62 f-85 cutlass
#1
62 f-85 cutlass
Here is my new car . I am gonna turn it into a drag car, Its gonna be kinda a slow process but my plan is to get it moving under its own power by next year.
Last edited by young olds; September 11th, 2011 at 06:34 PM.
#6
#11
Got the floor cut out last night, I just have to peel the rest of the floor off the frame. after I get an engine block we are going to use it and a th350 to figure out where mounts need to go, front plate, mid plate and trans crossmember. Then we can make a new trans tunnel and floor.
#12
This is my plan for the car. I am gonna stick close to stock colors with a charcoal grey body and flat black roof, burgundy and red interior. The interior is gonna be stripped down to just two bucket seats. For the drivetrain I want a 425 with a 4 speed st-10 or muncie and an 8.5 axle with posi and 4.10 gears. For wheels and tires I want these et wheels with 15x8 five windows in the back and 15x4 classic fives up front, I also want to run the 28" hoosier qtp slicks. Thats my game plan, we will see how close it ends up being, I also want to keep it street legal.
#13
I been collecting parts for my car. I got an 8.5 rear end, some bucket seats and my dad gave me his american racing wheels, they are 200-s 15x8, I also got the parts I need to mount the front axle.
#14
finally an update
I got the front suspension done today, still needs steering though. It's a custom four link setup with Strange adjustable shocks and QA1 springs. It goes through the suspension range nice and the lower triangulated bars keep the axle from moving side to side.
#18
Cool. One suggestion, however. As an aerospace engineer specializing in structures, I'd suggest you rethink the tabs where your upper links attach to the tub. Those rails are relatively thin sheetmetal and your but-welded tabs aren't the best design. Consider revising them to lap over the rails and put the welds in shear, the way you did on the tabs for the bottom links in this photo. Otherwise, carry on.
#20
re
Cool. One suggestion, however. As an aerospace engineer specializing in structures, I'd suggest you rethink the tabs where your upper links attach to the tub. Those rails are relatively thin sheetmetal and your but-welded tabs aren't the best design. Consider revising them to lap over the rails and put the welds in shear, the way you did on the tabs for the bottom links in this photo. Otherwise, carry on.
As a non aerospace engineer, but a guy that spends about 3 days a week in a fabrication/welding/machine shop, I Agree 100% with Joe. We try to stay away from any kind of but welds. I would try to do as he advised!
#25
I got my parts to hang the rear axle, 4 link and coil overs. I got strange single adjustable shocks, qa1 springs, rod ends and jegs coil over mount kit. My dad and I will be making adjustable upper and lower control arms for it then welding up the shock mounts. After that I will be able to bring it back to the ground on jack stands and all I have left to do to get it rolling is build the axle, gears, posi, axle shafts. Looks like it may be rolling again this year
#26
Got a little further this weekend. Lower control arms are welded on the axle and arms made. I need to move the upper control arm mounts on the frame further up then make the upper bars. And im going to have to cut my trunk for to make more room for the coil over to fit behind the axle.
#27
rear end is almost mounted, just need to make the top bars.
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#28
finally got it back on the ground, though on jackstands. The suspension is done!!!!
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Last edited by young olds; May 16th, 2013 at 07:40 PM.
#29
I have been collecting rear end parts, gears and custom axles on the way, to try and get the rear and ready to bolt wheels on by the end of the month.
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#31
My custom 30 spline moser axles came in last night, now i just have to put my new housing ends on, clean, paint, assemble my rear end and it will be ready for wheels and to be a roller again.
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#33
Im putting together a 455 for my car and want to keep it as short as possible. I need a water pump and am wondering what car to say I have to get the short 5" water pump when I go to the parts store.
#34
I am not sure I can answer the question but I would just ask them to let you see them and measure it. I think many of the 330 engines had the short one, maybe ask for a 67 cutlass with 330 and no A/C.
#35
Thanks, ill probably have to do that. I found a water pump thread on here and it was said that all 65-67 water pumps were the short ones. I would prefer an aluminum water pump but either will work as long as its the short one
Last edited by young olds; June 8th, 2013 at 10:56 PM.
#38
finnished welding the axle saturday and got it cleaned up and painted yesterday, just have to put some guts in it.
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Last edited by young olds; June 21st, 2013 at 08:58 AM.