Yanking my 260 to make room for 350

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Old November 13th, 2016, 01:15 PM
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Yanking my 260 to make room for 350

So I'm getting ready to pull the little 260 from my 77 cutlass. I have actually been curious to see what it would do if I tuned it all up nice and installed my 350 dual exhaust and 3.23 gears...but whatever.
I have never pulled or replaced an engine before so this should be exciting/interesting with a lot of " frustrating " mixed in. Do you guys think I should try to pull the trans out with it or should I take the trans off first? Do I need to take the radiator or the master brake cylinder off to make the job easier?
Also,

If anybody is interested in any of these parts, let me know.
260 olds in my 77 cutlass. Nearing the end of its servitude to the human race.
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Old November 13th, 2016, 01:48 PM
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Radiator yes, master cylinder, no. I have a mildly modified 260 in my 70 S, decent but lighter than your 77. Dual exhaust, more air in the carb and a ton of timing go a long way from a stock 260. At least they should have got the optional 5 SPD manual, acceleration must be turtle speed.

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Old November 13th, 2016, 02:38 PM
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Yeah, it probably would be more fun with a manual.
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Old November 13th, 2016, 03:29 PM
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I wouldn't waist your time with the 260, I agree with olds 307 and 403, the master can stay in but the rad will have to come out. I would just pull the engine without the trans if I were to do it myself.
Ther are so many guys here to guide you and help you along the way. You 77 will move along much better with the 350, headers with 2 1/4 pipes, 3:42 gears. The 3:23 will be ok as well. Go with a good shift kit in the trans.
I'm looking forward to following along and with your project.
Cheers
Eric
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Old November 13th, 2016, 03:59 PM
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Leave the MC alone, yes pull the radiator and also the hood. Pulling the trans with the engine is personal preference. It is a lot easier to assemble the two out of the car. Its a very easy swap, enjoy.
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Old November 13th, 2016, 04:05 PM
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+1 to all.

Radiator and hood have to go.

Condenser usually not.

M/C and transmission should be able to stay.

Just be sure to paint the motor that awful Corporate Blue and install several yards of blocked-off vacuum tubing over the top of the engine when you're done, to keep it on the down-low.

- Eric
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Old November 13th, 2016, 04:38 PM
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With an engine swap planned for my 350, please document as much as you can. Good luck, take your time.
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Old November 15th, 2016, 07:45 AM
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Easy swap, I pulled the 350 from the 76 I had. I think I may have just propped up the hood a bit but removing it makes the most sense and IS a two person job. The hardest part will probably be undoing the manifolds from the exhaust, probably seized bolts.
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Old November 15th, 2016, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
+1 to all.

Radiator and hood have to go.

Condenser usually not.

M/C and transmission should be able to stay.

Just be sure to paint the motor that awful Corporate Blue and install several yards of blocked-off vacuum tubing over the top of the engine when you're done, to keep it on the down-low.

- Eric
Totally agreed. Since the engine is out, here's your chance to clean up the engine bay and paint it. If you like, you can change the stock torque converter to a higher stall.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
Easy swap, I pulled the 350 from the 76 I had. I think I may have just propped up the hood a bit but removing it makes the most sense and IS a two person job. The hardest part will probably be undoing the manifolds from the exhaust, probably seized bolts.
I unhooked the exhaust that goes to the rear of the car. It was a pain but I got it finally. Do I need to unhook the part that goes under the engine?
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Old November 17th, 2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pherbicide
With an engine swap planned for my 350, please document as much as you can. Good luck, take your time.
Seems pretty easy so far. Just one bolt at a time. The hardest part for me will be pulling the engine because I need to find somebody to help and I don't think my girlfriend is up for the job.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 06:44 PM
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No, I believe the 260 has a unique smaller cross over pipe, regular one is bad enough. I think Olds had an idea, probably maximizing torque but nothing helps the 260 enough to be impressive. I would do at least dual exhaust anyways which requires a block off and the cross over eliminated.
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Old November 17th, 2016, 07:17 PM
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The 260 also had different exhaust manifolds - the output to the engine pipe had 3 studs and an exhaust gasket, instead of 2 and a flange connection.

