1970 Olds 442 clone gets Gen IV 6.0L & 6 speed transmission
#41
Hey, while you have the engine out and front end in pieces.......
Just about everyone has interference between the inner tie rods ends and the oil pan. It's worse with the grease fittings that stick inward.
If you put a 1/4 fine thread allen plug in the grease fitting holes, then drill and tap the back or bottom of the end for new grease fittings, you'll eliminate a lot of that issue.
Just about everyone has interference between the inner tie rods ends and the oil pan. It's worse with the grease fittings that stick inward.
If you put a 1/4 fine thread allen plug in the grease fitting holes, then drill and tap the back or bottom of the end for new grease fittings, you'll eliminate a lot of that issue.
I'll have to take a closer look into this. I thought that's why you made
your 1/4" spacers in between the new mounts and motor plates??
So even after those spacers there's STILL an issue with the tie rods??
I have to rip apart the front end to send all my metal in for sandblasting
and powdercoating.
There's a few bolts I was having a hard time getting to at the moment to
release the front top metal piece (not the rad cover)
Aces,
That bare block with the heads and intake looks so cool. Interested in seeing the engine with all the stuff on the front/top of it. I think almost ALL V8s look so cool but they loose some of their 'muscle' image when they get all the stuff on them. I like to see the block, heads, headers, etc. The newer engines with EFI seem to suffer the most with all the stuff on the upper intake.
That bare block with the heads and intake looks so cool. Interested in seeing the engine with all the stuff on the front/top of it. I think almost ALL V8s look so cool but they loose some of their 'muscle' image when they get all the stuff on them. I like to see the block, heads, headers, etc. The newer engines with EFI seem to suffer the most with all the stuff on the upper intake.
I do agree with you, it does lose some of the classic muscle car engine look
outside of the engine bay. However, INSIDE the engine bay it you don't see
much of the front engine anyways.
This is what the end product will look like in the engine bay.
Last edited by Aceshigh; June 1st, 2011 at 04:58 PM.
#42
Since the engine is slightly offset, the tie rod clears in one direction, but barely hits the pan on the other side. That's without the grease fittings in their original location.
It's a 15 minute fix with everything out, so do it now.
It's a 15 minute fix with everything out, so do it now.
#43
@Gary 68, do you have any pics of this fix looks like i'm headed down this road also and i've already got my motor out. Might as well get prepared for it now since im cleaning up the engine bay first.
#44
Since I only discovered the issue after everything was together, I only have the allen plugs in now.
#45
re
Thanks for the heads up.
I'll have to take a closer look into this. I thought that's why you made
your 1/4" spacers in between the new mounts and motor plates??
So even after those spacers there's STILL an issue with the tie rods??
I have to rip apart the front end to send all my metal in for sandblasting
and powdercoating.
There's a few bolts I was having a hard time getting to at the moment to
release the front top metal piece (not the rad cover)
Looks awesome all cleaned up like a regular V8 right??
I do agree with you, it does lose some of the classic muscle car engine look
outside of the engine bay. However, INSIDE the engine bay it you don't see
much of the front engine anyways.
This is what the end product will look like in the engine bay.
I'll have to take a closer look into this. I thought that's why you made
your 1/4" spacers in between the new mounts and motor plates??
So even after those spacers there's STILL an issue with the tie rods??
I have to rip apart the front end to send all my metal in for sandblasting
and powdercoating.
There's a few bolts I was having a hard time getting to at the moment to
release the front top metal piece (not the rad cover)
Looks awesome all cleaned up like a regular V8 right??
I do agree with you, it does lose some of the classic muscle car engine look
outside of the engine bay. However, INSIDE the engine bay it you don't see
much of the front engine anyways.
This is what the end product will look like in the engine bay.
Aces,
what do you think of the lq9?if you could have gotten either for the same price,which one would you have chosen and why?Dont be biased.
#46
I can see this will go in circles , so I'll answer it like this.
The Gen III 5.3L , and 6.0L LQ4 and LQ9 are all good motors.
End goal and budget is what you have to go by to decide which to buy.
