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Old September 10th, 2010, 02:56 AM   #1
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Heater/Blower Motor Relay Assembly

Can someone tell me where the blower motor relay is located at?I'm having a problem with the high on my blower. The setting for low and med work but i get nothing went switched to high!


Parts #TR15885

Thanks in Advance
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Old September 10th, 2010, 05:05 AM   #2
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If this is for your 72 Cutlass, the relay will be over the brake booster.
There should be a thick wire going to the junction block with an inline fuse holder - check those before replacing the relay. If there are splices in the wiring, they better be in good shape and be soldered. If the fuse holder was bypassed, replace it.

With engine off, key in RUN, switch from med-high to high and you should hear a click from the relay.

See what you get...
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Old September 10th, 2010, 08:27 AM   #3
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welcome to CO.
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Old September 21st, 2010, 04:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71 View Post
If this is for your 72 Cutlass, the relay will be over the brake booster.
There should be a thick wire going to the junction block with an inline fuse holder - check those before replacing the relay. If there are splices in the wiring, they better be in good shape and be soldered. If the fuse holder was bypassed, replace it.

With engine off, key in RUN, switch from med-high to high and you should hear a click from the relay.

See what you get...
Thanks Lady72nRob71 I have checked the relay as you mention above and hear the click when moving from med to high on the heater switch!Doe this mean the relay is bad or good?Still nothing on high also the wires look non-raped and i don't see any inline fuse at all when i traced the wire back!
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Old September 21st, 2010, 04:26 AM   #5
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It was the high blower speed inline fuse when I had the same problem.
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Old September 21st, 2010, 05:15 AM   #6
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it was the high blower speed inline fuse when i had the same problem.
x 2
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Old September 21st, 2010, 05:26 AM   #7
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The coil of the relay is good, as well as the dash switch.
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)

Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/
Lady's interior makeover Rally Pac stuff
Front end job Underhood resto
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1978 Ford Pinto (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" - in the family since new.
1997 Cadillac STS
1999 Harley-Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"
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Old September 23rd, 2010, 02:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71 View Post
The coil of the relay is good, as well as the dash switch.
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)

Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...

That did the trick guys thanks.....but now setting mid high i get nothing every other setting works.I even replaced the relay!This is really starting to get on my nerves!
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Old September 23rd, 2010, 02:56 AM   #9
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That did the trick guys thanks.....but now setting mid high i get nothing every other setting works.I even replaced the relay!This is really starting to get on my nerves!

You didn't loose any of the smoke out of the switch or relay did you?
The resident Classic Oldsmobile electrical experts say that once that happens they're shot.

Fuses are about as deep as I go.
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Old September 23rd, 2010, 03:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71 View Post
The coil of the relay is good, as well as the dash switch.
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)

Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevista View Post

You didn't loose any of the smoke out of the switch or relay did you?
The resident Classic Oldsmobile electrical experts say that once that happens they're shot.

Nope not a spark! Since you mentioned smoke I think I'll drink a beer and have a smoke on this one!

Fuses are about as deep as I go.
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Old September 23rd, 2010, 05:39 AM   #11
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That did the trick guys thanks.....but now setting mid high i get nothing every other setting works.I even replaced the relay!This is really starting to get on my nerves!
Time to pull out and check the blower resistor, in the eng comptmt on the side of the evaporator case. Should have about 4 wires plugged into it. Sounds like the med-high coil may be open. It will be obvious if so.
It is a little tricky to get to but possible.
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1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible- (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/
Lady's interior makeover Rally Pac stuff
Front end job Underhood resto
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1978 Ford Pinto (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" - in the family since new.
1997 Cadillac STS
1999 Harley-Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"
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Old August 1st, 2014, 12:15 PM   #12
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Rob,

I know this is an older thread but I'm hoping you can help.

I have the same prob as Boh2k. Blower works on 3 low speeds but nothing on high. When switching from med to high the relay by the PB booster clicks. So far, so good

So I've found the in line fuse. Now for the big question: How do I get the in-line fuse holder apart so I can check the fuse. So far I've remain calm, but I'm out of ideas.

Thanks.
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Old August 1st, 2014, 03:32 PM   #13
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What model/year is this car? I just had the same thing happen on my '73 Custom Cruiser. The three lowest fan speeds work, but the highest doesn't.

