4 Bolt main 455 race block

Old April 12th, 2016, 05:31 PM
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4 Bolt main 455 race block

What are you using to beef up the bottom end of your race big block. I have been using Dave Smiths caps since 1983 Alum caps are on a 482 that is being up dated and the steel caps are going on a new 482 build. Lets see what you guys are using??



e 1983
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Old April 13th, 2016, 05:22 AM
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temp image upload

Jeff Smith girdle , Program steel caps , 790hp and turns 7700 rpm in the lights 4.200 stroke... Thanks Milan
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Old April 13th, 2016, 10:51 AM
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Very nice Milan, how fast and what are you running it in? I ran a 497 in the 90s turned it to 7600 no block problems just a crank every 2 years 4.375. It ran 8.50s. building a 482 looking to run the same???
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Old April 13th, 2016, 12:55 PM
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My car has gone a best of 9.35 @ 142.94 , race weight is 3360 , best 60 was 1.26.. There is a thread on my car in this section....
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Old April 13th, 2016, 01:30 PM
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Milan, I found it. Very impressive, It's nice to find someone making that kind of power. Wish we lived closer so we could speak Olds. By the end of the year I will have 1 of my 482s in the car. back in the 90s i ran a 497. had to make almost every

thing!!
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Old April 13th, 2016, 03:59 PM
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With guys like you Alan and Milan on this site it is very helpful to us slower guys trying to go faster.
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Old April 13th, 2016, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
With guys like you Alan and Milan on this site it is very helpful to us slower guys trying to go faster.
I would be more than happy to help in any way I can.
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Old April 14th, 2016, 06:03 PM
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Alan what are your thoughts on a stock cast crank stroked to make a 482?
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Old April 14th, 2016, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
Alan what are your thoughts on a stock cast crank stroked to make a 482?
If it's for a street car it would be ok, when you offset grind a crank the rod journal starts out at 2.500 and when its done it's a 2.200 .300 is a lot to take off a cast crank. i would start with a steel crank if it was me. Also if I was building a 482 for the street I would find a early block 68 F,68 F0,68 F00 bore the block .125 use a stock 4.250 crank = 482.33
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Old April 14th, 2016, 07:20 PM
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It isn't for the street. I have a 455 steel crank.
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Old April 15th, 2016, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
It isn't for the street. I have a 455 steel crank.
I would use that crank up to 700hp, any higher I would go aftermarket!
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Old April 17th, 2016, 07:45 AM
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Here is what's going in my new build.
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Old April 17th, 2016, 07:49 AM
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Old April 17th, 2016, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by chadman




Here is what's going in my new build.
Are you not a little worried abut the webs cracking with that. The pan rail looks to be stronger.JMO
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Old April 17th, 2016, 07:56 AM
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No, if you see it in person where the splayed bolts tie in is actually thicker than the pan rail especially after you drill out the pan rail to a larger size bolt hole. Let's face it, none of these Band-Aids are ideal.
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Old April 17th, 2016, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by chadman
Let's face it, none of these Band-Aids are ideal.
X2. But my hat's off to you guys who've been able to make this stuff live at that level.
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Old April 17th, 2016, 12:37 PM
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chadman, nice piece that crank will take a lot of stress off the block. I would like to see the whole build, good heads and cam you will have a power house!!
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Old April 17th, 2016, 01:08 PM
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That is a nice crank. What was cost and time frame.Not that i can buy one no job.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 7903sc
chadman, nice piece that crank will take a lot of stress off the block. I would like to see the whole build, good heads and cam you will have a power house!!
The engine will be 494 CID (4.25x4.35) with a Bryant crank, GRP rods, Wiseco pistons (13.5:1), Edelbrock heads originally CNC'd by Knowlton (2.19 Int. 1.65 Ex.) and then hand worked some more, a pretty big solid roller cam, Victor intake and a 1050 Dominator built by Milan.

It won't be a max effort build but more of a purpose built engine. That purpose is to put a 3400 lb. car under 9.90 E.T. in the heat of the summer, be reliable and run on readily available 112 race fuel. I figure I need to make 725-750 HP to do that so that's the goal.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
That is a nice crank. What was cost and time frame.Not that i can buy one no job.
Just a tad under 3k balanced and shipped to my door. Six months lead time.

Last edited by chadman; April 18th, 2016 at 05:07 AM.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 07:54 AM
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Chadman, where did you get those caps? And did you fill the block at all?
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Old April 18th, 2016, 08:45 AM
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Chadman are those are splayed caps?
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Old April 18th, 2016, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by young olds
Chadman, where did you get those caps? And did you fill the block at all?
Caps are from M&J Proformance. My block is filled to the water pump holes.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wr1970
Chadman are those are splayed caps?
Yes. The splayed bolts tie into the "skirt" of the block.
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Old April 18th, 2016, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by chadman
The engine will be 494 CID (4.25x4.35) with a Bryant crank, GRP rods, Wiseco pistons (13.5:1), Edelbrock heads originally CNC'd by Knowlton (2.19 Int. 1.65 Ex.) and then hand worked some more, a pretty big solid roller cam, Victor intake and a 1050 Dominator built by Milan.

It won't be a max effort build but more of a purpose built engine. That purpose is to put a 3400 lb. car under 9.90 E.T. in the heat of the summer, be reliable and run on readily available 112 race fuel. I figure I need to make 725-750 HP to do that so that's the goal.
Nice build I think you will hit your HP goal easy, If you want to test in a lightweight car let me know!!!
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Old April 18th, 2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chadman
Caps are from M&J Proformance. My block is filled to the water pump holes.
I've been wanting to buy a set of his, nice to finally see them on something. Do you have to fill? How well do big blocks stay cool filled as high as you did?
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Old April 19th, 2016, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by young olds
I've been wanting to buy a set of his, nice to finally see them on something. Do you have to fill? How well do big blocks stay cool filled as high as you did?
Yes the block needs to be filled due to the splayed bolts entering the water passages. For street use I would recommend an external oil cooler with a 1/2 filled block.
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Old April 19th, 2016, 01:10 PM
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Does the fill give the bolts some extra material to thread into or is it just to seal them off?
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Old April 19th, 2016, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by young olds
Does the fill give the bolts some extra material to thread into or is it just to seal them off?
The filler is for strength. You use sealant on the threads of the screws for the coolant.
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Old April 19th, 2016, 04:39 PM
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ok
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