Best way to start a car after sitting up for 6 years
March 27th, 2010, 11:56 AM
#1
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Best way to start a car after sitting up for 6 years
i have a 1972 olds cutlass s and i had the engine rebulit about 5 and a half years ago i started it up every so often then put it in a storage outside for the bulk of the years past is there a good aproach to trying to get it started?
March 30th, 2010, 07:11 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
I would pull the spark plugs, squirt a little oil in each cylinder then crank the engine over until it has oil pressure with the spark plugs out so there is minimal load on the engine till it gets oil pressure. Put some new plugs and new gas in it then start it up. Probably would drain the coolant and refill that also along with an oil change.
May 17th, 2010, 08:06 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 28
I would pull the spark plugs, squirt a little oil in each cylinder then crank the engine over until it has oil pressure with the spark plugs out so there is minimal load on the engine till it gets oil pressure. Put some new plugs and new gas in it then start it up. Probably would drain the coolant and refill that also along with an oil change.
May 17th, 2010, 08:45 AM
#5
Ben
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 1,823
6 years is nothing if it was stored properly and ran before it was parked- really requires nothing special. maybe shoot some starting fluid in to the carb. I would not bother replacing the plugs and shooting anything in the cylinders.
if you really want to be careful, Disconnect the power wire from the HEI, bump the starter a few times to ensure it gets oil pumped up to the top end- then reconnect the power, spray the starting fluid and crank it up.
if you really want to be careful, Disconnect the power wire from the HEI, bump the starter a few times to ensure it gets oil pumped up to the top end- then reconnect the power, spray the starting fluid and crank it up.
May 18th, 2010, 02:34 AM
#6
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 2,200
I just bought my 1970 Olds 442 clone summer 2009 off my Uncle after it sat for 6 years.
To get it started , these are the recommendations I was given by multiple car enthusiasts.
1. Spark plugs out - squirt some oil into each cylinder
Why ?? Because the rings might need to break loose from the cylinder walls.
2. All new fluids in the car and verify all fluids are level.
3. I put all new spark plugs into the engine.
4. I had to bang on the starter with a BFH and short it to crank it and break loose.
5. If #4 doesn't work, hand crank engine by balancer bolt and BIG wrench
This is why the oil in the cylinders is important. Makes it simpler
#6. All new gas is a must.
My gas in my Camaro was only 2 years old but it wouldn't even ignite with a lighter.
I had to drain my entire tank, fuel lines, and fuel rails.
To get it started , these are the recommendations I was given by multiple car enthusiasts.
1. Spark plugs out - squirt some oil into each cylinder
Why ?? Because the rings might need to break loose from the cylinder walls.
2. All new fluids in the car and verify all fluids are level.
3. I put all new spark plugs into the engine.
4. I had to bang on the starter with a BFH and short it to crank it and break loose.
5. If #4 doesn't work, hand crank engine by balancer bolt and BIG wrench
This is why the oil in the cylinders is important. Makes it simpler
#6. All new gas is a must.
My gas in my Camaro was only 2 years old but it wouldn't even ignite with a lighter.
I had to drain my entire tank, fuel lines, and fuel rails.
Last edited by Aceshigh; May 18th, 2010 at 03:42 AM.
May 18th, 2010, 12:13 PM
#7
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Location: Emmen Drenthe (Netherlands)
Posts: 586
I'l put oil and wd 40 in the plug gap's and oil on the valves and let it soak i while.
And trie to move the cilinders with a wrench on the crankpulley.
this methode a few time so al the resideu in the pistonrings is getting loose.
than i start it with old pistons a few times letting the oil flowing around the engine.
most times it works real fine.
But when the pistonrings are stuck and rusty it would be a diverend methode.
put new ones, or soak it in more agressive stuff like brakefluiend.
than you have to change to oil right after it.
mine 88 was standing stil like 10 years, soaked the pistons in oil, wait a day.
And tried it crank manualy.
was easy going, checked the cilinders of resedeu with a flashlight.
i did not rush it and crancked it manualy several times before starting,
most important is the oil, parts are dried out of lubricant and it takes time to return.
And trie to move the cilinders with a wrench on the crankpulley.
this methode a few time so al the resideu in the pistonrings is getting loose.
than i start it with old pistons a few times letting the oil flowing around the engine.
most times it works real fine.
But when the pistonrings are stuck and rusty it would be a diverend methode.
put new ones, or soak it in more agressive stuff like brakefluiend.
than you have to change to oil right after it.
mine 88 was standing stil like 10 years, soaked the pistons in oil, wait a day.
