Sea foam

Pfiffle · 02-21-2008, 04:32 PM

Anyone use it? Or is it just another gimmick "fix all".

J-(Chicago) · 02-21-2008, 04:33 PM

I think it sucks.

J-(Chicago) · 02-21-2008, 05:18 PM

Your best bet is to run a top tier gasoline if you want a cleaner engine. Chevron, Shell, or 76 are all good gasolines.
http://toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html

Seafoam is just Alcohol, water, naptha
and refinery runoff pale oil. http://lyondell.com/lyondell/techlit...0_PALE_OIL.pdf

Also I suggest that you do some research on hydrolock before you use it. Even though it will be very hard to hydrolock anything with a small can of seafoam, it's a good thing to know about before putting random liquids into your motor.

Pfiffle · 02-21-2008, 05:50 PM

Ok, I'm glad I asked. I've got a dieseling problem with my 1970 Ninety Eight 455 4 barrel. I bought it off a 90 year old woman and I'll bet she was using the cheapest gas available and probably lower octane that this engine requires. I believe It has 10.25:1 compression. I'll start with draining the tank and filling it with Super, give it a good run, and see what happens. Thanks.

J-(Chicago) · 02-21-2008, 06:01 PM

Check your timing.

Pfiffle · 02-22-2008, 11:09 AM

Yes, I will check the timing. Thanks. It's on jack stands for now but when I let it down, I'm going to install the Pertonex coil/ignition in it also. Carb probably needs a rebuild after 38 years too. I'm going to stay away from Sea foam.

The_Jeremiah · 02-22-2008, 11:37 AM

what i always do, is fill it with premuim and add some fuel injector/carb cleaner, and take it down the freeway at 75. for awhile good luck

Pfiffle · 02-22-2008, 12:42 PM

Yes. I will give it a good run.

Olds64 · 02-22-2008, 02:50 PM

I like Sea Foam. I think it is one of the better oil/gas additives. They might not do much but they can give you peace of mind.

Oldsguy had a 1989 Ford LTD with a 5.0L engine that had sticky lifters and leaky valve guides. A friend of his had some auto tech students take a look at it. They drained the oil, filled it with Sea Foam and let it sit for a week. Then they drained the Sea Foam, added oil and an appropriate amount of Sea Foam to the crankcase and started it up. No more noisy lifters.

However, the additive must have destroyed the valve guide seals because it smoked HORRIBLY!

don71 · 02-22-2008, 03:25 PM

I have had good luck with sea foam. Following the directions on the can, it cured my problem. I make it a habit to use it twice a year now.

J-(Chicago) · 02-23-2008, 07:36 AM

If they had filled Oldsguy's motor with trans fluid, it would have probably worked with a similar (or better) result.

Oldsguy · 02-23-2008, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Olds64

....Oldsguy had a 1989 Ford LTD with a 5.0L engine that had sticky lifters and leaky valve guides.....:

I was sure relieved to sell that thing. It had just gotten old, and since it was not an Oldsmobile, no need to save it.

Pfiffle · 02-23-2008, 08:08 AM

Well, then I guess it's an option if Good gas and ignition/timing don't solve it. As I said, the previous owner was a 90 year old woman who used it to go to Bingo and the food store so It probably didn't see the highway much. It's got 76,000 original miles and it's a Texas car. The paint is fried but there's no rust. Still waiting for my QQ plates though (New Jersey!) and theres alot of snow and salt on the roads here. A good highway run might help. Thanks for all the input.

amh555 · 02-23-2008, 08:28 AM

Does that carb have the anti-dieseling/stall dashpot or solenoid? I had the same problem when I shut mine down and just adjusted the solenoid/dashpot to specified rpm and the reset the timing to specs, always with premium gas and to running temperature. If it is doing it while driving timing and bad gas would be suspect as mentioned in the other posts. The Pertronix unit is a good move, first thing I do is put pointless conversions in my cars. I have had good luck with the Mallory Unilite conversion unit, have had one for 12 years in my Goat and has never missed a beat. I remember all the boat guys using that Sea-Foam stuff when I was a kid, my Dad swore by it. I always find tons of sludge in the engines of old folks cars, a lot just don't drive far enough to warm them up properly.

