71-72 442 coolant overflow reservoir

[VikingBlue]

want to buy...with bracket...working condition

please pm me

[Allan R]

Hi Viking Blue,
You can get a really good overflow bottle from one of the big Olds parts suppliers. Visit Fusicks or Parts Place. They all have the overflow bottle (as a licensed reproduction) for 199.00 The kit includes the bottle, cap, and mounting hardware. I believe you're going to have to supply your own rubber hose and clamps. PS: I do NOT recommend BAP (Brothers Automotive Products) because of past dealings. You can check what other classic oldsmobilers feel about them. There's an active thread on them and it looks like NOBODY likes dealing with BAP.

check these links
http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/cata...ideimages=true Its in section 23

http://www.fusick.com/catalogdownload.htm



It's pricey, but looks authentic.

BTW, these overflow bottles were introduced because of the overheat problems the Olds BB was having in 1971,1972. It came standard in 1972 on BB 455 Olds A,B&Cbodies. If you went to an Olds dealer with your new 1972 and complained about the overheat (even on a 350 ) they would install one at no cost. Ready for this? The original cost was only around 15 bucks for the entire kit.

Allan R

[VikingBlue]

Thanks Allan...of course I'd buy a car who's original owner wasn't conscientous enough to get the overflow free of charge.

I was aware of the Fusick product but would prefer not to spend $200 plus shipping on a small plastic tub. Hoping someone's got a used one available.

[Allan R]

Hey Virginia,
Good luck getting one for cheap on the market. OEM overflow bottles go for as much as the one at Fusicks. I've tried for over 3 years to get one, even used. Those OEMs are rare. And when an NOS one comes on the market it usually goes for about $350.00 Check out the junk yard. Look specifically for the B Body (Delta 88, Ninety Eight, Custom Cruiser). They were the ones most likely to have a BB 455 and overflow tank.
BTW, if you can make the bracket, Parts Place will sell just the bottle for 119.00.
Then check out Virginia Vettes. They sell the overflow top for about $5.00 instead of the 39.00 that Parts Place wants for it.

If you want just a decent overflow bottle that looks good, but isn't a GM part, check out Year One. They have a coolant recovery kit for 29.00 which includes the tank, lid, clamps, mounting hardware, hoses, and rad cap. I bought one for my car and it was a breeze to install. I might spend the bucks later on one that looks more authentic. But for now?? It looks great (almost like it's a factory part) and is totally functional.

Allan R

[Lady72nRob71]

I have been contemplating this also - to replace the non-original-looking one in my 72 with the $200 repro... Lot of money but would look darn good.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you DO find a used one, it may be too yellowed to look good with a freshly painted engine compartment...
I went to look at an Olds wagon a few weeks ago and it had the factory jug. However it was so yellowed and stained from over the years that no amount of cleaning would restore it.
Just something else to consider...

[VikingBlue]

Thanks Allan and Rob...my engine compartment isn't painted, but I guess a discolored jug would make it look even worse....

Maybe I'll try the junkyard thing...or have the wife get me the Fusick one for Xmas.

Who knew those would be so pricey and rare !

[Jamesbo]

Try my buddy Paul at ros6872@hotmail.com nice HONEST parts guy in Conn. Describes parts accurately, re does mirrors, seat belts and really knows his parts.

[Allan R]

Here's a pic of the tank I got from Year One installed. The size and look of the tank look similar to the washer bottle to make it a more seamless blend. Only took a few minutes to install and it works great. When I installed it, I found I only had about 3 feet of rubber hose left so I used it from the rad to the overflow inlet. The clear plastic stuff they give you will probably not last long and doesn't look that good either. So I'll replace it with rubber too. Overall, I think it looks pretty good and most people who look at the car don't even know it's not original.
BTW, those holes that are beside the mounts are factory holes, but they aren't level, and they're too close to the fender for the bottle. That' why I had to drill new ones. Also, this bottle does have level markings on both sides so you can choose which way you want the overflow to run. Mine runs straight down through a factory hole to the ground below.

I just found a picture of an OEM that they want big$$$ for. Based on it's condition, I'll bet that's why it's still for sale. Which would you put in your car??

[Pghstarsky]

I have a 72 cutlass with the 350. I just bought a universal overflow kit, but I'm not sure which cap to use with it. I know one of you guys has to know. Thanks,
Sam

[Allan R]

Hey Sam,
If it's universal, it probably has a cap rated anywhere from 13-16 lbs. You can use it. I just replaced mine with a 16 lb NOS factory one in my car. Haven't had any problems.

[Pghstarsky]

It didn't come with a cap, that's the problem. And I'm a little confused as to which cap I should use (open, closed, vented...) Thanks,
Sam

[Allan R]

Almost anything from GM with a closed system should work. Those systems usually say VENTED right on the cap. It will also tell you how many pounds (pressure) it's rated at. Most people will run from 13-16 pounds. I just use a standard NOS cap. Inside pressure of the cooling system will look after whether the rad needs to overflow. Remember the cap just acts as a pressure release and allows hot coolant into the run off channel going to the reservoir. The overflow channel is actually part of the radiator where you attach the rubber hose that goes to the overflow bottle. I attached a link that shows how this works in another thread, but here it is again. Just put the mouse pointer on the "overheat" button and clik. Watch it a couple of times and read the text that goes with it.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

Hope this was helpful.

[Pghstarsky]

The only problem I have with that is when I used the vented cap, it never felt like there was any pressure in the system. The upper rad hose never got pressurized. I understand how radiator caps work, I just don't understand the difference between a vented and a closed cap.

[Allan R]

A vented cap has a lever that lets you manually relieve system pressure. Otherwise, they're the same in operation.
Most caps these days are "vented" to a plastic overflow reservoir. This means that they have a one-way valve on the bottom of the plunger that closes when there is pressure in the radiator and opens when there is a vacuum in there. In the case of a 16# cap, when the pressure in the rad goes over 16#, it pushes the plunger up and releases the pressure into the little tube sticking out the side of the cap holder. Any steam/water under pressure blows out this little tube. If you have a hose between the little tube and the recirculating tank the steam and water go into the tank (it usually enters from the bottom and is vented at the top). When everything cools down, the radiator now has a vacuum in there and the little one-way valve on a "vented" cap opens and permits the liquid held in the recirculating tank to return into the radiator, because the vacuum from the cooled-down rad now sucks the water from the bottom of the recirculating tank back into the radiator. Old sytle rad caps don't have that little one-way valve in there.
Most older cars used to run much cooler, and had a larger radiator so they normally didn't require a recovery tank, because they seldom "boiled over", unless there was some kind of problem. Therefore most of them you see will have a non-vented rad cap with a vent hose exiting to the street, just in case. Modern day engines are designed to run at higher temps and in many instances dump coolant into a recovery tank from to be "recovered" later, when the engine cools down.

[Pghstarsky]

Actually I believe that the cap you are describing is what's called a "safety release vented cap" I do not have that...The vented cap that I am referring to looks just like a regular 16# rad cap, but it says "vented" on it. Here's what I am talking about, if you look up the rad cap for a 72 cutlass with a 350. It's just a standard cap (open or closed system) Stant #10230. But for a 75 cutlass, it says "Standard vented cap" (open or closed system). Stant #10231. What is the difference? And which one would be better for my circumstance? I think what you are saying is that the unvented or regular cap will not allow fluid to draw back in...is that correct? I'm really sorry for not understanding completely. Thanks for your help. I do appreciate it.

Vikingblue I have one for $5 if want an aftermarket one it is in good working order and still holding water.
Let me know 800-905-8024
Brian.