new to the site
#1
new to the site
I am the hunt for a 1970 442 so I joined the site to get some info on the car. Back in the day, 2 of my first 3 cars were Cutlass convertibles. They are long gone but I always wanted another one. I am impressed with the wealth of knowledge that is available on this site and I hope I can contribute some day as well. I have a couple of prospects and I hope that that they turn into my 3rd one.
Kevin
Galena, Il
Kevin
Galena, Il
#4
Garage find 1970 442
Well I found a 1970 442 that's been sitting around for a few years, like 25. It looks solid but I can't tell if those are rust holes and a ripped vinyl top or just dirt. I don't have any details on the options but it looks like a pretty basic 442. I guess I will know more this weekend when I go look at it. More pics after I get back.
Kev
Kev
#5
Cool, I hope it works out. I can never find those tucked away's anymore.
At least it is a bucket console car, bonus. How much is he asking, if I can be so bold?
That driver side window looks like it has been rolled halfway down for 20 yrs anyway, wow.
If the engine hasn't been molested, it should have a 455 w/E heads and non-EGR intake.
At least it is a bucket console car, bonus. How much is he asking, if I can be so bold?
That driver side window looks like it has been rolled halfway down for 20 yrs anyway, wow.
If the engine hasn't been molested, it should have a 455 w/E heads and non-EGR intake.
Last edited by tru-blue 442; March 3rd, 2015 at 05:04 PM.
#8
Sorry, but there is no where near enough info to come up with a price on my part. You don't even know if it runs and what it may need. Or what may or may not have been done to it in the past, etc.
#15
Welcome. I think the best things to keep in mind when purchasing a project is what is the end cost. Also what do you want the car to be? A driver you enjoy often and don't worry about minor wear and tear so much or a show queen. Or something in between. I have found if patient you can find one that is a driver grade car sometimes for much less, or the same price as a fixer upper and get to enjoy it while you do things to make it your own. Rot is a huge issue and can cost an overwhelming amount to correct. Sometimes it is cheaper to purchase a car for more money than you think up front and not have the expense of body panel replacement to tackle.
My advise is always, It is your car make it what you want. Not what anyone else wants.
Just some thoughts. I hope you find what you are looking for. There is allot of wisdom on this site just ask for info and many will help you. Some really great people here.
Larry
My advise is always, It is your car make it what you want. Not what anyone else wants.
Just some thoughts. I hope you find what you are looking for. There is allot of wisdom on this site just ask for info and many will help you. Some really great people here.
Larry
#16
I bought the 1970 442 this weekend and it gets shipped home tomorrow. There is a couple of places of surface rust and one 2 inch hole on the quarter panel behind the right rear wheel. Other than that the car is solid. The interior was a bit dried out but all there. The vinyl top looks good. The engine is original but the engine compartment was filled with mouse stuff. After replacing all 4 tires with new ones, the car rolled and the brakes worked. The car was last tagged in 1983. The only problem we had was 2 stripped locking lug nuts and I had to cut them off. Looking forward to getting this car up and running.
Last edited by kcd7660; March 9th, 2015 at 05:22 PM. Reason: pics are now attached
#23
Kevin you found a great car. Congratulations to you, I hope it all works out for you.
Change all the soft fuel lines first, and flush the tank, and replace the sending unit. Be sure to look for your build sheet on top of the tank.
Change all the soft fuel lines first, and flush the tank, and replace the sending unit. Be sure to look for your build sheet on top of the tank.
#24
Not running but she sure cleaned up nice
Before and after cleaning: I have no idea why the 2nd picture is upside down. It did not start out that way.
Last edited by kcd7660; March 13th, 2015 at 05:01 PM.
#27
The motor is seized so the cylinders are soaking in pb blaster for the weekend. We'll try moving it on Monday. The last time the car was tagged was back in 1983 so the engine being a stuck after 32 years of sitting doesn't surprise me too much. The oil was a little sludgy but no water. I have a few more pics after the wash. Attached.
Last edited by kcd7660; March 14th, 2015 at 03:18 AM.
#28
#29
The motor has been unseized after a pb blaster soak. It now turns freely. Plugs, wires, fluid flush, and a new battery to be changed out by tomorrow and then an attempt to start it after sitting idle for 32 years. I am freaking stoked.
#30
My 69 442 sat in a field for 32 yrs. A little fiddling, and she roared to life.
Didn't hurt the old man had just given it a fresh overhaul before parking it.
The thing still had a full radiator of green antifreeze. Check the mice nests
and nuts and other sh*t that will fly out the tail pipes. Pretty cool.
I'm stoked for you. Spin it over a minute or so with out the coil wire. Good luck.
Didn't hurt the old man had just given it a fresh overhaul before parking it.
The thing still had a full radiator of green antifreeze. Check the mice nests
and nuts and other sh*t that will fly out the tail pipes. Pretty cool.
I'm stoked for you. Spin it over a minute or so with out the coil wire. Good luck.
#31
#34
I just put new shocks, coils, and brakes on the car. Drives pretty smooth. I also ran a compression check on the cylinders because it was running a little rough. Turns out the lowest reading was 55 psi and the other 7 were between 85 and 100 psi. Not good. I guess sitting for so long seized up caused some compression issues. I did change out the oil to lighter weight synthetic hoping this will free up rings some more but I am not going to hold my breath. Short of a rebuild, are there any good old mechanic tricks to get the compression back after a 32 year nap?
kcd.
kcd.
#35
Raise the idle to about 2500 rpm and dribble a 16oz glass of water down the carb a couple of times. Just enough of a dribble to not stall the engine. Drain a qt of oil out and add a qt of rislone engine treatment and drive it for about 200 miles, then change the oil.
#37
The water/vapors from it help breakup any carbon build up on the pistons and in the chamber. You may also want to soak the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil. It helps unstick rings whihc is probably why the compresison reading were low. Also add a qt of it to your fuel and oil to help clean up the inside of engine. I use it on old motorcycles that have been sitting. Nice little gem you found there. Where was the car located that he shipping was $1100?
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