young olds

Im very indecisive on what tranny to put in my 62 cutlass. My original intent was a street strip car so i bought a t56 and 4.30 gears. Now its back halved and i dont see it being on the freeway but would still like to drive it around town when possible. Im leaning towards a th350 since i have one, a manual vb and a ratchet shifter already, but still prefer a manual. thinking maybe a doug nash 4+1 or something along those lines. i know the th350 is going to be the easiest and cheapest but i like stirring a manual up. Any thoughts are welcome.

cutlassefi

Ever think about a 200-4R? Pretty easy bolt in and has the overdrive and lockup converter.

Jmo.

garys 68&72

Yeah with 4.30 gears, you wont be doing much hiway running.
I'm guessing big motor, sticky tires too?
The T56 can be used for drag racing but isn't exactly a favorite. There are some faceplated ones over at LS1tech if you want input there. Also the 0.5 6th would actually be useful with your 4.3 rear.
The Richmond has a 3.28 first, might be a bit much with a 4.30 rear.
If you don't care about OD, you'll be on the track mostly, a th400 will be a lot easier to build for racing.
Again if OD doesn't matter and you want a manual, you can get an upgraded 4 speed from Autogear that will survive track abuse. They offer a lot of strength upgrades and selection of ratios.
There are also high dollar dedicated racing transmissions, but are not too street friendly.

young olds

since i dont see myself driving on the freeway I dont need an over drive, only reason im not using the t56 anymore. its going to have rear tires, havent decided yet, 30"-32". i wouldnt go through the hassle of building a 200r4 when i have a 4l80e, but again if i wanted overdrive id stay with the t56. would like to stay manual thats why i was thinking something like a doug nash, its a drag car first but would like it to be streetable. I know a th350 will hang in for a while cause that is what my dad runs in his nova with a 502. thanks for the suggestions.

garys 68&72

Just a heads up on the Doug Nash/Richmond 5 speed. Richmond has discontinued production for now, maybe permanently.
Just curious, how user friendly would the 3.28 Richmond 1st gear compare to a 4 speed 2.6 1st with the 4.3 rear and 30" tires?

young olds

I know the first would wrap out fast, and I'd look for an older actual Nash tranny. I'd go 4 speed but it'd have to be a gforce or something.

coppercutlass

what about a 4l80e . you would need an adapter but its essentially a th400 with over drive. (edit) saw you mentioned you had a 4l80e already. You mentioned your dad has a th350 behind a 502 . Must be built up pretty nice the th350 can take abuse but it has its weak links but its probably cheaper than many other alternatives plus it has a deep first gear and less rotating mass.

young olds

IM kinda saving the 4l80e for a future build But will use it if I deem better suited for this car. I think a non overdrive will serve better in the car in question

garys 68&72

Are you thinking a hardcore 4 speed, dog box, strait cut gears, split sliders, etc?

young olds

Something really tuff but still street able

coppercutlass

Streetable is what you make of it. I've seen guys with lencos on the street

Run to Rund

Jerico DR4 with road race sliders.

young olds

I understand that, would prefer to be able to downshift and engine brake. Doesn't sound fun to have to come to a complete stop to get back into first. And I'll look into the dr4

young olds

The dr4 sounds about perfect. Are there any other comparable transmissions? Jericos website says the dr4 is discontinued

Run to Rund

Jerico's new model is even stronger; iirc it is DR4-4. The key to easy downshifting and staying in gear is the road race sliders instead of the drag sliders. They also offer gears heat treated for drags or for road racing. Since you are in fourth most of the time on the street if you have steep rear gears, the drag gears give more strength. It is what I chose.


G-Force in PA also makes strong trannies. The G is based on the Muncie style, and the Jerico on the Ford top loader style. Neither is cheap, but you only have to buy it once, instead of replacing broken T-10s etc.

Run to Rund

BTW you can often find used--I saw a used Jerico on class racer the other day that had just been redone. Another advantage is that you can get a strong first gear that is steep, such as 3.08, to help compensate for milder rear gears.

Bernhard

$4 speeds are very cool but it is not just the buy in cost wit the manual trans.
Its maintenance and clutch set up street to strip adjustment.
For a cheep bullet proof trans Turbo 400 but with 4.33 gear on the street?
This is always a hard call for those that like dual purpose cars.
Good luck with the build.

young olds

Does the dr4 bolt with a Muncie pattern? What type of clutch do you use?

Bernhard

This is the go to forum for manual transmission racing.
My car is not yet set up for racing with a stick.

http://www.umtrnorth.com/forums/login.asp

Run to Rund

The Jerico has multiple bellhousing and trans mount patterns, including the stock GM. I am running a modestly priced clutch from South Bend Clutch and it has survived many drag race starts.

young olds

So if I ordered one I could get a Muncie pattern for the bell and tranny mount? Do you run an adjustable clutch? Idk what that means but I see it while researching the dr4

Run to Rund

The trans will come with all the patterns on it. Adjustable clutches are generally based on a Long pressure plate with spring seats that are adjustable for height and thus tension. The idea is to get just enough slip that nothing breaks on power shifts or bogs/breaks on take-off. Today's strips are coated with traction compound so the slicks either dead hook or tend to wheel hop. Mine is a Borg & Beck, from South Bend, about 1300 lb. not adjustable, with the sintered iron disc. I have gotten 1.52 sec. 60' time with it, similar to Sam Murray's D/stocker with the $3000 adjustable clutch, so I know it works pretty well.

Run to Rund

BTW you can get early Muncie length, or 3" longer than that, which results in a shorter driveshaft that will have a higher critical speed.

young olds

What's critical speed? Is a shorter driveshaft better?

Bernhard

That is impressive how many runs do you have on the clutch and street miles?

bisscrac

th350 all the way

62 Cutlass Convert

I don't see anyone talking about the much maligned TH200 with lock up.
It can be built very strong by the right guy, they use them is a class of dragster and they are popular with street rods. They have a big advantage of being able to fit into the 62 Cutlass tunnel with a little pushing out rather than cutting out of the sheet metal. I'm putting one from REMAC in my 62 convert and have fitted it. But maybe you're already cut out in which case I do a built 200r4 with it's OD or a a nice 5 speed if you have the parts.

young olds

I already have a th350 and parts for it, no way I'd buy a th200 instead. This is a drag car first and street second. And again if I wanted overdrive I would still be putting in the t56. But thanks for the input. As far as the tunnel my entire floor is out of the car.

oldsmobiledave

T400 and a Gear Vendor would be my choice.

62 Cutlass Convert

Yeh I thought you had your options open but thought I'd chime in. Sounds like fun with an open slate.

young olds

Sorry if I came off harsh. Not my intent.

62 Cutlass Convert

Hey, no problem. Good luck with the project. Always good to hear about another F85.

young olds

thanks, yeah not many of us with them.

Run to Rund

The South Bend clutch has been in the car for several years, IDK how many runs (dozens, plus some street use). Critical speed is discussed here:
http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafttech.aspx

young olds

thanks for the link

Run to Rund

Comparison of Jerico to Muncie:

young olds

Is that the long tail you mentioned?