And tried it crank manualy.
was easy going, checked the cilinders of resedeu with a flashlight.
i did not rush it and crancked it manualy several times before starting,
most important is the oil, parts are dried out of lubricant and it takes time to return.
June 1st, 2010, 01:43 PM
#9
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 22
Priming the oil pump.
I find it amusing when people suggest to ‘prime the oil pump’. I doubt if they understand what really is required to ‘prime the pump’ with the engine in the vehicle.
To ‘prime the pump’, first the distributor must be removed, which leads to the last issue in ‘priming the pump’, correctly positioning the distributor back.
Before removing the distributor, the location of the rotor should be marked so the distributor can be put back in the same position. Next, the gear shaft that is connected to the cam and oil pump needs to be removed. I found that most of these gear shafts has a Spiral Bevel Gear on the connecting to the cam shaft, which makes removing it very difficult. Not only do you have to pull it out, but you are required to pull and turn at the same time. Most of the time this gear shaft is locked into the cam gear, (because of wear) and is very, very difficult to remove and even harder to place back into the original position. Some gear shafts have a top slot for the distributor to fit into, so on these type of gear shafts there is only one position for the distributor to line-up. Marking the slot position helps to locate the correct position, but remember this is Spiral Bevel Gear, so it will rotate as it settles after you drop it in .
OK, after all the above is done, the ‘priming the pump’ can finally be done, but to do that you will either need to make a hex shaft to insert into the oil pump, or buy one.
Then the fun begins to putting everything back in the proper position.
Now, perhaps you can pull a oil plug, or senor, and pour oil directly into the oil gallery, which is a lot easier.
Hand turning the crank, is just like turn the engine over with the starter, so I don't know why others suggest that, (like than turning the engine via the starter).
I would remove the old gas, it probably is turpentine now. I would also remove and rebuild the Carb. Also, squirt a limited amount of oil into the each cyclinder is a good idea, hint limited, you don't want to put so much in it that it hampers air/fuel ratio. Don't squirt anything on the plugs. You don't want to do anything to make it hard to fire. Inspecting the plugs is a good idea; If they look good I would just check and regap if required.
To ‘prime the pump’, first the distributor must be removed, which leads to the last issue in ‘priming the pump’, correctly positioning the distributor back.
Before removing the distributor, the location of the rotor should be marked so the distributor can be put back in the same position. Next, the gear shaft that is connected to the cam and oil pump needs to be removed. I found that most of these gear shafts has a Spiral Bevel Gear on the connecting to the cam shaft, which makes removing it very difficult. Not only do you have to pull it out, but you are required to pull and turn at the same time. Most of the time this gear shaft is locked into the cam gear, (because of wear) and is very, very difficult to remove and even harder to place back into the original position. Some gear shafts have a top slot for the distributor to fit into, so on these type of gear shafts there is only one position for the distributor to line-up. Marking the slot position helps to locate the correct position, but remember this is Spiral Bevel Gear, so it will rotate as it settles after you drop it in .
OK, after all the above is done, the ‘priming the pump’ can finally be done, but to do that you will either need to make a hex shaft to insert into the oil pump, or buy one.
Then the fun begins to putting everything back in the proper position.
Now, perhaps you can pull a oil plug, or senor, and pour oil directly into the oil gallery, which is a lot easier.
Hand turning the crank, is just like turn the engine over with the starter, so I don't know why others suggest that, (like than turning the engine via the starter).
I would remove the old gas, it probably is turpentine now. I would also remove and rebuild the Carb. Also, squirt a limited amount of oil into the each cyclinder is a good idea, hint limited, you don't want to put so much in it that it hampers air/fuel ratio. Don't squirt anything on the plugs. You don't want to do anything to make it hard to fire. Inspecting the plugs is a good idea; If they look good I would just check and regap if required.
Last edited by 66OldsOwner; June 1st, 2010 at 06:47 PM. Reason: added additional text and corrected errors
June 1st, 2010, 06:32 PM
#10
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Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 22
Change the Oil and Filter too.
I would also dump the oil and filter before attempting to start it.
Someone mentioned pouring the oil directly into each bank of valve trains, (right and left valve covers), which is a very good idea.
I would divide the required oil and pour half in each. Also, put oil in the filter. Oil drains down so the top end is probably where it is dry. That is the extent of 'pump priming' I would do.
Someone mentioned pouring the oil directly into each bank of valve trains, (right and left valve covers), which is a very good idea.
I would divide the required oil and pour half in each. Also, put oil in the filter. Oil drains down so the top end is probably where it is dry. That is the extent of 'pump priming' I would do.
