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So I got the reman carb in the mail. It appears to be almost exact. I bolted it on and checked the fuel filter. There was one in there that appeared new. I ordered an extra in case. The carburetor "instructions" were very genereic and didn't give me any real information on adjustments.
I cranked her over for about 30 seconds and it fired right up. It seemed to idle at a normal speed but sounded a little fast getting a little faster.
I could really tell if it had the alleged "rod knock" that my friends dad said he heard. Smoke seemed to. E rising up from lower than the exhaust manifold. Maybe an exhaust manifold leak but it doesn't look like it to me.
It it almost looks like it is coming from the head gasket mating area. Is this normal with engines that sit a long time? Is this because I squirted oil in the cylinders, maybe too much? Should I let it keep running for a longer period of time.
It sounded a little loud to me but I don't think it was knocking. I didn't rev it up because of the smoke. Also I plugged all the vacuum ports that weren't used, but the manifold attachment for the choke was broken off so I left it on the old carb. I can't find a replacement anywhere online and am not sure what it is called. (sorry not sure if I'm talking about the right thing. I'm new to carbs)
not sure if this will cause a vaccume leak
I call that stove pipe. I don't have a part number handy but it can be purchased. Maybe even the place you got the carb from has these parts. Yes, there will be a small vacum leak until you fix this. You could install an electric choke..if you wanted to.
I googled "quadrajet stove pipe" and this picture was one of the first, I believe its for a 403 but what could be the difference for a 350. Sorry I don't have a part #.
Last edited by don71; January 21st, 2017 at 06:58 PM.
Reason: pipe
I see part numbers 403930, 406048, 406050 or 406053, and 412620 listed, but the set that Don posted looks pretty good.
As Don stated, your best bet at this point is to go electric, as gathering all of those silly vacuum tubes and getting them assembled so that they work properly is way more trouble than it's worth.
Meanwhile, just adjust your choke so that it's open all the time.
Does anyone know of a good conversion kit? And how do they work? Thanks for all the help so far.
the car is far from moving around. The brakes need to all be redone, the transmission has no reverse gear and I had to take the bumpers and doors off to fit it in the garage. Those doors are too damn long to open lol
Well I ran her for about 5 to 10 minutes to let it get hot. I revel her up a little and she was knocking like crazy. Looks like I'm in for a rebuild. Thanks a lot for the help guys.
Last edited by Innosentz; January 22nd, 2017 at 07:06 AM.
So I let it run for about 20 minutes. I reverted it up about 1/4 throttle. (No rpm gauge) the knock would quiet down a bit but get really loud when I would take my foot off the gas. I didn't hear it coming from the top end with a stethoscope. I put my head under the car by the tranny area and it sounded really loud.
I did did not have the car in the air so could not listen to the bottom end. The transmission fluid would not come up on the dipstick and was also leaking. I'm going to grab some fluid from work and see if the noise changes.
Also so when I shut it off hot and restarted it it would not idle properly and would come close to stalling. I'm guessing my hot idle screw needs to be adjusted.
I bent a rod in my 76 cutlass 350 several years ago by pouring oil down the carb until it stalled out. I was told back then to do it when I parked it for the winter.
I would be surprised if you have a rod knock unless something similar happened , oil or fluid into the piston bores.
I would take Eric's advice and check the flexplate, the shop that refreshed my 350 said he had never seen a 72-77 Olds 350 rod bent that bad in two places LOL.
My knock was opposite yours really loud when acceleration, not as loud idling.
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; January 22nd, 2017 at 12:21 PM.
Just because the carb looks almost identical doesn't mean it has the proper jetting for your application, but I think you're a long ways from worrying about that. There is no vacuum involved with the tube going from the heat box on the manifold to the choke. It just transfers heat to operate the bimetallic spring that opens and closes the choke.
Install an oil pressure gauge and run the engine for 1/2 hr or so. If the oil pressure drops to less than 10 to 15 psi that could indicate worn main and/or conecting rod bearings. If oil pressure stays up then the knock is probably caused by something else.
I jacked up the car and checked the flex plate. It appeared crack free and all the converter bolts were tight.
Im just going to pull the engine for a rebuild. There are a lot of things I want to do to it performance wise so I'm just going to tear it down and check it all unless someone advises me otherwise lol. Thank you guys for all the help.
The transmission fluid was/is low due to a leak I just discovered lol. But I don't think that would creat a loud knocking. I did here it coming from the back of the engine compartment though. I do have another transmission that came with the car. But I'm probably going to buy a performance th350
I jacked up the car and checked the flex plate. It appeared crack free and all the converter bolts were tight.
I think Eric ( Mdchanic) mentioned its very hard to see a crack in it, maybe you should have someone revving it while you have a looksie .
Im just going to pull the engine for a rebuild. There are a lot of things I want to do to it performance wise so I'm just going to tear it down and check it all unless someone advises me otherwise lol. Thank you guys for all the help.
If you have the money than I'd say go for it, but its a must to post pics of the teardown here. Put-r-ther that's my rules haha.
The transmission fluid was/is low due to a leak I just discovered lol. But I don't think that would creat a loud knocking. I did here it coming from the back of the engine compartment though. I do have another transmission that came with the car. But I'm probably going to buy a performance th350
As I mentioned my knock was louder at higher RPM's with a bent rod, you say your knock is more noticeable off the throttle. Hmmm maybe check your flex plate as stated above.
The cracks can be hard to see, but I suspect even harder while moving (though you may be able to freeze it with a timing light).
Once the engine is out, and you remove the flexplate (you can do this with the engine in place, by pulling all of the bellhousing bolts, removing the rear transmission bolt and/or crossmember bolts, and sliding the transmission an inch or so backward).
Since some of these steps are necessary prior to pulling the engine, you could potentially pull the flexplate first, if you enjoy a challenge, and take a gamble that maybe you can leave the engine in place.
Idk if this matters or not but today I was messing around with it running and the stethoscope. It was loudest in the center of the oil pan about half way up. It got quieter at the pan to block mounting bolts. Perhaps a clogged oil pick up?
I think he has fuel and timing problems. The timing is probably off due to a stretched timing chain. I'd line up the timing marks on #1 compression then, Roll the motor back a touch to about 12° BTDC
Pull the #1 wire off the plug, stick a screwdriver in it so it's close to metal (not touching)
Loosen the dist. hold down
Turn the distributor too far counterclockwise
Turn on the key,
Rotate the distributor clockwise until a spark is seen at the #1 wire
Tighten hold down
Replace #1 wire
This will be the best approximation you can get to proper timing without the engine running.
January 21st, 2017, 05:55 PM
