Hooker vs flowtech???
#1
Hooker vs flowtech???
I'm looking at these two headers for my 71 cutlass supreme. Both under $200
The choices are flowtech ceramic and hooker painted.
The hookers on summit say they don't fit the cutlass but I've been told that many people used them anyways and didn't have a problem with them.
Any advice between these 2?
Also, can I use 455 headers on the 350? Because it seems that the $200 headers are for the 455 but it's the internet...
The choices are flowtech ceramic and hooker painted.
The hookers on summit say they don't fit the cutlass but I've been told that many people used them anyways and didn't have a problem with them.
Any advice between these 2?
Also, can I use 455 headers on the 350? Because it seems that the $200 headers are for the 455 but it's the internet...
Last edited by 19cutlass71supreme; February 11th, 2014 at 04:57 PM.
#2
I put a set of flowtech headers on a 72 Cutlass conv with 455. They slid in easy and stock starter bolted up fine but driver's side 2 lower tubes were resting on the frame and some severe sledging was required for fit. Dont know about hookers for the 72 and I doubt 455 headers would work on the 350. Yes they will bolt up but the 455 is wider than the 350.
#3
I always liked hookers..........headers. I have them on my 70. They fit fine, PIA to install but no problems with frame or starter. However if you are planning on lowering the car they hang pretty low. My 70 is lowered and it's not speed bump friendly. If I was doing it again i would get shorties. 455 headers will be way too low.
#4
Don't get the flow tech's. they're not very good. The collectors always point in goofy directions. One will be angled down slightly, or sometimes left, sometimes right. Real pain in the **** trying to bolt straight exhaust to crooked headers.
#5
I put hooker headers on my 69 before I got rid of it, I had to move the brake junction block but other than that, no complaints. When It comes to headers you get what you pay for... If you can get a set of coated and a set of painted for the same cost, id go painted just because the headers must be of better quality.
#6
Go with the Hooker set. If nothing else the stickers are cool. Have the paint stripped off and repaint with Rustoleum Hi Temp primer and color of choice. Follow the directions to a T. The heating and cooling off periods are crucial to making it last and not burn off. Once its properly cured it will last a very long time.
#9
You can also get the Hookers in the 1 7/8" primary tubes.I think the flowtechs are 1 3/4".
You have to move the brake valve on top of the frame with any of these headers,to provide more clearance.You will still get one side sitting slightly lower,with either set,but it seems like the Hookers make the collectors end up even with each other,going under the crossmember,so your whole exhaust isn't crooked.
You have to move the brake valve on top of the frame with any of these headers,to provide more clearance.You will still get one side sitting slightly lower,with either set,but it seems like the Hookers make the collectors end up even with each other,going under the crossmember,so your whole exhaust isn't crooked.
#11
If you look at my build thread, you will see how I had to doctor the Flow Techs to make them fit, and one side did hang lower than the other (passenger). The outlets did point properly though.
I changed them out for Hookers and they fit much better.
.
I changed them out for Hookers and they fit much better.
.
#12
The Flowtech headers also rust like hell and needed double gaskets to seal. Mine were the 1 5/8" primary A body headers and were ceramic coated. Rust pin holes everywhere and peeling ceramic within 2 years.
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