deadeyejedi

Hey guys I'm looking into putting the olds back in her original paint my body tag appears to read 48 for the paint code . Some info I've read says that's sequoia green. But that's not listed in the color chart for 1972 cutlass supreme .the two greens I see listed are radiant and pinehurst green which carry codes of 36 and 43 . I'll post my tag to help verify .

deadeyejedi

Well that wasnt the pic I meant to send that's the color on the door

vette442

Sequoia Green is what your photo shows, and it is a '72 color. Pinehurst is much lighter and Radiant is a bright Irish-looking green.

This Sequoia Green Supreme belongs to forum member Greg:



Terry

deadeyejedi

I'll try this again

deadeyejedi

Thanks for the help I was hoping for that answer .

deadeyejedi

Would this be a base coat clear coat system ?

deadeyejedi

Any suggestions I where to buy the paint online ? There seems to be a hundred choices

Allan R

Originally it was a lacquer finish. Nowadays most shops will spray either enamel or BC/CC depending on customer request. All new cars are BC/CC though and IMO it's a better and more durable finish.

joe_padavano

I don't know what list you are looking at, but my 1972 GM paint chip chart clearly shows paint code 48 as Sequoia Green Metallic. DuPont paint code is 5429. This is for the original lacquer, which is pretty much unavailable in most states anymore. BC/CC is better paint technology. A good paint store can match that old DuPont code number.

deadeyejedi

The choices I was referring to werent actually the color but the types of paints thinners reducers hardeners and all that jazz . My paint store said they could match it but I thought buying online could save me some money

Allan R

As Terry mentioned Sequoia Green IS a 72 color palette choice. What is your source of information. The one glaring color that WASN'T on the standard color palette for any of the GM A bodies in 72 was code 19, Ebony Black. That had to be special ordered and approved by Olds at extra cost.

deadeyejedi

I guess I'm misunderstood I'm aware of the paint code and plan on going with the sequoia green . Just trying to figure out what paint to use .ie DuPont , ppg, and they all offer several types of reducers and catalyst , different types of clear coat . I guess I just don't know enough about this painting process . I will do the bc cc that seems to be the popular choice .thank for the input.

Allan R

Maybe this link will help you.

1972 Oldsmobile Color chart - Cross reference index

deadeyejedi

Thanks I'll look into them . One other think is there a huge difference between paint that's 50 bucks a quart as opposed to 150 a quart ? Is this one of those you get what you pay for situations?

andrewk94

Great color! Recently painted most of my 72 with same color.

don71

I've painted a number of cars but I'm no painter. I learned at least that much. I can share a few observations. Its expensive before any labor is involved.

Don't mix brands unless you know the product. Pick one and stick with that line of products.

Use the proper reducer for the air temps.

Use the best clear you can afford. Don't skimp on the clear.

Don't rush it.

If you are not using a booth try to paint early in the day, before the bugs smell that sweet new paint, and they will.

deadeyejedi

Thanks for the advice this will be my first auto paint job but I'm convinced I can do a good job if I take my time .

Allan R

Likely. BC / CC incurs more costs likely due to application techniques and bake time.

One thing about the thickness of the BC/CC. You can overdo it IMO especially if you need to reinstall trim pieces that is a press fit over a lip (such as door guard edges, drip moldings or trunk reveal moldings). Take that into account when you're deciding how many layers of clear to spray. I found this out from experience. My car has 3 layers of clear and reinstalling the trunk trim was a real PITA and very time consuming. Not like from the factory where the paint was only microns thick and trim just popped on.

deadeyejedi

That's a good point that I would not have considered . It will be a few more weeks but I'll bump the thread to let you guys know the outcome

deadeyejedi

i stopped at the body shop and got a price on the paint, reducer ,clear and hardener this was their middle of the road line of ppg and quoted me 500.00 for all does that seem reasonable ? I've seen kits offered online from a couple places in the 300 range but not sure of the quality

joe_padavano

$500 is reasonable for PPG. The less expensive paints aren't as UV stable as the more expensive ones. Also, base coat varies by color, as different pigments have different costs. Reds tend to be the most expensive.

dc2x4drvr

You'll get what you pay for, buy a known brand from a local automotive paint supplier, they can be a great knowledge base if you're doing it yourself..

deadeyejedi

well i bit the bullet and sprayed some paint ! love the color will have to clear it in the morning .im not exactly a pro at body and paint since this is my first restoration but pretty happy so far . should i sand the base coat before the clear or just shoot it ?

Allan R

Nooooo. You never sand the base coat unless you screwed it up and have to respray. Shoot it with clear following manufacturers tac times. Once it's cured you can wet sand the clear and buff it to a mirror finish. It's a labor intensive job and you need to have a good feel for the progressive changes to the wet sand paper grits. Be especially careful sanding and polishing on any of the ridges.

deadeyejedi

haha an emphatic noooo .thanks for the reply .the tech sheet says i have 24 hours to clear so ill get on it first thing in the morning

deadeyejedi

just wanted to bump this thread to thank you guys for the help. painted all but the fenders and hood and it came out pretty well.the guys at the paint shop were also very helpful .you don't know if you don't try