My goal and budget is my own, so I chose a newer Gen IV engine.
I already own a Gen III LS1. I would prefer an LS9 with 638hp SC'd.
However, my budget doesn't allow for a $22,000 barebones engine.
Choose what you can afford, and that meets your desired end goal.
My goal is to twin turbo my 442 eventually......so I wanted the best
heads I could buy for head flow #'s. (see comparison below)
A 600-700hp 6 speed pro-touring DD cruiser that gets over 22-25mpg
highway is my goal. Somewhat of an impossible feat with classic engines.
Read.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Vort...neration_III_2
LQ9 = 345hp and heads flow (Source)
Here's the stock 317 port:
Lift......Int...........Exh
.100" ..64.8........53.3
.200"..142.1.......111.6
.300"..204.3.......146.8
.400"..233.5.......164.9
.500"..250.0.......174.2
.550"..251.2.......181.2
.600"..253.0.......184.4
LY6 = 385hp and heads flow (Source)
Here's the stock L92 port
4.030” test bore
Lift ___.100 _.150_.200_.250_.300 _.350 _.400 _.450 _.500 _.550 _.600 _.650_.700_.750
#1 Int. 74.9 109.4 154.4 193.5 225.3 252.8 274.6 292.7 308.8 321.0 328.7 326.6 310.0 316.6
#1 Exh. 63.6 97.9 126.1 148.7 162.3 178.6 189.6 197.6 205.5 210.7 214.6 217.8 221.2 223.5
The Gen III 5.3L , and 6.0L LQ4 and LQ9 are all good motors.
End goal and budget is what you have to go by to decide which to buy.
My goal and budget is my own, so I chose a newer Gen IV engine.
I already own a Gen III LS1. I would prefer an LS9 with 638hp SC'd.
However, my budget doesn't allow for a $22,000 barebones engine.
Choose what you can afford, and that meets your desired end goal.
My goal is to twin turbo my 442 eventually......so I wanted the best
heads I could buy for head flow #'s. (see comparison below)
A 600-700hp 6 speed pro-touring DD cruiser that gets over 22-25mpg
highway is my goal. Somewhat of an impossible feat with classic engines.
if you could have gotten either for the same price,which one would you have chosen and why?Dont be biased.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Vort...neration_III_2
LQ9 = 345hp and heads flow (Source)
Here's the stock 317 port:
Lift......Int...........Exh
.100" ..64.8........53.3
.200"..142.1.......111.6
.300"..204.3.......146.8
.400"..233.5.......164.9
.500"..250.0.......174.2
.550"..251.2.......181.2
.600"..253.0.......184.4
LY6 = 385hp and heads flow (Source)
Here's the stock L92 port
4.030” test bore
Lift ___.100 _.150_.200_.250_.300 _.350 _.400 _.450 _.500 _.550 _.600 _.650_.700_.750
#1 Int. 74.9 109.4 154.4 193.5 225.3 252.8 274.6 292.7 308.8 321.0 328.7 326.6 310.0 316.6
#1 Exh. 63.6 97.9 126.1 148.7 162.3 178.6 189.6 197.6 205.5 210.7 214.6 217.8 221.2 223.5
Last edited by Aceshigh; June 3rd, 2011 at 07:30 PM.
#47
Looks great so far Aces. Keep the pics coming!
BTW, I know what you mean about the versatility of todays LS engines. I was thumping out over 400 at the rear wheels of my 01 Z28.. It was an absolute blast to drive. Scared the crap out of my wife when I floored it!
BTW, I know what you mean about the versatility of todays LS engines. I was thumping out over 400 at the rear wheels of my 01 Z28.. It was an absolute blast to drive. Scared the crap out of my wife when I floored it!
#49
Well, can't please them all but keep the updates rolling in, i check LS1tech.com for A-body swaps also but i'm mostly viewing CO. Any GM Muscle car remake would be getting an LS3 or better, LAME could be reading 47 post of something you don't like! Lets respect an owners decision to do what he wants with his car!
#51
I do agree, almost any modern GM muscle car would be LSX powered.
