330 fuel pump replacement
#1
330 fuel pump replacement
I've read in a shop manual that the fuel pump is pleasantly easy to replace, but I've got a couple of questions:
1. How do I know if the lever is on the cam correctly?
2. Do I need to lubricate the new pump in any way before I bolt it down?
1. How do I know if the lever is on the cam correctly?
2. Do I need to lubricate the new pump in any way before I bolt it down?
#2
So long as you install the pump right side up (pipe fittings on top), you can't get the lever installed incorrectly. If the eccentric lobe is up, you will have to press on the pump to compress the internal spring to get the bolt/nut started. You can bump the motor to move the eccentric around to the low spot to make this easier.
A dab of grease on the part of the pump lever that rides on the eccentric won't hurt, but I can't say that I've ever done this religiously.
2. Do I need to lubricate the new pump in any way before I bolt it down?
#3
I just replaced the fuel pump on my '78 Toronado and it is exactly as Joe describes. I had to push the pump onto the mounting bolts to compress the spring. In fact, I found it easier to attach the bottom bolt first and tighten it most of the way. This pushes the top of the pump in far enough to get a nut on the threaded rod sticking out at the top. So, yes, there are not two bolts for this. There is a bolt at the bottom but a threaded rod sticking out at the top that you slip the pump bracket over and thread the washer and nut.
I did put a little grease on the pivot points of the arm.
I would not, however, say that it was "pleasantly easy" to replace, especially if the car has air conditioning, as one of the support braces passes almost directly over the pump. I unbolted one end of that brace and moved it out of the way. Even with that, the pump is down low on the engine, so it's hard to get a hand and a wrench down there, especially for the bottom bolt. Compressing the little spring clips to remove the rubber lines can be a bit of a bear, too, if they're not aligned well to get a pair of pliers over.
I found it easier to get at the bottom bolt from underneath the car, and that's much easier to do if the front end is raised. In my case, I had the front end raised, anyway, because I was changing the oil and doing other things as well.
I did put a little grease on the pivot points of the arm.
I would not, however, say that it was "pleasantly easy" to replace, especially if the car has air conditioning, as one of the support braces passes almost directly over the pump. I unbolted one end of that brace and moved it out of the way. Even with that, the pump is down low on the engine, so it's hard to get a hand and a wrench down there, especially for the bottom bolt. Compressing the little spring clips to remove the rubber lines can be a bit of a bear, too, if they're not aligned well to get a pair of pliers over.
I found it easier to get at the bottom bolt from underneath the car, and that's much easier to do if the front end is raised. In my case, I had the front end raised, anyway, because I was changing the oil and doing other things as well.
#4
It's pleasant compared to one that uses a pushrod or is installed in the gas tank. I already had the cooling system empty, so I just took a couple of hoses off and it was easier to reach. Thanks for the info, guys.
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