Have you done the troubleshooting check in the service manual? Does your car have a rear window defogger? If the answer to the latter question is yes and you haven't done the troubleshooting checks in the manual, don't automatically assume that the problem is the fuse. I ran through the troubleshooting sequence for my car, and it's the same for Cutlass for 1973, and the problem points to a failed relay, not a failed fuse. In my case, it was the "hi-blower cutout relay" that failed. I've just ordered a replacement, and it won't be until after I get that and put it in that I'll know for sure if this was the problem.

There is a separate blower motor troubleshooting section in the '73 manual for cars that have both a manual A/C system (not Comfortron) and a rear window defogger.
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Old August 1st, 2014, 04:49 PM   #14
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What model/year is this car? I just had the same thing happen on my '73 Custom Cruiser. The three lowest fan speeds work, but the highest doesn't.

Have you done the troubleshooting check in the service manual? Does your car have a rear window defogger? If the answer to the latter question is yes and you haven't done the troubleshooting checks in the manual, don't automatically assume that the problem is the fuse. I ran through the troubleshooting sequence for my car, and it's the same for Cutlass for 1973, and the problem points to a failed relay, not a failed fuse. In my case, it was the "hi-blower cutout relay" that failed. I've just ordered a replacement, and it won't be until after I get that and put it in that I'll know for sure if this was the problem.

There is a separate blower motor troubleshooting section in the '73 manual for cars that have both a manual A/C system (not Comfortron) and a rear window defogger.
72 Cutlass convert, with A/C, no rear defogger of course.

I did do some trouble shooting (switch OK, resister OK, the hi speed relay by the brake booster makes a click when switching to high speed).

Soooo... low and behold when I finally got the in-line fuse holder apart (without loosing my patients I might add) it was defunct. Put in a new 30amp and BooYah, blowin on high speed.

Thanks for your input anyway. If it wasn't the fuse I was goin your route with the relay replacement
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Old August 1st, 2014, 06:22 PM   #15
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Soooo... low and behold when I finally got the in-line fuse holder apart (without loosing my patients I might add) it was defunct. Put in a new 30amp and BooYah, blowin on high speed.
Glad you got it...
Sounds like it was just stuck together. Just make sure the holder was not melted, burned or had its contacts pitted. If you, the holder would need repair or replacement depending on condition.
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1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible- (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/
Lady's interior makeover Rally Pac stuff
Front end job Underhood resto
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1978 Ford Pinto (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" - in the family since new.
1997 Cadillac STS
1999 Harley-Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"
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Old August 5th, 2014, 08:01 PM   #16
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Hey all, I'm glad I found this thread because I'm in the same boat. I replaced all the wiring in my 70 Cutlass S and there was no fuse in that in-line holder. The Chassis Service Manual says "30 amp fuse" but doesn't specify a part number. I've tried the ones I can find at the parts store (AGC30, SFE30) but they're too long. What fuse goes in there?
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Old August 6th, 2014, 06:47 PM   #17
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Hey all, I'm glad I found this thread because I'm in the same boat. I replaced all the wiring in my 70 Cutlass S and there was no fuse in that in-line holder. The Chassis Service Manual says "30 amp fuse" but doesn't specify a part number. I've tried the ones I can find at the parts store (AGC30, SFE30) but they're too long. What fuse goes in there?
Oskar,

Glad you found the thread helpful. The guys on Classic Oldsmobile are amazing. The in-line fuse was the problem with mine and I was ready to replace a hole buncha stuff.

Anyway, the fuse you need is an AGA 30 amp (I think it's the shortest fuse you can buy). I bought mine at PepBoys in am assortment of AGA fuses.
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Old August 6th, 2014, 09:32 PM   #18
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Oskar,

Glad you found the thread helpful. The guys on Classic Oldsmobile are amazing. The in-line fuse was the problem with mine and I was ready to replace a hole buncha stuff.

Anyway, the fuse you need is an AGA 30 amp (I think it's the shortest fuse you can buy). I bought mine at PepBoys in am assortment of AGA fuses.
Thanks FlyBoy! After I wrote that post I pulled apart the original wire harness (which fortunately I saved) and found an AGA-30 fuse in the old in-line holder. I went out and bought a new one today, put it in the new harness in the car, and now the fan works fine.

I also went back and looked through the Chassis Service Manual again. I did find the fuse type specified in the Air Conditioning section (not the Electrical section where I had been looking), but it specified an AGC-30. Oh well...
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Old August 6th, 2014, 09:32 PM
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