Gas Tank Pads--- Restoration Item
#1
Gas Tank Pads--- Restoration Item
I sell New Gas Tank Pads for 64-72 GM A-body cars. These pads/insulators were installed on top of the gas tank as an anti-rattle/insulator on cars up through 1970. It appears that GM stopped using them on some or all A-bodies after 1970 but the pads will work fine on the post-70 cars. I can also make these in other sizes so ask if you have something other than an A-body (Cutlass/442/Skylark/GS/Tempest/Lemans/GTO/Chevelle/Malibu).
My pads are a nice thick material, very similar to the original...however, they won't crack and crumble like the original material tends to do.
Price is $28 each + shipping
PM or Email me with your zip code and I can send you a total including shipping. Payment can be regular check or MO...I don't use paypal as it only adds costs.
Here are some pics:
My pads are a nice thick material, very similar to the original...however, they won't crack and crumble like the original material tends to do.
Price is $28 each + shipping
PM or Email me with your zip code and I can send you a total including shipping. Payment can be regular check or MO...I don't use paypal as it only adds costs.
Here are some pics:
Last edited by 70Post; March 29th, 2022 at 06:08 PM.
#2
More pics---I would have posted them all above but I tried loading them all in one ad for the past two nights and for some reason the site wouldn't work.
These pics are the first installation I did....this is the Azure Blue 1970 W30 4 speed convertible that is featured (along with two other 70 w30 4pd ragtops) in the current issue of Musclecar Enthusiast Magazine. We took Best Of Class at the Olds Club of America Nats this last summer in Bowling Green, KY with this car. Was it the Gas Tank Pad that did it?????.......HECK YES!!!
Just kidding but the judges did notice the pad and thought it was a great piece of detailing in the overall restoration.
NOTE: In one of the pics below you can see the gas tank sending unit wire running from UNDER THE PAD to the back of the car...this is how the factory placed the sending tank wire.
These pics are the first installation I did....this is the Azure Blue 1970 W30 4 speed convertible that is featured (along with two other 70 w30 4pd ragtops) in the current issue of Musclecar Enthusiast Magazine. We took Best Of Class at the Olds Club of America Nats this last summer in Bowling Green, KY with this car. Was it the Gas Tank Pad that did it?????.......HECK YES!!!
Just kidding but the judges did notice the pad and thought it was a great piece of detailing in the overall restoration.
NOTE: In one of the pics below you can see the gas tank sending unit wire running from UNDER THE PAD to the back of the car...this is how the factory placed the sending tank wire.
#3
Two more pics---Thanks for looking. I am relatively new to this site....you can check out my reputation/credibility over on RealOldsPower.com ("70post") or V8Buick.com ("pglade").....I have a large number of satisfied buyers on both those sites.
Last edited by 70Post; June 9th, 2008 at 08:49 PM.
#6
Original installation was simple...they slid the pad on top of the tank and pushed the tank up in place....no glue, etc. I've installed a number of these and there is nothing to it. They have some heft (weight) so they stay on top of the tank once you set them up there.
Once the tank straps are tightened up there isn't any movement.
Thanks.
Once the tank straps are tightened up there isn't any movement.
Thanks.
#12
Some people don't think very far ahead. Within a few months of when you run out or otherwise quit selling them, we will hear whining. They aren't expensive, but are a significant part for safety (prevent the sheet metal tank from getting rubbed and squirming around) as well as appearance. Patton, I know you will custom cut to fit other models and I think "everyone" should have at least one!
#15
I suspect cars other than A-bodies used them also...you may need to get up under the car, poke your head way up there, and look around, and back from, the top of the tank where it touches the underside of the floorpan...you may be able to see an edge of it up under there (if it's there). Going by the way GM operated then, it would seem the more luxurious, higher $ cars would have had something like this installed if the "lesser" A-bodies also had it.
Also----if you have access to an Assembly Manual for your model/year it may show it (again..only if the factory was installing them that year). Don't overlook the possibility that there may just be a couple strips of the tank material up there somewhere.
In any event (as I mention in the text of the ad), I can make these in custom sizes, etc so don't hesitate to ask.
I'll see if a guy I know here has an Assembly Manual for that year.
Thanks very much.
Also----if you have access to an Assembly Manual for your model/year it may show it (again..only if the factory was installing them that year). Don't overlook the possibility that there may just be a couple strips of the tank material up there somewhere.
In any event (as I mention in the text of the ad), I can make these in custom sizes, etc so don't hesitate to ask.
I'll see if a guy I know here has an Assembly Manual for that year.
Thanks very much.
#16
Well finally got around to crawling under the 65 Olds 88 to look at the gas tank. Can't tell if there is pad under there but seems like there should be one. Tank is a 25 gallon tank and measures 35 inches by 31 or so. Since it has to come off at some point and be refurbished, (whole car is going to be redone at some point) I would certainly be interested in a pad at $23 plus shipping.
#19
Azure Blue....things thta make ya go......HMMMMMMMMMMM....
I am wondering about this W-30 convertible you spoke of Posty...would it happen to be a southern car?....maybe from NC.....reason I ask....I own a 70 Cutlass SX convertible from Greensboro NC.....I found out a couple years ago while watching Barrett-Jackson car auction, I found out that it was very popular for people living in Greensboro, NC....this was due to the fact that NC Tarheels fans would order these GM brand cars in #20 (azure blue) My car was owned by a salesman at the dealership where it was sold at for 9 years and then the 2nd owner I bought the car from acquired it....I was just wondering about this car you spoke of....#20 was a very unusual color....... not many people ordered that color when there were so many better color choices....on the other hand....people love to use it for weddings....and like scars....chicks dig it......Oldsdroptop....