I'm stuck figuring out my motor mounts right now, then I'll post pics.
Thanks.
Just power washed my engine bay, and painting it in the meantime.
Core support is getting yanked next for SB and Powdercoating.
#54
Give's true meaning to the term "Gutless Cutlass".
I wish I'd have done this much on my Camaro's LSX install.
I still gotta rip out the booster, master and prop valve.
Rerouting all new lines I think.....
Gary, on the drivers side SBC motor mount, only 2 holes line up
with existing holes. Did you have to drill out a 3rd hole ??
I'm assuming I won't get all 4 holes lined up due to the way these
sit on the K-member.
I wish I'd have done this much on my Camaro's LSX install.
I still gotta rip out the booster, master and prop valve.
Rerouting all new lines I think.....
Gary, on the drivers side SBC motor mount, only 2 holes line up
with existing holes. Did you have to drill out a 3rd hole ??
I'm assuming I won't get all 4 holes lined up due to the way these
sit on the K-member.
#56
Hey, real quick, do you remember which pulley you swapped onto your
power steering to clear the steering box ?? I tried a 5.5" GM pulley part #
today that someone posted on LS1tech, and it wouldn't go down far enough....
I ended up mangling it taking it off so I'm out $34 for that lesson learned.
I'm debating just picking up the Ford pulley because I know it works.
I saw you swapped your bolts in a thread somewhere you posted for clearance.
But can't remember what thread on LS1tech I saw that in....
100% positive.
I drove to Tamraz auto parts in Plainfield and picked them up last week.
One has a red label and the other has a blue label, RH and LH.
One has an extra hole in it. Not sure maybe my K-member didn't have
all the holes pre-drilled out. I can snap a pic tomorrow to show you.
power steering to clear the steering box ?? I tried a 5.5" GM pulley part #
today that someone posted on LS1tech, and it wouldn't go down far enough....
I ended up mangling it taking it off so I'm out $34 for that lesson learned.
I'm debating just picking up the Ford pulley because I know it works.
I saw you swapped your bolts in a thread somewhere you posted for clearance.
But can't remember what thread on LS1tech I saw that in....
I drove to Tamraz auto parts in Plainfield and picked them up last week.
One has a red label and the other has a blue label, RH and LH.
One has an extra hole in it. Not sure maybe my K-member didn't have
all the holes pre-drilled out. I can snap a pic tomorrow to show you.
Last edited by Aceshigh; June 19th, 2011 at 08:12 PM.
#57
nice job so far man. Love the T-56 Tranny, have it in my caprice . might i make a suggestion for it if it will work and get the short throw shifter from MGW
Short Throw Shifter link
Short Throw Shifter link
#58
Thanks,
I do believe I got a short throw shifter with my T-56 purchase.
But if I'm wrong, I'll definitely look into that.
I gotta find out where guys are getting their round circular bases they
are welding into place after they put in the new trans tunnels.
I do believe I got a short throw shifter with my T-56 purchase.
But if I'm wrong, I'll definitely look into that.
I gotta find out where guys are getting their round circular bases they
are welding into place after they put in the new trans tunnels.
#59
Dorman pulley #300-201, $14 at autozone. It needs to be pressed on past the shaft snout for the truck spacing. I used some 0.2" spacers between the pump and bracket to minimize the amount it had to be pressed on. In the end, I still had to use a female/female pipe union to press it past the shaft end. I also used allen head rounded bolts for better pulley clearance.
And btw, all 4 bolt holes in the frame mounts lined up to the holes in my crossmember. I would drill the crossmember to use 4 bolts. With the way the mounts hang off the front, I suspect all 4 are needed.
Pics of my frame mounts and pulley installation.
DSCN0198.jpg
DSCN0230.jpg
DSCN0231.jpg
And btw, all 4 bolt holes in the frame mounts lined up to the holes in my crossmember. I would drill the crossmember to use 4 bolts. With the way the mounts hang off the front, I suspect all 4 are needed.
Pics of my frame mounts and pulley installation.
