correct??

now, i have the adjusting sleeve tightened up as far as it can go on the linkage rod (from carb linkage to the firewall-mounted linkage bracket thingy) so i am wondering what my next step should be to alleviate this problem....i was thinking maybe cut down that linkage rod connecting to the carb, so that i can then tighten up the adjusting sleeve a little more and get that extra pull at the end?? help me out....can i manipulate the pedal linkage under the dash at all??
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Old June 8th, 2011, 01:22 PM
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is there another hole on the side of throttle arm closer to the shaft? that will do the same thing, look right where the linkage attaches to the carb. a hole closer to the center will have a shorter distance to move to wot.
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Old June 8th, 2011, 01:54 PM
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okay, i will check that out....i figured there must be some other adjustment or change that i could make in the linkage to correct that problem.
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Old June 9th, 2011, 05:45 PM
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I had the same problem...installing a Lokar cable system to solve the lack of travel problem...64-67 chevelle unit works on the olds as well...Im just putting the finishing touches on it tomorrow and Im hoping for a big improvement...
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Old June 9th, 2011, 05:54 PM
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Let me know how that works out!!! I have fiddled with a few different things and havn't been able to get anymore travel with the factory setup. So I take it you are going to remove the entire stock linkage and factory pedal? and replace with all lokar parts?? Pedal assembly and cable?? What did it cost you for the parts, if u don't mind??


I really like ur 65 too, btw!!! That's the same color mine was before the resto.

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Old June 9th, 2011, 06:13 PM
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You need to mount the throttle rod lower on the carb arm, I had the same problem and that solved it, if your car has that old switch pitch mechanism on the fire wall some of them had an adjustment down low in the linkage you can move also.
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Old June 9th, 2011, 07:02 PM
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Sometimes you can tweak the linkage by bending it to shorten the overall length, it may not take much. When I installed my carb spacer I needed a longer rod so I made one out of a piece of 1/4" round stock. On one end I put a 90 degree bend with a flat washer welded to it to keep it from sliding through at the carb. Once it was cut to the proper length I welded a 1/4-28 socket head cap screw on the other end. This allows me to reuse the factory ball socket and still allows about an inch of adjustment.

Total cost was about $5 including the cotter pin.
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Old June 9th, 2011, 07:18 PM
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Yeah it does have the switch pitch mechanism on the firewall, I will try over the weekend to straighten it out.

From what I can see, the lokar pedal/cable/bracket would run about $300.
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Old June 9th, 2011, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 1965cutlassragtop
Yeah it does have the switch pitch mechanism on the firewall, I will try over the weekend to straighten it out.

From what I can see, the lokar pedal/cable/bracket would run about $300.


The Lokar cost me 200.00 but I got it through my wholesale account at work...It seems to go in easy enough...just have to play with the carb bracket a bit so it doesnt interfere with my 2004r throttle cable

...As for the car...I have two yellow ones...the one in the pic is original...the other one that im putting the cable unit into is my attempt to modernize with new technology....8 yrs and still playing around ... I like the color of your car better than the yellow..
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Old June 10th, 2011, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 442scotty
The Lokar cost me 200.00 but I got it through my wholesale account at work...It seems to go in easy enough...just have to play with the carb bracket a bit so it doesnt interfere with my 2004r throttle cable

...As for the car...I have two yellow ones...the one in the pic is original...the other one that im putting the cable unit into is my attempt to modernize with new technology....8 yrs and still playing around ... I like the color of your car better than the yellow..
Yeah, I went with the modernized approach with my car also. And as far the lokar stuff, I found a guy on eBay selling the gas pedal, matching brake pedal, & throttle cable for about $225. Then the lokar bracket for Edelbrock carbs which hosts the throttle and kickdown cable is about $60-70. But I like how clean the lokar setup will look, so please keep me posted on how your install goes please, I may just go that route, as I always felt the factory linkage was ugly, takes up alot of space, and since I swapped the tranny I do not need that electronic kickdown bracket anymore.
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Old June 10th, 2011, 07:07 AM
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Will do...should have her done today...
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Old June 10th, 2011, 08:18 PM
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All done...Lokar cable setup for a 64-67 chevelle works just fine in a 65 cutlass...went in nice and smooth...a little tweaking of my trans (200r4) bracket and it works great with my edelbrock carb/manifold/455 setup...took about 2 hours. Sure beats the old linkage....
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Old June 11th, 2011, 06:53 AM
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so did the lokar pedal mount right up correctly under the dash?? i noticed it has that one goldish bracket that mounts somewhere under the dash, that was all correct?? and how about the secondaries, do they now open when the pedal is floored?? was there any performance improvement, i imagine it's got a little more pull and a little more rumble??
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Old June 11th, 2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ROBZ442
Sometimes you can tweak the linkage by bending it to shorten the overall length, it may not take much. ...
When I swapped the original 330 in mine to a 455 with a Torker and Holley 600, I found the throttle rod was too long. I had to bend it to allow me to get full travel. Here's a comparison shot of the stock piece vs. my modified version.

