jwr7042

I am trying to cure a bad case of wheel hop. The only thing left is the springs. Any suggestions on what springs to use? I am looking at moog 5379. These are suppose to be same as stock. these are for 1970 442, 455, 4 speed.

Fun71

I had read that the 5409 was the 442 replacement spring. Might be for a different 442 application, though. Below are specs for the two that I found on the Moog spring chart:
http://fme-cat.com/docs/2001.pdf

Note the difference in installed height - this is where I thought the 442 application was 1" shorter than the non-442 Cutlass versions.

Part Number....Inside Dia.....Bar Dia.....Spring Rate....Load....Install Height.....Free Height....End Type 1....End Type 2
5379................5.57...........0.562........12 1.5............760........8.5................14.75 ................PT...................PT
5409................5.52...........0.554........14 3...............847........7.5................13.4 4................PT...................PT

coppercutlass

In the rear im running 1969 442 springs. factory tags on em still. I have ran cargo coils , convertible springs , and currently the 442 springs. I think the 442 springs are shorter as mentioned but they are a thicker coil. If you have wheel hop that bad you will need traction aid like relocation brackets etc etc.

I mentioned on your other thread doing front suspension work. Like moroso trick springs and 90/10 shocks. What this will do is get the front end to rise faster therefore transfering that front weight to the back and planting the tires harded.


if you wanna try some traction bars. I got a set you can have for free. They are the lakewood coils spring style slapper bars. You can adjust em etc etc. The just bolt on the lower control arm and you adjust a heim joint for bar pre load. usually like 8th in air gap.

These. Just pay for shipping. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...FQsIaQodz1oEOA

Run to Rund

I have no wheel hop, and this is the combination that works for me: stiff short coils, after cutting they are probably 170-200 lb/inch since rate goes up as they are cut. On my 66, the top is tangential so cutting them is easy, whereas it isn't for you because you need pigtails on both ends. I have the front lower control arm bolt not more than 1/2" higher from the ground than the rear (on the diff). The upper arm pivots are higher than stock because it is a 9" Ford (aka "Dearborn option" rear, and that helps geometry since the control arms form a 4-link rear suspension. If you were to draw lines through the uppers and lowers, they must intersect somewhere forward of the front pivot point for the suspension to work. I also have stiff rubber bushings in the arms, they can be the old type 388266 (superceded with the soft bushings several decades ago, unfortunately), Lakewood 20590, or something similar. I run the stock 442 rear sway bar.

RetroRanger

this is the 5385 i mentioned in your other thread shows a installed height of 9" but i found it to be to low in the rear FYI

Bar Diameter - Inches 0.59
End Type 1 Pigtail
End Type 2 Pigtail
Free Height - Inches 12.60
ID - Inches 5.57
Installation Height - Inches 9.00
Load - lbs 602.30
Spring Rate - lbs per inch 168.00
Spring Type Constant Rate

jwr7042

if you want to find out what the shipping would be I would love to try them . just got back to check messages. my email is reder@bbc.net

coppercutlass

Shipping should be about 20 bucks but send me your zip code so i can get you a better number.

GEARMAN69

I have found just having a low rear spring ride height makes the lower control arm more parallel with the pavement . It's the angles of the arms when the ride height is up that causes it. I just used old springs bit we have also swapped in 78-87 up style A/G body springs to lower a 68-72 A . Basically just fresh good set of gas shocks and old rear springs with boxed arms and away bar and a set of slicks should take what ever you throw at it. If ride height needs to stay as it, the no hop brackets for the upper arms to become parallel is supposed to work too just have not tried them myself.

jwr7042

zip code is 69301 address james w reder, 1406 bel air, alliance,ne, 69301

coppercutlass

will check sometime this week.

Chesrown 67 OAI

springs have very little effect on wheel hop. Almost everyone that has come to me with wheel hop, the cause of their problem is generally one of 2 things or both, especially if you have replaced upper or lower control arms and the bushings on top of housing.
#1 enemy is you have the bolts TOO TIGHT in the control arms. When these bolts are too tight the rear end is binding. It has to be able to move freely on this 4- link system. Lower control arms should pivot freely when attached only at one end ( push them u and let go and they should fall freely. Uppers wont fall freely because of their size, but you get the picure -- they should move up and down freely after installing the upper bolts in the frame crossover. Almost everyone tightens these so tight you gotta pull hard on them to get them down to the top of the housing to install the lower bolt. These bolts should be installed with crush-nuts so they can be left loose enough for the arms to move, but not be able to back off.
#2 enemy are your shocks ---- THROW THOSE AIR SHOCKS AWAY IF YOU ARE USING THEM. Install a GOOD SET of 50/50 racing style rear shocks or even adjustables,
AND YOUR WHEEL-HOP PROBLEMS WILL BE GONE.
Choose a rear coil spring that allows your ride height "as low as you can stand it" -- and you will be able to drive it on street or strip without wheel-hop.

HOPE THIS HELPS ---- Report back to us with your results after making these changes.

If you want to get a bit more serious == then install a good anti-roll bar set-up.
DO NOT TRY TO RUN NOHOP BARS ON THE STREET -- THEY KILL YOUR RIDE