Allan

Pfiffle · 02-23-2008, 08:50 AM

Where on the carb would that dashpot be located? I know theres a dashpot on there but I'm not sure if it's the one you are reffering to. Tom.

rocketraider · 02-23-2008, 04:52 PM

Look on the driver's side front of the carb. Sometimes they're electric, sometimes vacuum operated, and sometimes just a simple spring dashpot. The idea is to drop idle speed/throttle plate opening to where the engine starves for air and can't run.

You must remember 1970 was the peak of Olds high-compression. Those engines do not like low octane gas; they were designed for 100-106 octane. Use the best premium you can find and add some lead substitute to each tankful. Jack Podell www.jackpodellfuelinjections.com sells a good quality product that is about the only one I've found that does what it claims.

SeaFoam won't hurt a thing in your engine. Like Marvel Mystery Oil, a product doesn't stay around for 60+ years unless it does something right. Used properly it's a very good decarbonizer/top engine cleaner.

Trans fluid, MMO or Rislone are high detergent fine oils that, used in the crankcase, will dissolve sludge and free sticky rings and lifters. However, they don't do anything for carbon buildup on valves and pistons. You need a different type of solvent for that. Diesel and JP-4 are some powerful solvents if you're not afraid to put a quart or so in your tank when you fill up, but the car will smoke and stink like nothing you ever saw...

J, I'm not following your hydrolock theory. You put the SF in thru a vacuum port, it's going to vaporize before it hits the intake valves. A liquid goes from atmospheric pressure to 15-20" Hg vacuum, it's not going to stay liquid. That's why it's possible to pour some water down the carb throat and crack off carbon deposits. It vaporizes under engine vacuum, and when it hits combustion chamber temps, it flashes to steam.

GoodOldsGuy · 02-23-2008, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pfiffle

Ok, I'm glad I asked. I've got a dieseling problem with my 1970 Ninety Eight 455 4 barrel. I bought it off a 90 year old woman and I'll bet she was using the cheapest gas available and probably lower octane that this engine requires. I believe It has 10.25:1 compression. I'll start with draining the tank and filling it with Super, give it a good run, and see what happens. Thanks.

One other forum member mentioned a decarbonizer...I think you might have carbon buildup on top of the pistons. With the engine hot and the compression ratio as high as it is, the run on might just be caused by the glowing carbon on top of the pistons. Just MHO. A little water or Top Engine Cleaner (GM) drizzled in at RPM (2,000) then let stand for 20 min. Start up and stand back. (smoke) When it clears your problem should be gone. Just my 2 cents. Hope this works for your problem.

Regards,

GoodOldsGuy

J-(Chicago) · 02-23-2008, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocketraider

J, I'm not following your hydrolock theory. You put the SF in thru a vacuum port, it's going to vaporize before it hits the intake valves.

Hey man, I have seen hillbillies take off their carbs, and dump the bottle down their intake before. You just never know what people are going to do with it.

Oh you broke your leg?? rub some Robitussin on it, let it soak in. Haha. You never know.....

Pfiffle · 02-24-2008, 05:07 AM

Excellent info Guys, thanks. This site never lets me down.

Olds64 · 02-24-2008, 06:51 AM

I have also heard that you can pour ATF down the carburetor while the engine is running to help clean the engine. I don't know if it works but it surely makes the engine smoke. I could definitely see how Sea Foam, Diesel, or JP4 would clean the engine when used in the same manner. I would just be afraid of damaging something.

Pfiffle · 02-24-2008, 10:05 AM

Yes, thats my concern. I really don't know much about the history of this car axcept that an older person owned it.From that I'm just guessing that the cylinders have some carbon in them and thats whats causing the dieseling and read somewhere that Sea Foam clears that sort of thing. I know in the old Days my father used to take his cars on a (High Speed) highway run to "blow the carbon out" once in a while. Speeding tickets and insurance were cheaper back then though.