DSCN0198.jpg
DSCN0230.jpg
DSCN0231.jpg
Last edited by garys 68; June 20th, 2011 at 02:06 AM.
#61
ok , I know I can be a jerk at times , but really???? even if a thread is not quite where it should be , I really dont think you need to go to that extreme....just dont click on the thread and read it then.....I also realize that this subject has already been gone through a million times and I probably dont have a leg to stand on with this , but come on....I would think that all would be welcome here.
#62
Okay, so I just got back from 2 parts stores.
GM Part #12607307 is the same exact pulley as Dorman 300-201
I measured width, height, and mounting depth.
5 5/16"Width x 1 7/16"height x 6/8" rear depth
I couldn't get it to work, so I'm going to seek out another option.
Go figure, there was the EXACT Ford pulley I needed in that LS1tech thread
listed on Ebay for a FRIGGIN WEEK!!!! I just saw it yesterday and it was sold.
Discontinued by Ford and no replacement part # made.
Haters live among us. That's about all I can really say.
GM Part #12607307 is the same exact pulley as Dorman 300-201
I measured width, height, and mounting depth.
5 5/16"Width x 1 7/16"height x 6/8" rear depth
I couldn't get it to work, so I'm going to seek out another option.
Go figure, there was the EXACT Ford pulley I needed in that LS1tech thread
listed on Ebay for a FRIGGIN WEEK!!!! I just saw it yesterday and it was sold.
Discontinued by Ford and no replacement part # made.
Haters live among us. That's about all I can really say.
Last edited by Aceshigh; June 20th, 2011 at 03:38 PM.
#63
Where is the interference problem with the pulley?
I originally got the Dorman 300-123 from the LS1tech thread, but it would not fit. It's the same size but contoured differently than the 300-201.
I originally got the Dorman 300-123 from the LS1tech thread, but it would not fit. It's the same size but contoured differently than the 300-201.
#64
Oldsmobile didnt make a modern truck or i would own one. Just taking one back.
Im a member on 67-72chevy trucks. But i didnt go to that site and start a build thread on "Olds moto into a chevy truck". I just did it. I know most guys there wouldnt like it. Wasnt the place for it. Just like how i feel this isnt the place for ls swap into a Cutlass.
This is a place for Olds guys to talk Olds. I know that most members here dont like and are not into this kind of stuff. To guys who "really" love Oldsmobiles, doing this is like pouring salt in an open wound.
#65
It has to be 9/16" spaced from the wall of the accessory bracket.
I could only get it pressed in to roughly 10.5/16" down and grounded
out the back of the pulley against the shaft base. Then it wouldn't turn.
I'm guessing you're not mounted as deep as the original pulley was,
but you're not having any isses with it being slightly off ?
I just ordered Dorman #300-029 because it says it's designed for the F-150's
with the 4.9L 6cylinder. I'm hoping it's the right pulley to match the discontinued
Ford E-150 pulley in the LS1tech threads.
I could only get it pressed in to roughly 10.5/16" down and grounded
out the back of the pulley against the shaft base. Then it wouldn't turn.
I'm guessing you're not mounted as deep as the original pulley was,
but you're not having any isses with it being slightly off ?
I just ordered Dorman #300-029 because it says it's designed for the F-150's
with the 4.9L 6cylinder. I'm hoping it's the right pulley to match the discontinued
Ford E-150 pulley in the LS1tech threads.
Last edited by Aceshigh; June 21st, 2011 at 07:25 AM.
#66
Mine is aligned correctly and didn't bottom out.
I am running 3 0.2" spacers on the bolts between the pump housing and bracket. That effectively move the pump base back so the pulley doesn't bottom out.
I am running 3 0.2" spacers on the bolts between the pump housing and bracket. That effectively move the pump base back so the pulley doesn't bottom out.
#67
You know what ??? I just now realized by your picture.....that will work.
I thought the BASE around the shaft was part of the accessory bracket.
I'll have to look at it again. God I feel like a dumba** now. LMAO
Last edited by Aceshigh; June 21st, 2011 at 09:21 PM.
#69
Engine is ready.