(click to enlarge)

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Old June 11th, 2011, 02:22 PM
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Holley might be different...the edelbrock carb wont travel much with the stock linkage...too short for sure...the Lokar bracket is a direct bolt in where the stock bracket goes on the firewall...huge difference in travel with the cable set up...no problems stomping on it now...pedal in a good location...no complaints from me
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Old June 11th, 2011, 02:38 PM
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You're saying that two bolt bracket on the Lokar assembly bolts to the original holes in your Olds firewall?
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Old June 12th, 2011, 07:45 AM
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yup...looks like the same firewall in chev and olds...
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Old June 12th, 2011, 04:57 PM
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Nice, well I may bend up my factory rod for now just to get it opening the secondaries. I will definately be adding the pedal and cable. I already have a stainless lokar kickdown cable installed...so I'm thinking getting rid of the factory linkage and pedal, swapping it all out with the lokar setup, and get their billet throttle/kickdown/return spring bracket for the Edelbrock carbs they make. Should add some cleanliness to the interior and engine compartment. I just can't wait to feel it pulling at full throttle!!!
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Old June 12th, 2011, 07:01 PM
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shortening the rod will not resolve your problem.
In fact, if you do that you may wind up not being able to get it to return to the closed idle position.

The problem is the oldsmobile throttle linkage thing at the firewall does not have enough throw for the other carburators.

To fix it properly, you need to take it apart and add 1/2-1" to teh legth of the lever that the throttle linkage attaches to.

If you do that, then readjust, you'll have no problem getting WOT.

Of course doing that is a PITA, but its cheaper than the lokar...