Pfiffle · 02-29-2008, 01:00 PM

Well, I sea foamed it.(1970 Ninety Eight) Had it sipping through the PCV hose from a cup. Turned it off. Waited 5 minutes. Started it up and no thick cloud of smoke. It didn't diesel when I turned it off though. Should I have used another vaccum hose? Or did it do It's job? I was expecting a big cloud and I did it today because It's cold as hell outside and my nieghbors would not get that shit in their houses with windows closed. The gas gauge worked for a while too ( I recently drained the old gas with a siphon) maybe that loosened the mechanichels in the sending unit. Any thought? Tom.

Oldsguy · 02-29-2008, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pfiffle

Well, I sea foamed it.(1970 Ninety Eight) Had it sipping through the PCV hose from a cup. Turned it off. Waited 5 minutes. Started it up and no thick cloud of smoke. It didn't diesel when I turned it off though. Should I have used another vaccum hose? Or did it do It's job?

If that is the way the directions said to apply it then you did it right. No cloud of smoke? Does it warn you that will happen? Perhaps expecting to break down the valve guide sludge? I don't know.....

Quote:

I was expecting a big cloud and I did it today because It's cold as hell outside and my nieghbors would not get that shit in their houses with windows closed. The gas gauge worked for a while too ( I recently drained the old gas with a siphon) maybe that loosened the mechanichels in the sending unit. Any thought?

Maybe adding some to the fuel tank would loosen some more stuff but then you run the risk of clogging the filter sock on the fuel pick-up in the tank, or worse, if the sock is gone/deteroirated taking that gunk up to the fuel pump or the carburetor.

Pfiffle · 02-29-2008, 01:47 PM

Oh Boy! Didn't think that the sock may be gone. Good thought. Better drop the tank, you think?

88 coupe · 03-01-2008, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

Your best bet is to run a top tier gasoline if you want a cleaner engine ........

Or you can do a couple of, zero to the speed limit, on ramp entrances at WOT.

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

........ Chevron, Shell, or 76 are all good gasolines ........

From elsewhere, on the same site: http://toptiergas.com/retailers.html

Quote:

TOP TIER Gasoline Retailers:

QuikTrip
Chevron
Conoco
Phillips
76
Shell
Entec Stations
MFA Oil Company
Kwik Trip/Kwik Star
The Somerset Refinery, Inc.
Chevron-Canada
Aloha Petroleum
Tri-Par Oil Company
Shell-Canada
Texaco
Petro-Canada
Sunoco-Canada

From: http://www.usatoday.com/money/indust...terstitialskip

Quote:

All gasoline should be adequate. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency requires a certain level of engine-cleaning additives in gasoline. And bulk gasoline before the additives go in must meet certain industry standards. But Shell and others trying to distinguish themselves from the discounters say that fuel meeting just those minimum standards won't keep your engine clean.

The "placebo" effect applies.

Norm

88 coupe · 03-01-2008, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by don71

........ Following the directions on the can, it cured my problem ........

What problem?

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-(Chicago)

If they had filled Oldsguy's motor with ........

Or simply changed the oil and filter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by amh555

........ Pertronix unit is a good move ,.......

Only from a maintenance standpoint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by amh555

........ all the boat guys using that Sea-Foam stuff ........

I understand it's a good "fuel stabilizer" for the off season.

Norm

02-21-2008, 04:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Sea foam Anyone use it? Or is it just another gimmick "fix all".

02-21-2008, 04:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,650	I think it sucks. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand.

02-21-2008, 05:18 PM	#3 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,650	Your best bet is to run a top tier gasoline if you want a cleaner engine. Chevron, Shell, or 76 are all good gasolines. http://toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html Seafoam is just Alcohol, water, naptha and refinery runoff pale oil. http://lyondell.com/lyondell/techlit...0_PALE_OIL.pdf Also I suggest that you do some research on hydrolock before you use it. Even though it will be very hard to hydrolock anything with a small can of seafoam, it's a good thing to know about before putting random liquids into your motor. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand. Last edited by J-(Chicago) : 02-21-2008 at 05:37 PM.