LS7 clutch / flywheel installed, F-body pan, front accessories, Ford PS Pulley.
I learned that the GTO LS2 flywheel isn't an LS2 flywheel.
It's really an LS1/6 flyweel so I wasted some loot buying one used. Oh well.
Got my Monte Carlo SS DBW pedal with my EFI connection plug.
Shipped out the harness today to www.lsx-harness.com for mods.
Got my master for the clutch, still gotta buy the new pedals from The Parts Place.
Those are NOT easy to get to under the dash......that blows.
Just gotta get a plasma cutter and prep the tunnel for my T-56 6 speed.
Then I gotta do the new fuel lines. Still debating what connectors to use.
I have no idea when I'll have it done, but I'm pretty close once I rip the
interior out and get the engine & T-56 6 speed trans mounted.
ONLY Area of concern presently is the F-body pan might be too long (fr to rear)
for me to keep my frame mounts in that same position you have them.
2011Clutchpics10800x600.jpg
That's awesome. You're totally diggin it I'm sure.
Any regrets ?? (doubt it)
I'm really curious what your MPG will end up being. I forget what trans you put in. 4L60e ??
Glad to see you didn't have any issues with the accessory tilt from the spacers on the PS pump.
LS7 clutch / flywheel installed, F-body pan, front accessories, Ford PS Pulley.
I learned that the GTO LS2 flywheel isn't an LS2 flywheel.
It's really an LS1/6 flyweel so I wasted some loot buying one used. Oh well.
Got my Monte Carlo SS DBW pedal with my EFI connection plug.
Shipped out the harness today to www.lsx-harness.com for mods.
Got my master for the clutch, still gotta buy the new pedals from The Parts Place.
Those are NOT easy to get to under the dash......that blows.
Just gotta get a plasma cutter and prep the tunnel for my T-56 6 speed.
Then I gotta do the new fuel lines. Still debating what connectors to use.
I have no idea when I'll have it done, but I'm pretty close once I rip the
interior out and get the engine & T-56 6 speed trans mounted.
ONLY Area of concern presently is the F-body pan might be too long (fr to rear)
for me to keep my frame mounts in that same position you have them.
2011Clutchpics10800x600.jpg
That's awesome. You're totally diggin it I'm sure.
Any regrets ?? (doubt it)
I'm really curious what your MPG will end up being. I forget what trans you put in. 4L60e ??
Glad to see you didn't have any issues with the accessory tilt from the spacers on the PS pump.
Last edited by Aceshigh; July 18th, 2011 at 09:17 PM.
#70
I'm still running the Muncie wit 2.73 rear. Averaging about 23mpg. Only regret is no OD trans, but wasn't in the budget.
I used 3 0.2" spacers between the pump and truck bracket. It moves the pump directly back, no tilt what so ever. Only other mod was clearancing the bracket on the back that bolts to the block.
I'm not sure the spacers were required for the pulley I used to clear the pumps snout. But I realized if I pushed the pulley too far on, without the spacers, I might not be able to reach it with the removal tool.
I used 3 0.2" spacers between the pump and truck bracket. It moves the pump directly back, no tilt what so ever. Only other mod was clearancing the bracket on the back that bolts to the block.
I'm not sure the spacers were required for the pulley I used to clear the pumps snout. But I realized if I pushed the pulley too far on, without the spacers, I might not be able to reach it with the removal tool.
Last edited by garys 68; July 19th, 2011 at 01:02 AM.
#71
That's some pretty tall gears. Should be great for highway MPG.
Later down the road you could get some deeper gears and an Overdrive
to gain more holeshot power.
I'm not sure how you got around that rear bracket to avoid tilt , but if you did
you might want to let the guys on LS1tech know in that thread. I couldn't
see a way to avoid it myself.
I just put the Ford E150 pulley on mine after trashing the Dorman pulley.
I also got my Jeep steering box off a 98 Grand Cherokee.
Later down the road you could get some deeper gears and an Overdrive
to gain more holeshot power.
you might want to let the guys on LS1tech know in that thread. I couldn't
see a way to avoid it myself.
