VinMichael

So I picked up a completely stock 73 engine with #8 heads for next to nothing. Said to run fine when pulled. Turns over nicely.

I have some random parts that I have laying around to try to build something without a lot of effort and on the cheap.

What I have that I was planning on using for the build:

#5 heads with small valves stock valve job and no porting.The local machinist said he has a knurler with the right pattern to tighten up the guides. I will be buying new valves since the margins a practically gone but the seats are decent. From what I've read these should cc around 68. Any easy effective touches to the heads I should include to yield gains?

Comp Cams 3/8" rocker studs and guideplates. No rockers. Any suggestions for which type of rockers?

Edelbrock RPM intake

Edelbrock 1405 carb

For the cam cutlassefi recommend a flat tappet 220@.050. Valve springs will match the cam.

GM HEI distributor from a 307 that has a ton of initial timing for some reason. About 26 degrees at idle and all in at 34 degrees by 2800 rpm with vacuum advance plugged. Any suggestions for a recurve kit?

Short block - I have not opened this engine up but I am expecting 14cc pistons. I pulled a valve cover off and there is some sludge. Should I get the block boiled with new cam bearings, etc? Should I bother re-ringing/honing? Should I concern myself with polishing the crank for new bearings? I don't want to get too deep into machine work if I don't have to. And these stock short blocks have been super solid from my experience. So if it isn't broken I don't want to fix it.

Car has Hooker headers with 2.25 dual exhaust with flowmasters

I'm looking for around 300 hp and 14s in the quarter mile. I have to check what gears I have but I am guessing 3.23 to 3.73.

Trans is TH350 with an advertised 1,800 - 2,200 stall. Summit in house brand. Trans is duel fed and has the 2-3 accumulator blocked 5 clutches in the direct drum. All check *****. I recently rebuilt it and shifts good.

The current engine is a stock 74 350 with #8 heads and "RV cam" . Will I see much of an improvement by building this new 350 to be worth the effort?

Fun71

As for the distributor, I like mine with a lot of initial as it gives a smoother idle, higher vacuum, and more off-idle throttle response. If you really want to lower the initial, the Moroso HEI curve kit has center bar and weights that give 24* mechanical advance so you can set the initial in the 10* range. I had one in my HEI for many years but pulled it out and put the factory parts back in and I like it better that way.

67 Cutlass Freak

The #5 heads would definitely help with performance gains, but you should build them up right. Knurling is not a good idea. The factory iron guides are knurled to aid with lubrication, but to re-knurl to tighten up valve to guide clearance is a very temporary band aid. You said you were going to buy new valves anyway, chances are the stems will not be same as stock diameter. Have your machinist install and size new guides for your new valves. You can get oversized valves for the same money. Spring for a good valve job with a bowl cut as well. You should measure the combustion chamber. It will probably be closer to 70 CCs. Figure out what pistons you have and mill the heads to get somewhere between 9-9.5:1 compression. You might also want to get valves that are .100" taller than stock that will open up your options for valve springs. If your rocker studs are already drilled out for 3/8" than you will be running aftermarket rockers. I like the Harlan Sharps but they are a little pricey. Try to find a used set of rollers. Scorpions, and Comps are also OK. You may want to do a compression test on the engine before you tear the heads off. That might give you a good indication of the short block's condition. If you want to learn all about Olds heads, check out this thread - https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...echniques.html
Copper Cutlass had a thread about a budget built SB -
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...e-gave-me.html
You may also want to research some other SB builds here -
http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/fo...e4744ec9b5c1e2
Good luck with your project, Dave - The Freak

coppercutlass

I have done all kinds of cheap builds. And had a similar build like what you are doing but it was all freshened up , stock 7A heads , stock 73 350 , comp 260h cam. Stock valve train rocker arms etc, hei edelbrock performer intake and appx 9 to 1 compression. I put my car n the 13's with a 3.73 gear and th400 with a 2200 stall. At the time it weighed about 3600 lbs. I had 2200 in the whole engine carb to oil pan.

olds 307 and 403

I would throw that carb in the bush and get a QJet or Street Demon instead. I would mill the heads to 64cc and run .028" head gaskets if no decking of the block or over boring is done, should put you right at 9 to 1. I would go 2.07"/1.625" valves with a bowl hog to open them up. Price out the difference, probably not much. Olds like timing on the street.

coppercutlass

I ran the 1405 edelbrock with great results. Ran it on a small block that ran 13.3's He did say budget and he can achieve his goals with out the big valves assuming what he is working with can be workable if the valves are junk then yes upgrade. If you do go adjustable valve train i have been running the PRW ford 1.6 roller rockers with no issues using the 5/16 3/8th studs everyone say's wont hold up.