02-21-2008, 06:01 PM	#5 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,650	Check your timing. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand.

02-22-2008, 11:37 AM	#7 (permalink)
The_Jeremiah Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 248	what i always do, is fill it with premuim and add some fuel injector/carb cleaner, and take it down the freeway at 75. for awhile good luck __________________ 69 Cutlass 4 door. Built 350 inside, grandma's grocery getter outside. Best sleeper in disguise.

02-21-2008, 05:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Ok, I'm glad I asked. I've got a dieseling problem with my 1970 Ninety Eight 455 4 barrel. I bought it off a 90 year old woman and I'll bet she was using the cheapest gas available and probably lower octane that this engine requires. I believe It has 10.25:1 compression. I'll start with draining the tank and filling it with Super, give it a good run, and see what happens. Thanks.

02-22-2008, 11:09 AM	#6 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Yes, I will check the timing. Thanks. It's on jack stands for now but when I let it down, I'm going to install the Pertonex coil/ignition in it also. Carb probably needs a rebuild after 38 years too. I'm going to stay away from Sea foam.

02-22-2008, 12:42 PM	#8 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Yes. I will give it a good run.

02-22-2008, 02:50 PM	#9 (permalink)
Olds64 Landyacht Club President Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Lawton, OK Posts: 1,811	I like Sea Foam. I think it is one of the better oil/gas additives. They might not do much but they can give you peace of mind. Oldsguy had a 1989 Ford LTD with a 5.0L engine that had sticky lifters and leaky valve guides. A friend of his had some auto tech students take a look at it. They drained the oil, filled it with Sea Foam and let it sit for a week. Then they drained the Sea Foam, added oil and an appropriate amount of Sea Foam to the crankcase and started it up. No more noisy lifters. However, the additive must have destroyed the valve guide seals because it smoked HORRIBLY! __________________ "Some men are Baptists, others Catholics. My father was an OLDSMOBILE man." Ralphie Billingsley A Christmas Story 1983 "We rei-eign, supreme, ooooh god! Burrito supreme, and a chicken supreme, and a CUTLASS SUPREME!" Tenacious D 2007

02-22-2008, 03:25 PM	#10 (permalink)
don71 feed the pig Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Central Missouri Posts: 178	I have had good luck with sea foam. Following the directions on the can, it cured my problem. I make it a habit to use it twice a year now. __________________ 1971 Cutlass S 455/th400 3.23 rear.

02-23-2008, 07:36 AM	#11 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,650	If they had filled Oldsguy's motor with trans fluid, it would have probably worked with a similar (or better) result. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand.

02-23-2008, 08:08 AM	#13 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Well, then I guess it's an option if Good gas and ignition/timing don't solve it. As I said, the previous owner was a 90 year old woman who used it to go to Bingo and the food store so It probably didn't see the highway much. It's got 76,000 original miles and it's a Texas car. The paint is fried but there's no rust. Still waiting for my QQ plates though (New Jersey!) and theres alot of snow and salt on the roads here. A good highway run might help. Thanks for all the input.

02-23-2008, 08:28 AM	#14 (permalink)
amh555 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 296	Does that carb have the anti-dieseling/stall dashpot or solenoid? I had the same problem when I shut mine down and just adjusted the solenoid/dashpot to specified rpm and the reset the timing to specs, always with premium gas and to running temperature. If it is doing it while driving timing and bad gas would be suspect as mentioned in the other posts. The Pertronix unit is a good move, first thing I do is put pointless conversions in my cars. I have had good luck with the Mallory Unilite conversion unit, have had one for 12 years in my Goat and has never missed a beat. I remember all the boat guys using that Sea-Foam stuff when I was a kid, my Dad swore by it. I always find tons of sludge in the engines of old folks cars, a lot just don't drive far enough to warm them up properly. Allan Last edited by amh555 : 02-23-2008 at 08:35 AM.