I just put the Ford E150 pulley on mine after trashing the Dorman pulley.
I also got my Jeep steering box off a 98 Grand Cherokee.
Last edited by Aceshigh; July 19th, 2011 at 03:14 AM.
#72
I'm not even sure if the rear mount is required, the 3 front mounts on the bracket is pretty stout. But it's just an L shaped bracket that bolts to a boss in the block. I just elongated the brackets block mount hole forward. The ford pulley was too hard to find for me. No salvage yars within an hour of me.
Agreed on the gears, a 5 speed with 3.0+ first and about a 0.75 OD would be perfect. So keeping my eyes open for a T5.
Agreed on the gears, a 5 speed with 3.0+ first and about a 0.75 OD would be perfect. So keeping my eyes open for a T5.
#73
Not sure how familiar you are with those, but the weak 80's pony cars came with them and so did V6 4th gen Camaro's.
They're inherently a weak medium duty trans with no strength upgrades I've read.
Just something to be aware of unless you've found stronger upgrades for it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Wa...5_transmission
The next gen was the T-56 from Borg Warner which was stronger.
Being that the Olds is a large and heavy car with a 300+hp motor in it now, I'd consider that.
They're inherently a weak medium duty trans with no strength upgrades I've read.
Just something to be aware of unless you've found stronger upgrades for it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Wa...5_transmission
The next gen was the T-56 from Borg Warner which was stronger.
Being that the Olds is a large and heavy car with a 300+hp motor in it now, I'd consider that.
#74
I'm well aware of the weak T5s. 88-91 V8 camaros are probably the strongest, but I dont plan on driving it hard. And hey, they're cheap.
It's just hard to find an OD trans with around a 0.75 OD. No way a 2.73 rear will work with a 0.63 OD.
And you're going to love the jeep box swap. It no longer feels like driving a school bus.
It's just hard to find an OD trans with around a 0.75 OD. No way a 2.73 rear will work with a 0.63 OD.
And you're going to love the jeep box swap. It no longer feels like driving a school bus.
Last edited by garys 68; July 22nd, 2011 at 10:32 AM.
#75
Ah.....I gotcha. So you're keeping your rear gear. Cool.
I hope mine works!!!!
My steering was awesome before, and smooth.
I'm going to have to throw up the steering box for sale to see if it will actually sell.
My steering was awesome before, and smooth.
I'm going to have to throw up the steering box for sale to see if it will actually sell.
#76
Yeah, but even if I switched rear ends, I've already got the interior in and dont want to cut the tunnel. That only leaves maybe a Keisler RS500 or another Richmond. And I've heard the Keislers are about a year on back order.
BTW, keep the updates coming. Mine, with the little engine and muncie, is just too much fun not to drive every day. Yours is going to really fly.
BTW, keep the updates coming. Mine, with the little engine and muncie, is just too much fun not to drive every day. Yours is going to really fly.
#78
#79
I dont want to hijack this thread, but mine was a budget build that came with the 2.73 and muncie. That actually works out well for a DD (gas milage), and it's still A LOT of fun to drive.
If I want to tear up tires, I've still got my 68 corvette convertible with a 6.0 LS motor.
Oh yeah, and if I ever get bored, how about an over 500hp and torque bolt on and still 20+ mpg. Plenty of room in that engine compartment.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...252/index.html
If I want to tear up tires, I've still got my 68 corvette convertible with a 6.0 LS motor.
Oh yeah, and if I ever get bored, how about an over 500hp and torque bolt on and still 20+ mpg. Plenty of room in that engine compartment.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...252/index.html
Last edited by garys 68; July 27th, 2011 at 02:33 PM.
#80
Aces,
I apologize for closing your thread so abruptly. I received some PMs indicating how popular this thread was for some members and was reminded of the effort you have put into your project and this thread. I have re-opened the thread for member participation.
Everyone please keep this thread civil.
I apologize for closing your thread so abruptly. I received some PMs indicating how popular this thread was for some members and was reminded of the effort you have put into your project and this thread. I have re-opened the thread for member participation.
Everyone please keep this thread civil.