- Eric
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Old November 18th, 2016, 05:38 AM
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That 3 stud flange manifold is just the later manifold, came on catalytic converter cars. I had those on multiple 307's, some with the heat riser and O2 sensor. The O2 sensor ones were rare as most cars here were non CCC pre 86 and mostly 307's in big cars. Although who would thought Olds would have bothered with a smaller diameter, stainless cross over pipe for the mighty 260?
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Old November 18th, 2016, 06:37 AM
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The mighty 260...love it!


I will reiterate what others have said. The master cylinder can stay, the radiator can stay. Just be careful and work slowly. Label everything you take out. Take lots of pics for reference. Clean up as much as you can while the engine is out. Have fun!


Good luck with the transplant!
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Old November 18th, 2016, 07:36 AM
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question...the pic shows a v8 with a 4bbl unless my eyes are playing tricks on you...

didnt the 260 only come with a 2bbl? if so, what is going on in there?

anyways, I only like to pull fwd powertrains up the top end as one...otherwise I do the separation in the car. The thm350 or whatever tranny has very very few bolts to make the separation. the majority of the work is STILL the exhaust connections which almost always need cut, and all the crap hanging off the bracketry., fans, belts, radiators etc - best to get them out of the way and safe. in all instances, the hood should come off.

The key of course being, I have a lift and the right machinery to git em out...ymmv.
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Old November 18th, 2016, 07:50 AM
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So if you pull the engine and not the trans. (Which is how I would do it if not replacing the trans)Everyone likes it different. Anyway make sure the torque converter is all the way into the front pump of the trans when you mate them two together. If you don't it will destroy the front pump. This is easy to do just make sure it is seated all the way. If it is pulled out of the trans when you put it back it takes two stages to get it to seat. Turning it either way till it clicks in twice.

you will be very pleased with the difference between a 350 and 260 a huge improvement.

Just take your time and clean things up as you go and take the time to detail parts so it looks nice. Makes life much easier later on.

Just my two cents

Larry
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Old November 18th, 2016, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by quaddriver
question...the pic shows a v8 with a 4bbl unless my eyes are playing tricks on you...
That looks like the early-style DualJet, which looked externally like a QuadraJet, but the back half was just an empty shell.

The late style chopped the back half off completely.

- Eric
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Old November 18th, 2016, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
That looks like the early-style DualJet, which looked externally like a QuadraJet, but the back half was just an empty shell.

The late style chopped the back half off completely.

- Eric
sounds reasonable. old eyes. never saw a dual in that style before...was I lucky or unlucky? ;-)
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Old November 18th, 2016, 10:55 AM
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A little more info to clear things up. I was asking if I could remove the trans with the engine because I want to replace both of them. My replacement 350 is already bolted to a good th350 trans.
Also, since my replacements are already bolted together, would it work to put them back in the car that way or would it be easier to separate them?
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Old November 18th, 2016, 05:19 PM
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Here are a couple pics of the carb. It's a dualjet 165. Looks like it has an adapter under it to hook up to the 2 barrel intake.


Dualjet 165 on 1977 olds 260.

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Old November 18th, 2016, 08:29 PM
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There is no adapter. It is a quadrajet body with blocked off secondaries. The manifold will only accept that style of dualjet due to the bolt pattern being the same as a quadrajet.
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Old November 19th, 2016, 04:21 AM
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What year did GM switch to the normal Dualjet on the 260? Mine has the normal one.
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Old November 19th, 2016, 06:20 AM
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around 1978 (I went and checked). even working in a dealership I somehow managed to never see a 2mc in that format. iirc my dads apollo was a 2gc (1974) and so was my grandparents 75 imp (350)

from looking at gasket kits, it honestly and actually had a big geraldo rivera space under that fake-*** butterfly...bizarre
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Old November 19th, 2016, 12:21 PM
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My first car was a 75 Cutlass with a 260 and at first (being 17 and not knowing anything) I thought it had a 4 barrel on it. That was until I looked closer an noticed that the "secondaries" were cast as part of the top plate and weren't what I thought they were...lol.
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Old November 19th, 2016, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by svnt442
My first car was a 75 Cutlass with a 260 and at first (being 17 and not knowing anything) I thought it had a 4 barrel on it. That was until I looked closer an noticed that the "secondaries" were cast as part of the top plate and weren't what I thought they were...lol.
X2, same here.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 09:35 AM
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Out of curiosity, I decided to take the valve cover off the 260 just to see what things looked like under there....