olds 307 and 403

He said he needed new valves and unless that carb has been used and functioned fine, it is a crap shoot.

coppercutlass

Said they need a valve Job and knurled. Had the same deal done on mine. Still holding up great 9 years later.

olds 307 and 403

He also said the margins were gone, buying new valves. Always have been told knurling doesn't last but who knows. Nearly any of the recurve kits with weights give point ignition curves, like 12 base. You could try different springs with an adjustable vacuum advance kit, Accel and Crane both offer that kit.

coppercutlass

Indeed he did. I missed that lol. Was reading it on my phone. So far the knurling had lasted on mine but I think core shape matters. Milage how worn out etc etc. On the other hand I'm sure he could find some valves that can be ground. Not everything has to be new just has to be in useable shape. Considering no one wants the small valves he could have em for close to nothing.

VinMichael

Thank you all for the feedback
I agree it runs great with a lot of initial. It runs nice and cool as well. It cranks a little slow sometimes, and I'm not sure yet if it is because of the timing advance or not. I will leave it as is for now.

Thank you Dave. I called a machinist. He said he could order taller SS big block valves for a better valve spring, install new iron guides, install positive seals, hog out the bowls, and do a 3 angle valve job for under $900. Including parts. This is the route I am more inclined to take.

Unfortunately the heads are not drilled 3/8" for the rocker stud. They are 5/16". I have the Comp adjustable conversion studs 3/8" - 5/16".

I've yet to decide on rocker arms...

I put the engine on a stand, and I am going to clean it up and try to run it before taking it apart.

That is impressive. I would be stoked to get into the 13s.

I got my car when I was still in highschool it had a points ignition, externally regulated alternator. No timing marks that I would see since 64 has a weird water pump so it was timed by ear, and the same Edel1405 carb. Engine was a 350 with said #5 heads and same duel exhaust but with manifolds and a crappy Jetaway and stock converter. Car always ran hot with a stupid flex fan, and pinged. I ran a 16 flat.

The first few years I was driving it around I thought I had a 330 since it was a 64 lol.


My plan is to experiment with a quadrajet. Going to get a book and build one up since I've heard good things about them. The 350 I have in the car now is 60 over, so perhaps I could go with the the existing short block for more compression.

I'm going to look into the PRWs.


Might be getting a kit if I can't get away with the timing curve I have now.

coppercutlass

Get a good fan set up or go electric . Im running 9c1 caprice fans my car will only hit 210 at lights on really hot days.

i got my cutlass when i graduated high school almost 10 years ago. I didnt feel like band aiding a bunch of stuff so i just tore it all apart and spent almost 2 years restoring it. And the last 8 years beating the crap out of it. Currently repainting it so that it looks as good as when i first got it done. The years of abuse have not been kind to the ol girl.

olds 307 and 403

You have a good plan, do you know what pistons are in your .060 over 350? If they are cast, take pics and measurements of the dish and far in the hole they sit. Electric fans are nice, just finding a controller that decent for under $60 is impossible. I bought the adjustable Flealite controller. I had issues with push in probe, moved it a bit, it now works fine. It has a replaceable relay board and a manual override feature. I am picking up an extra board and wiring a toggle switch in my 70 S. I am running Dodge Stratus fans, they fit the G body better but move a lot of air. The only aftermarket fans worth buying are the US made Derale fans, move a lot of air. Their cheap controllers are total junk, don't buy them.

VinMichael

I switched to an OEM fan with a clutch from a late 70s Buick Riviera. The fan is huge a seems to cool the radiator much better.

Two years is a great turn time to restore a car. I cut 80% of the floor pan out and welded in another solid floor pan that I cut out of a 65 Buick Skylark. I cut the trunk pan out, and deck filler panel and replaced with reproduction pieces. Horrible, nasty work that is.

Hopefully my car will be in the body shop this year. Maybe even painted. Ive been working on it for 6.5 years. But I spent the first 2 years driving it around and didnt do anything to it.


The pistons are cast, and appear to be around 14cc. Definitely not dog dishes like some 350 pistons. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing how far they sit in the hole without taking the heads off. I wish I would have checked while I had the heads off a couple of years ago.


Thanks for the advice. The car will very likely be converted to electric fans. The ultimate goal is to convert the car to multiport EFI. I have an Accel Thruster setup. I need to see if it has a controller built-in for electric fans or I will likely go with an aftermarket controller as you mentioned.

olds 307 and 403

You can get 9 to 1 with .028" head gaskets from Rocket Racing, if the heads measure 64cc after milling. Factory pistons sit somewhere around .025" in the hole, give or take. That is what I am doing.