Personally when i put in my 455 next year i'm switching over to a lokar setup.
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Old June 12th, 2011, 07:21 PM
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The first thing that needs to be checked is that the pivot assembly is getting full motion of travel forward and backwards. When I changed the intake on my 66 I had to shorten the linkage by bending it slightly to allow the pivot to swing forward further. By doing this it allowed my gas pedal to move further from the floor which allowed for a longer stroke at the pedal. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect teh linkage at the carb and see if the linkage will move past the mounting hole. If it does then you still have forward travel in the pivot assembly.
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Old June 12th, 2011, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBZ442
The first thing that needs to be checked is that the pivot assembly is getting full motion of travel forward and backwards. When I changed the intake on my 66 I had to shorten the linkage by bending it slightly to allow the pivot to swing forward further. By doing this it allowed my gas pedal to move further from the floor which allowed for a longer stroke at the pedal. The easiest way to do this is to disconnect teh linkage at the carb and see if the linkage will move past the mounting hole. If it does then you still have forward travel in the pivot assembly.
Rambow is nut on as they say. The travel in the mechanism won't allow a full stroke on an ebrock. If you shorten the rod, you won't be able to close to idle and that ain't no fun. Need to switch as Scotty did or modify the mechanism on the firewall with and extension that allows a longer travel or shorten it on the card by modifying the throttle lever.
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Old June 13th, 2011, 01:37 PM
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I messed with it today, disassembled the entire factory linkage and tried to get it to open all the way....it wouldn't. I even cut the treaded end of the carb rod to shortenen it. The pedal and firewall pivot were fully extended, it still wouldn't do it. So I left it pretty much the way it was, and will be purchasing the lokar setup. Well worth it to me, and after even further inspection, I'd say I'm only getting about 70% throttle with the factory linkage....not what I want. Can't wait to get the cable and pedal and stomp on it!!
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Old June 13th, 2011, 04:57 PM
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Here's how I did mine and it works. When the rod was straight mine would not open all the way either.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Picture 090.jpg (90.3 KB, 149 views)
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Old June 13th, 2011, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jag1886
Here's how I did mine and it works. When the rod was straight mine would not open all the way either.
U got a Holley carb there and it looks like you have a high rise intake manifold. It's a bit different than my setup. I believe the holley carbs have a shorter throw in their linkage, maybe not. Shortening my rod would cause it not to idle correctly for sure.
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Old June 13th, 2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 1965cutlassragtop
U got a Holley carb there and it looks like you have a high rise intake manifold. It's a bit different than my setup. I believe the holley carbs have a shorter throw in their linkage, maybe not. Shortening my rod would cause it not to idle correctly for sure.
If you have an Edelbrock the throttle arms are almost identical, if you look at closer at what I did: I just changed the working angle of the linkage, it actually took a longer piece of linkage not shorter.
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Old June 15th, 2011, 11:48 AM
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@442scotty....so did you notice a difference in the power and performance since you swapped for the lokar cable setup?? i can feel this purchase in the very near future for me....
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Old June 16th, 2011, 11:42 AM
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I have to say yes...Much better pedal feel...dont get the shaking pedal feel from engine movement as well...just nicer all around
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 442scotty
I have to say yes...Much better pedal feel...dont get the shaking pedal feel from engine movement as well...just nicer all around
that's awesome, glad to hear it!!! i have made the purchase, awaiting the arrival now. i got the 64-67 chevelle throttle assembly, 24" stainless steel cable, and the billet aluminum thottle/kickdown bracket made specifically for edelbork carbs. so needless to say, i am anxious to make the swap!! my car will be sitting on jack stands for about a week or so while i strip the front end to make way for my new control arms, steering linkage, and disc brake conversion....so i will be installing the lokar setup in the midst of all that as well...should be a busy couple of weeks for me!!! i'll follow up when she's rolling again with an update.
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 1965cutlassragtop
that's awesome, glad to hear it!!! i have made the purchase, awaiting the arrival now. i got the 64-67 chevelle throttle assembly, 24" stainless steel cable, and the billet aluminum thottle/kickdown bracket made specifically for edelbork carbs. so needless to say, i am anxious to make the swap!! my car will be sitting on jack stands for about a week or so while i strip the front end to make way for my new control arms, steering linkage, and disc brake conversion....so i will be installing the lokar setup in the midst of all that as well...should be a busy couple of weeks for me!!! i'll follow up when she's rolling again with an update.
Cheaper option is to move the attachment point to the top hole on the firewall assembly. I simply took a ss round screw, ground it round on the bench grinder and double nuted it into place. Moving it gives you more throw then in the current front location. I'm running a 750 Edelbrock on a 425 in a 65 cutlass. That simple movement allows the carb to fully function, idel to WOT. total cost was zero. Prob too late but as referance for others.
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 10:13 AM
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i don't know if maybe my factory linkage is tweaked or what, but the rod is already attatched to the highest hole on the firewall assembly, and still i get nowhere near WOT....i messed with the factory linkage for about 2 hours, with no luck.
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Old June 22nd, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 1965cutlassragtop
i don't know if maybe my factory linkage is tweaked or what, but the rod is already attatched to the highest hole on the firewall assembly, and still i get nowhere near WOT....i messed with the factory linkage for about 2 hours, with no luck.
Send me your e-mail and I'll send you a couple pictures later today. I'd do it here but haven't mastered downsizing them to fit.
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Old June 26th, 2011, 05:20 PM
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Well I got the cable installed, here are a few pics of how it came out. Looks much cleaner than the factory linkage, that's for sure. And definately has more growl and more pull!!

55dac70a.jpg

8ecbc856.jpg
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Old June 26th, 2011, 05:27 PM
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Is the gold piece I'm seeing just behind the valve cover the Lokar throttle bracket end?
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Old June 26th, 2011, 05:55 PM
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That is the bracket that attaches to the throttle pedal inside the car, it mounts perfectly in the factory location and uses the factory bolts on the firewall.
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Old June 26th, 2011, 06:19 PM
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Looks great! Nice pics and a nice clean job!...mine is still roughed in
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Old June 26th, 2011, 06:34 PM
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Thanks!!! I think I could still tweak the cable and pedal position a little bit, but it drove really good today when I took it for a few quick rides to make sure everything was good. So I'll just continue working it until I got it dialed in. Much more power coming out that 330 now, I like!!!
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Old March 17th, 2017, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 1965cutlassragtop
That is the bracket that attaches to the throttle pedal inside the car, it mounts perfectly in the factory location and uses the factory bolts on the firewall.
HI, first time poster, I am working on doing same conversion, was wondering do you have part number info for bracket that is on firewall? And could I request a closer picture of that bracket and pedal setup inside?

I have the cable setup but couldn't find what else I needed to complete the install.

Thanks! Btw - nice install!
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Old March 18th, 2017, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Titanium
HI, first time poster, I am working on doing same conversion, was wondering do you have part number info for bracket that is on firewall? And could I request a closer picture of that bracket and pedal setup inside?

I have the cable setup but couldn't find what else I needed to complete the install.

Thanks! Btw - nice install!
Welcome. The problem with resurrecting a six year old thread is that the OP hasn't posted on this site since 2012.
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