Door locks inoperative 1980 Cutlass

Old March 26th, 2017, 06:59 PM
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Door locks inoperative 1980 Cutlass

Here’s the deal, 1980 cutlass 2 door v-6. Car has been sitting 2 years and I cannot gain entrance to the vehicle. The last time I had the door open I had to squeeze a coat hanger thru window trim and pull up on the door lock stem, that no longer works. The key does not move the door lock stem either way, lock or unlock, this is true for both the drivers and passenger sides. When I pull up on the outside door handle, I feel some pressure, so it seems to be engaged, but there is no clicking sound. I even strung a stiff copper wire thru the window trim and was able to loop it around the passenger inside door handle and pull with enough force to open the door, but even that failed, there was pressure but again no clicking. I tried to do the copper wire thing to the driver inside door handle, but because of the steering wheel never got it looped around the handle. It was tricky to string the wire thru on the passenger side but never succeeded on the driver’s side. I am not even sure the door is designed to open from the inside while it is locked. So here are the things I’ve tried so far:
1) lubricated both lock cylinders with 10w40 and worked key in and out back and forth to try and free the tumblers (did this many times).
2) Tried to remove the small decorative side window so I could roll the window down. No success seems that window needs to be removed from the inside.
3) Have considered fashioning some type of slim jim to slip down between the window trim near the lock stem and lock cylinder and push or pull on the proper connecting rod. One of my main obstacles is that I cannot find a mechanical drawing of the door lock and latch and connecting rod mechanisms to give me some idea of where things are located and how they operate.
4) Considered entering thru the trunk, but it looks very narrow, might be possible.
Any suggestions would really be appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
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Old March 27th, 2017, 06:29 AM
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If you can find someone that has much experience with a Slim Jim , they can probably be successful on one side or the other. There is a definite "art" to it's use ,and someone with experience can probably be in it within a minute without damage.
You might call a locksmith or Wrecker service and ask what the charges are and ask if he charges even if he fails to open it. Good luck ,Larry

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Old March 27th, 2017, 02:53 PM
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what about th elocal police ? ive heard they can assist in lockouts IDK for sure tho.

IIRC wasnt there tools like a spreader or spreader and airbag that allows easier access w the slimjim style tool ?
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Old March 27th, 2017, 03:27 PM
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First, welcome to the site... Second, call a lock smith... Many lock smith companies have people who are proficient with slim jims and the best way to use them... If you prefer to do it yourself, There are many different type lock tools available on the market, here is one example:

https://www.toolsource.com/lockout-t...c-p-78596.html
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Old March 28th, 2017, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CRUZN 66
First, welcome to the site... Second, call a lock smith... Many lock smith companies have people who are proficient with slim jims and the best way to use them... If you prefer to do it yourself, There are many different type lock tools available on the market, here is one example:

https://www.toolsource.com/lockout-t...c-p-78596.html
If anyone could provide an image or picture of the door lock and latch and connecting rod mechanisms to give me some idea of where things are located and how they operate I would then attempt entry with a tool.
I would like to thank everyone who posted their approach to my lock out problem. Each of you has given excellent advice .
-Pat-
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Old March 29th, 2017, 05:46 AM
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Smile Door lock

Hope this helps,if not, Google "door lock mechanism diagram for1980 Cutlass". Larry
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Old July 10th, 2017, 08:30 PM
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Ok motorheads I finally took the time to work on getting the door open, they are both stuck shut. I used a thin pliable piece of sheet metal in tandem with a coat hanger to manipulate the window crank up or down with little room to work between the top of the window and upper door frame. With some cussing and swearing the crank was moving as well as the window. It really was not bad!
Anyway I will be working on getting the doors and locks to work now that I can get inside the car! So I removed the upper panel and could see the door lock and handle rods. I read somewhere to soak the latch system with wd40. With a little inspection I could tell that the problem was the door lock rod connection at the latch. So after spraying a generous amount of wd40 on the door lock connection, the door lock **** started moving up and down and before I knew it the door handle clicked when I pulled it and open came the door. There is a new problem though, the lever that holds the door closed and opens the door which is part of the latch, moves freely and does hold the door shut. I can close the door, but it won’t latch. So the door could easily fly open. Does anyone know how to fix this or what part/parts might be needed?
Thanks,
-Patrick-
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Old July 11th, 2017, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by imcutlass
There is a new problem though, the lever that holds the door closed and opens the door which is part of the latch, moves freely and does hold the door shut. I can close the door, but it won’t latch. So the door could easily fly open. Does anyone know how to fix this or what part/parts might be needed?
Thanks,
-Patrick-
I read that if you wiggle the “claw” and work it back and forth after letting it soak for a while in penetrating fluid or WD40 it might free things up. So After letting a generous amount of WD40 soak into latch system overnight, particularly the locking rod connection at the latch; the door locks, latch, etc. are working as they should. I just tried different things and figured out how the claw worked in tandem with the door locked, pulling on the handle, etc. Eventually i had the mechanics figured out. Doors and locks are working, problem solved.
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