Holes rusted through in 260 head????


There is two big holes in there!!! They aren't supposed to be there are they?

Also, look at the size of those oil return holes! They're less than half the size of the holes on the #8 heads that I have laying on my garage floor.


Super small oil return holes on 260 olds heads.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 11:18 AM
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I'm trying to get the driveshaft off.... I got everything unbolted but i can't get it to slip down.





Is there a trick to this? I tried it both level and with the rear jacked up.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 11:22 AM
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Penetrating oil and a bigger sledgehammer.

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Old November 25th, 2016, 11:28 AM
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Use a pry bar to push the drive shaft forward.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
Use a pry bar to push the drive shaft forward.
X2, put the pry bar in between the yoke and the u-joint.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 01:06 PM
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OK. I finally found a "pry tool" big enough to pop that thing out.
Now that the driveshaft is off I think I might just disconnect the trans from the engine....or not...we will see I guess.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 03:59 PM
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I have installed them separate and together. Since the trans is good, install together. Just set up your lift chain on a fairly steep angle for the trans to tuck in above the cross member.
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Old December 7th, 2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
That looks like the early-style DualJet, which looked externally like a QuadraJet, but the back half was just an empty shell.

The late style chopped the back half off completely.

- Eric
My Stepdad's 1976 Pontiac Ventura had the Olds 260 with that "Dualjet" carburetor on it. Installed an Olds 350 with a Quadrajet in there years ago and I even reused the "2 BBL" air cleaner. Looks exactly like the 260 did under the hood. The 260 still ran good when I pulled it out, it was just gutless (like any other V8 of that size back then). Didn't even really notice a significant drop in gas mileage when the 350 went in there. (of coarse had a ton more power). Moved the car a lot easier when combined with the 2.41 rear end.
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Old December 7th, 2016, 11:33 AM
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is the current trans def a 350? Were they using 200's yet?
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Old December 10th, 2016, 02:20 PM
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I am assuming it's a th200. I'm planning on removing it and scrapping it.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 06:17 PM
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I found the build sheet when I removed the gas tank today. Looks like it had the "m38" trans option. That's the code for the th350, right? 1977 cutlass build sheet.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey_mick
I found the build sheet when I removed the gas tank today. Looks like it had the "m38" trans option. That's the code for the th350, right? 1977 cutlass build sheet.
That is indeed the TH350.
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 07:21 PM
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I too am in the middle of putting a 9 to 1 Olds 350 in my 70S with a custom cam, dual snorkel air cleaner with a 2300 stall 2004R trans. My 260 I put in my 88 CSC to keep it mobile. I kept the 1 5/8" Sanderson headers and 2.5" X pipe dual exhaust for now, the 70 TH350 shifts like it has kit in it, TCI Fastgate ratchet shifter, 3.42 open gears and ram air with an open top on a modified Dualjet base. It actually isn't horrible with exhaust and gearing but the 350 will be much faster and get similar mileage or better with the overdrive in the 70S.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
I too am in the middle of putting a 9 to 1 Olds 350 in my 70S with a custom cam, dual snorkel air cleaner with a 2300 stall 2004R trans. My 260 I put in my 88 CSC to keep it mobile. I kept the 1 5/8" Sanderson headers and 2.5" X pipe dual exhaust for now, the 70 TH350 shifts like it has kit in it, TCI Fastgate ratchet shifter, 3.42 open gears and ram air with an open top on a modified Dualjet base. It actually isn't horrible with exhaust and gearing but the 350 will be much faster and get similar mileage or better with the overdrive in the 70S.
I would like to get a 200-4r trans also but I suppose I will wait till my th350 gives up. I think a few of the cars in the local scrap yard have the 200-4r in them.
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