June 1st, 2010, 08:56 PM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 42
I had my 77 Salon sitting for 23 years, I pulled the plugs, squirted oil in the cylinders and cranked it over by hand a few times (you're probably right, no different than using the starter, but that's how I did it). I put the old plugs back in poured a little gas in the carb and it started with just a couple of cranks. Even ran pretty good on 23 year old gas! Then I found the cracked seam in the gas tank (after adding $30 worth of gas). Changed oil, coolant, and gas tank.
August 19th, 2011, 02:52 AM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2
my cutlass was sitting for 27 years, pulled the valve covers put some mystery oil in the pistons .. just a squirt. new plugs, wires, battery, oil and gas ...it started in three turns of the key ...poured white smoke for a solid 10 minutes ...neighbors came over to make sure my house wasnt on fire....the thing has been running clean ever since.
August 19th, 2011, 09:05 AM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,497
you guys go much farther than i do. i just put a battery in them and start cranking. if it don't start right away i put a little gas in the vent on top of the carburetor. then if it don't start i dribble just a little gas in the intake. by that time if it don't stay running i start cleaning the carb and tank and check the fuel pump.
August 19th, 2011, 11:51 AM
#14
i find it amusing when people suggest to ‘prime the oil pump’. I doubt if they understand what really is required to ‘prime the pump’ with the engine in the vehicle.
to ‘prime the pump’, first the distributor must be removed, which leads to the last issue in ‘priming the pump’, correctly positioning the distributor back.
before removing the distributor, the location of the rotor should be marked so the distributor can be put back in the same position. Next, the gear shaft that is connected to the cam and oil pump needs to be removed. I found that most of these gear shafts has a spiral bevel gear on the connecting to the cam shaft, which makes removing it very difficult. Not only do you have to pull it out, but you are required to pull and turn at the same time. Most of the time this gear shaft is locked into the cam gear, (because of wear) and is very, very difficult to remove and even harder to place back into the original position. Some gear shafts have a top slot for the distributor to fit into, so on these type of gear shafts there is only one position for the distributor to line-up. Marking the slot position helps to locate the correct position, but remember this is spiral bevel gear, so it will rotate as it settles after you drop it in .
ok, after all the above is done, the ‘priming the pump’ can finally be done, but to do that you will either need to make a hex shaft to insert into the oil pump, or buy one.
then the fun begins to putting everything back in the proper position.
now, perhaps you can pull a oil plug, or senor, and pour oil directly into the oil gallery, which is a lot easier.
hand turning the crank, is just like turn the engine over with the starter, so i don't know why others suggest that, (like than turning the engine via the starter).
i would remove the old gas, it probably is turpentine now. I would also remove and rebuild the carb. also, squirt a limited amount of oil into the each cyclinder is a good idea, hint limited, you don't want to put so much in it that it hampers air/fuel ratio. Don't squirt anything on the plugs. You don't want to do anything to make it hard to fire. Inspecting the plugs is a good idea; if they look good i would just check and regap if required.
to ‘prime the pump’, first the distributor must be removed, which leads to the last issue in ‘priming the pump’, correctly positioning the distributor back.
before removing the distributor, the location of the rotor should be marked so the distributor can be put back in the same position. Next, the gear shaft that is connected to the cam and oil pump needs to be removed. I found that most of these gear shafts has a spiral bevel gear on the connecting to the cam shaft, which makes removing it very difficult. Not only do you have to pull it out, but you are required to pull and turn at the same time. Most of the time this gear shaft is locked into the cam gear, (because of wear) and is very, very difficult to remove and even harder to place back into the original position. Some gear shafts have a top slot for the distributor to fit into, so on these type of gear shafts there is only one position for the distributor to line-up. Marking the slot position helps to locate the correct position, but remember this is spiral bevel gear, so it will rotate as it settles after you drop it in .
ok, after all the above is done, the ‘priming the pump’ can finally be done, but to do that you will either need to make a hex shaft to insert into the oil pump, or buy one.
then the fun begins to putting everything back in the proper position.
now, perhaps you can pull a oil plug, or senor, and pour oil directly into the oil gallery, which is a lot easier.
hand turning the crank, is just like turn the engine over with the starter, so i don't know why others suggest that, (like than turning the engine via the starter).
i would remove the old gas, it probably is turpentine now. I would also remove and rebuild the carb. also, squirt a limited amount of oil into the each cyclinder is a good idea, hint limited, you don't want to put so much in it that it hampers air/fuel ratio. Don't squirt anything on the plugs. You don't want to do anything to make it hard to fire. Inspecting the plugs is a good idea; if they look good i would just check and regap if required.
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