#20
Oldsdroptop---I didn't learn much history on the car other than the fact that the guy we restored it for basically bought it from a guy in Florida that had started in on the restoration already. In fact, a lot of body panel work had already been done on the car (all of which had to be REDONE!) as well as a lot of the frame/chassis (which was done pretty nicely....mainly because the owner himself was doing the chassis and not the bodyshop that was doing the "bodywork").
I guess the owner heard of this car, talked to the owner or went down there and waived enough $$$ in front of the guy to get him to sell it rather than keep it. At the time, the guy we did the work for had become super-focused on this model (70 W-30 4 spd converts) and was serious about getting his hands on a few of them......which he ultimately did.
I guess the owner heard of this car, talked to the owner or went down there and waived enough $$$ in front of the guy to get him to sell it rather than keep it. At the time, the guy we did the work for had become super-focused on this model (70 W-30 4 spd converts) and was serious about getting his hands on a few of them......which he ultimately did.
#33
There is no coating that will work as well as a coating/paint plus 70Post's pad as a cushion. Body flex will wear through a simple coating. I have two of the pads and would not consider a restoration complete and satisfactory without the pad. The stock pads were junk and crumbled. Reinforcing fibers in 70Post's pads make them very durable and equally functional.
#34
There is no coating that will work as well as a coating/paint plus 70Post's pad as a cushion. Body flex will wear through a simple coating. I have two of the pads and would not consider a restoration complete and satisfactory without the pad. The stock pads were junk and crumbled. Reinforcing fibers in 70Post's pads make them very durable and equally functional.
This is an area where I would not use "Factory" techniques ...
#35
I haven't seen a need for any extraordinary coating. In my cars and in numerous cars I've seen in salvage yards I haven't seen any evidence of that problem.
1) "Condensation" inside the trunk is different.....first, that's a "closed" area with little to no air circulation when the trunk is closed so condensation can take a long time to dry out. Second, the underside of a lot of the factory trunk mats is a foam/sponge rubber type material....perfect for soaking up and RETAINING MOISTURE. Third, I don't think that it's the ordinary condensation process as we think of it that is introducing water inside the trunk....IT'S MUCH MORE....leaky and ill-fitting trunk lid weatherstrips allowing a lot of water inside the trunk.
2) The gas tanks (original and the good repros) are made of a steel mix and/or plated to resist corrosion.
3)Trunk floors tend to rot out from the TOPSIDE, not underneath....see #1
4) My pads are a solid material and can't soak up any moisture.
Sure, if you are going to be driving you car like it may have been driven "back in the day", maybe some extra measures are in order...but you better do that to EVERYTHING under the car. Remember, many of these cars were daily drivers and were driven all four seasons of the year..including salted winter road season.
On a car that isn't going to be subjected to the same salt/snow/slush exposure like back then, whatever good paint is on the underside is fine.
1) "Condensation" inside the trunk is different.....first, that's a "closed" area with little to no air circulation when the trunk is closed so condensation can take a long time to dry out. Second, the underside of a lot of the factory trunk mats is a foam/sponge rubber type material....perfect for soaking up and RETAINING MOISTURE. Third, I don't think that it's the ordinary condensation process as we think of it that is introducing water inside the trunk....IT'S MUCH MORE....leaky and ill-fitting trunk lid weatherstrips allowing a lot of water inside the trunk.
2) The gas tanks (original and the good repros) are made of a steel mix and/or plated to resist corrosion.
3)Trunk floors tend to rot out from the TOPSIDE, not underneath....see #1
4) My pads are a solid material and can't soak up any moisture.
Sure, if you are going to be driving you car like it may have been driven "back in the day", maybe some extra measures are in order...but you better do that to EVERYTHING under the car. Remember, many of these cars were daily drivers and were driven all four seasons of the year..including salted winter road season.
On a car that isn't going to be subjected to the same salt/snow/slush exposure like back then, whatever good paint is on the underside is fine.
#36
I have personally seen many gas tanks that had damage from rust on trailer queens ...
How are the judges receiving this product ...
1. '70 442/cutlass designed to condensate and rust ...
2. ...
3. gas tank rust from the top side from the mat dripping ...
4. I like a material that soaks up the water and wicks it dry,
How are the judges receiving this product ...
1. '70 442/cutlass designed to condensate and rust ...
2. ...
3. gas tank rust from the top side from the mat dripping ...
4. I like a material that soaks up the water and wicks it dry,
Last edited by mugzilla; January 3rd, 2010 at 02:11 PM.
#39
Looks like a great product. I had to make my own about 3 years ago. I used a piece of interior sound deadener from Year One. The piece I ordered came big enough to actually make two pads. It appeared almost the same as the original pad - tar substance with brown paper on one side, but the other side was just the bare tar substance. I cut the piece to get two pieces the exact shape of the old pad, and then used a giant roll of a clear "saran wrap" type clear cover and glued it to the bare tar side. The finished product looked, I would say, almost exactly like the original. The downside was that I spent a lot more than "$23 plus shipping" for each piece! Good luck on your much needed product. For those of us that like our finish to be a close to original as possible, you've got the right idea. I used the thick rubber pads Year One sells as gas tank pads for floor pads on another project I had going!