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Good evening - looking for a some info from you ragtop owners out there. I picked up a 68 442 convertible in December and am slowly getting the systems up and running following a 10 - 12 year hibernation. This is my first convertible, other than some friends cars or rentals I've driven.
First - any tricks or things to watch for when lowering/raising the top? A guy who came up to visit with me about the car when we were trailering it home mentioned something about having to make sure the glass rear window goes into the well the right way or it will break. The convertibles I've run have all been newer and all you do is hit the up/down button and it takes care of itself. Anything special I need to do or be aware of in raising or lowering it?
Second - I've run the top part way down and back up again just to see it work some. I notice that when changing directions, the motor runs for a few seconds (like 5 - 8) before the top starts to move in the new direction. Is this normal? I've looked at the cylinders, pumps, and lines and don't see any signs of leaks. Once the top starts to work, it does go up/down then. It has the same delay when starting in either direction after sitting a few days. I'm just wondering if there's a check valve or something that is allowing fluid to drain back when it's not supposed to.
Congrats. If there isn't a convertible top manual in the glovebox, I suggest you get one on line.
The glass window needs to be unzipped and stowed before lowering the top. The delay in movement is likely caused by low fluid. There is a reservoir built into the pump. which is in the trunk directly behind the back seat. There's a rubber plug that you pull out to fill. Use DOT3 brake fluid.
I would disagree with this info. Almost all glass tops don't have a zipper, and putting the top down with a glass window should present no problems at all. That's assuming there's nothing in the well or trunk that could break the window. The fluid is a tricky subject, but brake fluid is absolutely the last thing you want to put in it. It's old school, in the 50's + early 60's they used that, but stopped because it can absorb water and corrode systems, and because if a hose breaks and it sprays on your car....well...it's not a good thing! By 68...I think they were using a type of hydraulic fluid or trans fluid. Definitely right around that time it was changed to trans fluid. You really don't want to mix fluids w/o knowing, either. You have to do what Joe said...take out the plug and syringe some and try and figure out what it is. Sometimes you can see through the hoses to figure that out. Yup...get a book, too.
I agree with the above. There really is no way for the glass window to go into the well incorrectly, and the slow movement is likely low fluid level.
One thing I would recommend when lowering the top is stopping when the front part is in the vertical position and manipulating the top fabric at the bend areas so that the fabric folds and lays flat during the final lowering process. I think I may have read this in the owners manual, and it really helps the top fold correctly.
Agree, likely not brake fluid, but check first.
The top needs to be in the down position when filling the reservoir. Reason is this down position is when the most fluid is in the reservoir. Filling it in any other position can cause an overfill, when the top is then lowered there is no where for the excess fluid to go. Then if you are lucky it will just blow out the rubber fill plug found there sometimes and you have to clean up a mess. If you have a screw in plug as some have had you will blow something else up, maybe a line, same mess but then you spend more money on parts to fix.
Yes I found out the hard way, like so many lessons in life.
Thanks for the info and advice guys - I picked up an original GM 1968 convertible manual on ebay and it arrived today - some good info in it. I also found a piece in the service manual indicating the use of Type A ATF for the fluid, but I'll have to see what's in the system first it sounds like before adding anything and potentially mixing fluid types.
One more question - the lines to the cylinders are translucent white which allows me to see the darker colored fluid in the lines - would those be the original lines or newer replacements? I was expecting black hose from late 60's GM - more like brake lines.
Right...transmission fluid, but you still have to check some how even if it's a sniff + look test. Original lines were originally almost clear and you would be able to see the color through them. As they aged, they became less clear. They were never black originally. Replacement lines are more white than clear, but somewhat translucent.
February 6th, 2016, 09:10 PM