02-23-2008, 08:50 AM	#15 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Where on the carb would that dashpot be located? I know theres a dashpot on there but I'm not sure if it's the one you are reffering to. Tom. Last edited by Pfiffle : 02-23-2008 at 09:19 AM.

02-23-2008, 04:52 PM	#16 (permalink)
rocketraider Oldsdruid Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Danville Vajenya, the Last Capital of Dixie Posts: 403	Look on the driver's side front of the carb. Sometimes they're electric, sometimes vacuum operated, and sometimes just a simple spring dashpot. The idea is to drop idle speed/throttle plate opening to where the engine starves for air and can't run. You must remember 1970 was the peak of Olds high-compression. Those engines do not like low octane gas; they were designed for 100-106 octane. Use the best premium you can find and add some lead substitute to each tankful. Jack Podell www.jackpodellfuelinjections.com sells a good quality product that is about the only one I've found that does what it claims. SeaFoam won't hurt a thing in your engine. Like Marvel Mystery Oil, a product doesn't stay around for 60+ years unless it does something right. Used properly it's a very good decarbonizer/top engine cleaner. Trans fluid, MMO or Rislone are high detergent fine oils that, used in the crankcase, will dissolve sludge and free sticky rings and lifters. However, they don't do anything for carbon buildup on valves and pistons. You need a different type of solvent for that. Diesel and JP-4 are some powerful solvents if you're not afraid to put a quart or so in your tank when you fill up, but the car will smoke and stink like nothing you ever saw... J, I'm not following your hydrolock theory. You put the SF in thru a vacuum port, it's going to vaporize before it hits the intake valves. A liquid goes from atmospheric pressure to 15-20" Hg vacuum, it's not going to stay liquid. That's why it's possible to pour some water down the carb throat and crack off carbon deposits. It vaporizes under engine vacuum, and when it hits combustion chamber temps, it flashes to steam. __________________ I know absolutely nothing about Oldsmobiles. Just ask the owner of Oldspower.com Last edited by rocketraider : 02-23-2008 at 04:56 PM.

02-24-2008, 05:07 AM	#19 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Excellent info Guys, thanks. This site never lets me down.

02-24-2008, 06:51 AM	#20 (permalink)
Olds64 Landyacht Club President Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Lawton, OK Posts: 1,811	I have also heard that you can pour ATF down the carburetor while the engine is running to help clean the engine. I don't know if it works but it surely makes the engine smoke. I could definitely see how Sea Foam, Diesel, or JP4 would clean the engine when used in the same manner. I would just be afraid of damaging something. __________________ "Some men are Baptists, others Catholics. My father was an OLDSMOBILE man." Ralphie Billingsley A Christmas Story 1983 "We rei-eign, supreme, ooooh god! Burrito supreme, and a chicken supreme, and a CUTLASS SUPREME!" Tenacious D 2007

02-24-2008, 10:05 AM	#21 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Yes, thats my concern. I really don't know much about the history of this car axcept that an older person owned it.From that I'm just guessing that the cylinders have some carbon in them and thats whats causing the dieseling and read somewhere that Sea Foam clears that sort of thing. I know in the old Days my father used to take his cars on a (High Speed) highway run to "blow the carbon out" once in a while. Speeding tickets and insurance were cheaper back then though.

02-29-2008, 01:00 PM	#22 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Well, I sea foamed it.(1970 Ninety Eight) Had it sipping through the PCV hose from a cup. Turned it off. Waited 5 minutes. Started it up and no thick cloud of smoke. It didn't diesel when I turned it off though. Should I have used another vaccum hose? Or did it do It's job? I was expecting a big cloud and I did it today because It's cold as hell outside and my nieghbors would not get that shit in their houses with windows closed. The gas gauge worked for a while too ( I recently drained the old gas with a siphon) maybe that loosened the mechanichels in the sending unit. Any thought? Tom.

02-29-2008, 01:47 PM	#24 (permalink)
Pfiffle Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 117	Oh Boy! Didn't think that the sock may be gone. Good thought. Better drop the tank, you think?