jpc647

Well I ended up deciding to try to use the 2 row aluminum radiator, and I found out that even these 2 row replacements are bigger than the factory 2 row.

So it wont fit in the saddles of the top plate.

I could probably remove the rubber inserts and use smaller ones. But I would have to do it top and bottom. Anyone else see something I'm missing?


Anyone else tried to use to 2 row replacement? If I'm going to have to modify the top plate and saddles, I might as well try and find myself one of the 4 row copper/brass units. At least it'll be durable!

20170125_162624_zpsozq3fl4m.jpg

MDchanic

The aluminum 2-row is sold as a replacement for the copper/brass 4-row, so, yes, it has the same dimensions as the 4-row.

- Eric

70sgeek

here's an alternative - I have this in my '72 Cutlass and it drops right in

http://www.autocityclassic.com/cheve...inum-radiator/

Stamped and welded construction sets this apart from the rest. Radiator has transmission cooler. 1 1/2" inlet, 1 1/2" outlet. Original style ribbed tank.

This radiator is a direct replacement. It has dual 1 1/8" high flow tubes, 33% more capacity then 3-row 1/2".

Core size: 28 1/4" wide, 18 3/4" tall, 2 1/2" thick
Overall size (widest point): 33 1/2" wide, 18 3/4" tall, 3" thick

jpc647

Why would anyone want a 2 row aluminum with plastic tanks over the 4 row soldered?

MDchanic

Because they provide the same cooling capacity, but the aluminum one is cheaper and lighter.

- Eric

jpc647

I suppose. The plastic tanks just worry me. :/

MDchanic

They're what's on every car made in the past 20 years, and seem to work on those.

Ask Eric (OldCutlass). He's been running one with his BB for the past few years.

- Eric

jpc647

I did talk to him.I thought the aluminum 2 row was a drop in radiator for a copper 2 row. His experience is why I chose to try it. I didn't realize the 2 row wasn't going to fit. If I'm going to have to modify everything, I just feel like it's probably worth having the copper and brass unit.

Anyone in the market for a new Spectra CU165 radiator!?

olds 307 and 403

I am with you on the plastic side tanks. They hold up for years but I had one split out of the blue. Radiators for our old junk is far from simple, either plastic/aluminum or all aluminum that tend to leak or are warped or don't fit right. I hope my recored 2 core is enough for the 350 in hot weather.

jpc647

I'm going to talk to my local radiator shop again, but I literally need new side tanks and a new core, so they'd be custom building me a radiator. I think that's going to get pricey. :/

oldcutlass

Is it that the saddles are in the wrong place or they just need to be opened a bit?

MDchanic

IN the picture, it looks like it needs to be opened up:



- Eric

jpc647

I could probably just open them up, but I don't want to have it crack and break off if I try to slowly pry it open.

tru-blue 442

JPC. I also have a 2 row copper unit, PM me if interested, $50 + the ride.
I'm with you on the plastic tanks, they suck.. I have 2 behind the shop, both
have cracked tanks.

Fun71

It won't. Back in the 80s I bent mine open (well, it was mostly hammering) for a 4 row radiator I had borrowed from my brother in law's 68 GTO, then closed them back when I had my original 3 row end tanks fitted with a 4 row core.

MDchanic

It's really no big deal, and it's invisible.

Another alternative is to use a razor knife and cut a channel into the rubber, which will reduce the amount of bending needed.

- Eric

jpc647

Roughly what did that cost to have done?


I did a little bit of both. I'm going to use different rubber feet if I use the Aluminum radiator. Although one of the holes in the passenger side foot(where the rubber snaps into) was a bit rotted and broke off(no problem, I can epoxy the rubber back in place to hold it), but hammering and bending it out might not have been the best idea.

I have to swap it out again, because it leaks at the head under the cap. These friggen plastic tanks really are junk, aren't they!?

Fun71

It's been a few years so I don't remember the exact amount but it was under $250.


I never had any issues with the replacement plastic/aluminum radiators on my newer cars. And the original one on my Jeep survived 14 years of brutal Arizona 110+ summer heat and serious off-road use before it started leaking.

jpc647

Whoa. My local guy quoted me $429 to re-core it out to a 3 row radiator, re solder the outlets, etc. I just can't. I'll warranty the plastic one and give it a final go. Luckily it's winter time, and the car is just sitting anyway...

oldcutlass

If you are really that unhappy with it, just send it back.

MDchanic

The one in my old Jeep Grand Cherokee lasted 250,000 miles before the seam started to leak.

What's the longest you've heard of a brass radiator going?

​​​​​​​- Eric

jpc647

But what would I get? The copper one is 1/2 thinner. so the rows are very narrow(part number spectra cu351). so it's either this, or one of the custom jobs like champion. At least these have a lifetime warranty through the parts store(which it seems like I'll be needing).



Interesting. The spectra one's aren't built too well though. I'll take some photo's tomorrow for reference.

oldcutlass

Is it leaking at the overflow due to a bad cap or because it was overfilled and puking when hot? Is there a deformity in the seating area causing the cap not to seat?

olds 307 and 403

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380457#
If mine doesn't measure up, this will get the nod, very good reviews, one after a couple of years being used. I considered Griffin but there are too many that leak. In the defence of the plastic tanks, mine was 20 years old and had 350,000 km. They just look like *** in classic cars.

jpc647

Good suggestions. But it's actually that there is a small crack on the top of the tank.



Interesting. It's a bit expensive(I was really hoping to stay at or under $225ish, but I do like that it has a nipple for a water temperature sender and the good reviews. I may have to make my own craddles for it too, like the other reviewer did. Which honestly, at this point, wouldn't be the worst thing ever. Mine are a little rotted, and though I cleaned them up and the paint in drying, the next time around, should this radiator fail or leak, I'll replace the saddles too. I'll just break down and buy the repro ones(or make my own).